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Looking at the succulent plant on the windowsill, its stems are long and thin, and its leaves are sparse, completely losing their original compact and full appearance; another pot has too many branches, making it look messy and disorganized — it's time to give them a “haircut.” But when you pick up the scissors, you hesitate: where should you start? What if you cut it wrong? In fact, pruning is an important way to keep succulents healthy and attractive, much like “shaping and toning” for plants. It not only makes the plant more aesthetically pleasing but also promotes growth. Today, we’ll guide you step-by-step on how to prune succulents, from determining the right timing to the actual process, making it easy for beginners to master.  Why prune succulents? These benefits will tell you the answer.  Pruning is not “harmful” to succulents but rather a “boost,” with the following main benefits:  Shaping an aesthetically pleasing form: Trimming excessively long stems and overly dense branches helps succulents maintain a compact, symmetrical shape, enhancing their ornamental value.  Promoting branching growth: Removing the top branches stimulates the base to sprout new side branches, transforming the succulent from a “single stem” into a “clump,” making it more full and lush.  Removing diseased or weak tissue: Timely removal of rotting or wilted leaves and branches prevents the spread of pathogens, allowing healthy parts to grow better.  Controlling plant size: For succulents that grow too quickly and exceed the expected space, pruning can limit their height and width, making them suitable for small-space cultivation. The best time to prune succulents: timing is crucial Not all times are suitable for pruning succulents. Choosing the right time can help wounds heal faster and reduce the risk of infection: Spring and autumn (growing season): When temperatures are between 15-25°C, succulents grow actively. Pruning at this time allows wounds to heal quickly and new shoots to sprout rapidly, making it the optimal pruning season.  Summer (high-temperature period): When temperatures exceed 30°C, succulents grow more slowly, and pruning wounds are prone to bacterial infections. Unless there are urgent issues like root rot or disease, pruning is not recommended. Winter (low-temperature period): When temperatures drop below 10°C, succulents enter dormancy, and pruning wounds heal slowly, potentially causing frostbite. Pruning should be avoided during this period. Preparation before pruning: Ensure all tools and materials are ready.   Essential tools  Scissors/pruning shears: Choose based on the size of the succulent. Use pointed-tip scissors for small succulents (e.g., The One Bloom's succulent-specific small scissors, priced at 5–8 USD), and pruning shears for large, mature plants. Ensure the blades are sharp to avoid tearing or damaging the plant. Disinfection supplies: Alcohol swabs and fungicide powder for disinfecting tools and wounds to prevent bacterial infections. Other tools are tweezers (for removing wilted small leaves) and gloves (for pruning spiny or toxic succulents). Tool disinfection is critical Before pruning, wipe the scissors' blades with alcohol swabs. Disinfect the tools again after pruning each succulent, especially after pruning diseased plants, to prevent cross-contamination.  Pruning methods for different situations: Targeted operations  Situation 1: Pruning overgrown succulents — Making the stems thicker Judgment criteria: The stems are thin and long, the internodes are spaced far apart (the distance between leaves exceeds 1 cm), the leaves at the top are small and sparse, and the whole plant leans to one side. Pruning Steps: Determine the pruning location: On a sturdy part of the stem (away from the elongated tip), locate a node with leaves (at the base of the leaves), and cut 0.5 cm above the node. Wound treatment: Apply a small amount of fungicide powder to the cut surface, place in a well-ventilated area with diffused light, and let dry for 1–2 days until the wound dries and forms a scab. Post-pruning care: After drying, place normally. New lateral buds will sprout below the cut surface in 2–3 weeks, and the original stem will gradually thicken. Example varieties: Crassula prone to excessive growth, such as Lun Yu, Dong Mei Ren, and Zi Zhen Zhu. Scenario Two: Pruning Overcrowded Succulents — Improving Airflow Judgment Criteria: Excessive branching, leaves obstructing each other, poor airflow at the base, and even yellowing or rotting leaves. Pruning steps: Sort branches: Observe the plant to identify inward-growing, overlapping branches, as well as weak or unhealthy branches. Selective pruning: Cut these branches from the base, retaining only sturdy, outward-growing, healthy branches to improve airflow and light penetration within the plant. Remove leaves: Use tweezers to remove wilted or yellowing leaves at the base to prevent bacterial growth. Example varieties: Black Wizard, Copper Pot Wizard, and other succulents prone to overcrowding. Situation 3: Pruning weak succulents — Remove damaged parts Judgment criteria: Leaves or stems show signs of rot, black spots, insect damage, or root rot, causing partial branch wilting. Pruning steps:Thoroughly remove diseased tissue: Cut off all rotten or diseased branches and leaves 1–2 centimeters below healthy tissue, ensuring no signs of disease remain at the cut site. Deep disinfection: Wipe the cut surface with a multi-fungicide solution (concentration 1:500), or soak for 10 minutes and then air-dry.  Isolation and care: Place the pruned succulents separately, avoiding contact with healthy succulents, until it is confirmed that the disease has not recurred. Note: If the roots are rotten, remove the plant from the pot, prune the rotten roots, replace the soil with new soil (The One Bloom's disinfected soil for succulents), and repot the plant. Situation 4: Post-flowering pruning — conserving nutrients Judgment criteria: After the succulent has bloomed, the flower stem gradually withers, or the plant becomes weak due to excessive nutrient consumption from flowering.  Pruning steps:  Cut the flower stem 1 cm above the base to avoid leaving it too long, which can cause rot. If the plant is in poor condition after flowering, you can also remove some of the older leaves to reduce nutrient consumption. Example species: Most succulents in the Crassulaceae family (such as Lunaria and Winter Beauty) can recover quickly after flowering if pruned promptly. Post-pruning care tips: Helping succulents recover Wound healing period: Avoid water contact and direct sunlight Do not water for 1-2 days after pruning, especially avoid getting water on the wounds, as this can cause rot. Place in a well-ventilated area with indirect light (such as a north-facing windowsill), avoiding direct sunlight to prevent the wounds from drying out. Promoting new growth: Provide appropriate nutrients After the wounds have healed (approximately 3-5 days), water normally but do not fertilize, as the root system is weak at this stage and fertilization may cause fertilizer damage. Once new lateral buds emerge (approximately 2-3 weeks), apply a small amount of The One Bloom slow-release fertilizer for succulents to supplement nutrients and promote growth. Cuttings: Turn pruned branches into valuable resources Do not discard healthy pruned branches and leaves; they can be used for propagation via cuttings:Branch cuttings: Allow branches to dry for 2–3 days, then insert into potting soil (60% coarse particles), maintaining slightly dry conditions. Roots will form in 2–3 weeks. Leaf cuttings: Place healthy leaves on the soil surface. Transplant after roots and shoots develop at the base. The One Bloom “Propagation Kit” (includes propagation soil, seedling pots, and rooting powder) enhances propagation success rates, priced at 10-15 USD.  Pruning Techniques for Different Types of Succulents  Small Succulents (e.g., Bear Cub, Graptopetalum amethystinum (Rose)Walther) Characteristics: Compact plants with delicate stems; handle with care during pruning to avoid damaging healthy leaves. Technique: Use sharp-tipped small scissors for gentle pruning. When the plant becomes leggy, trim only the top portion of the stem (no more than 1 cm) to prevent excessive pruning from causing the plant to wilt. Large old stems (such as Jade Plant, Old Moon) Characteristics: Thick, woody stems with many branches; recovers quickly after pruning. Technique: Use pruning shears to boldly trim, removing excessively long or dense branches to promote a more aesthetically pleasing shape for the old stem.Spiny succulents (such as cacti, cactus balls) Characteristics: They have sharp spines that can cause injuries, so proper protection is necessary during pruning. Technique: Wear thick gloves, use tweezers to secure the branches, and then prune with scissors to avoid direct contact with your hands; promptly remove fallen spines after pruning to prevent accidental injuries. Dense-leaved succulents (e.g., Jade Plant, Buddha's Beads) Characteristics: Compact leaves with limited pruning space; primarily prune wilted leaves. Technique: Use tweezers to carefully remove wilted or yellowed leaves; do not pull on healthy leaves to avoid damaging the leaf center.  Common pruning mistakes: Avoid these practices  Mistake 1: “Over-pruning” in pursuit of perfection Cutting off too many branches and leaves at once can cause succulents to lose too many nutrients, making it difficult for them to recover and even leading to death. It is recommended that no more than one-third of the plant's total volume be pruned at a time.  Mistake 2: “Watering and Fertilizing Immediately After Pruning” Watering before wounds have healed can cause rot; fertilizing at this stage can lead to fertilizer damage due to weakened root absorption capacity. Normal care should only resume after wounds have healed.  Misconception 3: “Using rusty or dull tools for pruning” Rusty tools carry a large number of pathogens that can contaminate wounds; dull tools can tear the plant, causing larger wounds and increasing the risk of infection. Only use sharp, disinfected tools.  Misconception 4: “Ignoring ventilation after pruning” Pruning wounds require good ventilation to heal quickly; a closed environment can cause wounds to rot, especially after summer pruning, so ventilation must be enhanced (fans can be used).  Beginner pruning tips: Start with the basics  Begin with small succulents: varieties like Lun Yu or Dong Mei Ren, which are resilient and can recover even if pruned improperly, are ideal for gaining experience.  The “less is more” principle: When unsure how much to prune, start with a small amount, observe the results, and then perform a second pruning to avoid damaging the plant in one go.  Record pruning results: Take before-and-after photos with your phone, record the pruning date and method, and summarize your experience for smoother pruning next time.  Make pruning a “bonus” for succulent care.   Pruning is not the goal, but a means to make succulents healthier and more aesthetically pleasing. Once you master the correct pruning techniques, you'll notice your succulents becoming more vibrant and their shapes more attractive over time. The One Bloom “Succulent Pruning Tool Set” (including scissors, tweezers, disinfectant wipes, and fungicide) meets all the pruning needs of beginners, priced at 15-20 USD. In fact, pruning succulents is like giving plants a “haircut.” With a little practice, you'll find the perfect pruning method for each type of succulent, allowing them to adorn your life in their most beautiful form. 

Looking at the succulents on the windowsill, you start to worry again: Should I water them today? Was it a week or two weeks ago since the last watering? Indoor succulents don’t have natural rainfall regulation like outdoor ones, so watering is entirely dependent on manual control. Overwatering can cause root rot, while underwatering can lead to wilting. No wonder beginners often say, “Watering is the biggest challenge in caring for succulents.” In fact, there’s no fixed answer for how often to water indoor succulents—it depends on the variety, season, soil, and container. Today, we’ll break down the watering patterns for indoor succulents so you no longer have to worry about “how often to water.”  Indoor succulent watering: The key is to “check the condition” rather than “stick to a schedule.”  Indoor environments are relatively stable (with minimal changes in temperature and light), but ventilation is typically poorer than outdoors, and soil moisture evaporates more slowly. This means that watering frequency should be lower than outdoors. Determining when to water should not rely on a fixed schedule like “once a week,” but rather on observing the plant's condition and soil moisture levels — just as humans drink when they're thirsty, succulents will “tell you” they need water through their leaves.  The 4 Major Factors Affecting Indoor Succulent Watering Frequency  Factor 1: Succulent Variety Determines “Drought Tolerance”  Drought-tolerant succulents: cacti, cactus balls, and moonflowers, etc., whose leaves or stems can store large amounts of water, allowing for longer watering intervals. Watering Frequency: Every 2-3 weeks in spring and fall, every 1-2 weeks in summer (in well-ventilated conditions), and once a month in winter.  Moisture-Loving Succulents: Jade, Buddha's Beads, Bear Cub, etc., with tender leaves that store little water, requiring shorter watering intervals. Watering frequency: 1-2 weeks in spring and autumn, 1 week in summer (small amounts), and 2-3 weeks in winter.  The One Bloom's “Variety Watering Guide”: When purchasing succulents, the label will indicate the variety's drought tolerance level. Beginners can refer to this to adjust the watering frequency. Factor 2: Seasonal changes affect “water requirements” Spring and autumn (growing season): Temperatures range from 15-25°C, succulents grow actively, and water consumption is high, making this the season with the most frequent watering. Summer (high temperature period): If the air conditioner is on indoors (temperature 25-30°C), succulent growth slows down, water evaporation is fast, but root absorption is weak, so watering frequency is slightly lower than in spring and autumn.  Winter (low-temperature period): When temperatures drop below 10°C, succulents enter dormancy, nearly ceasing growth, and watering frequency is significantly reduced (or even suspended). Factor 3: Soil and container affect the “water evaporation rate”  Soil particle ratio: The more particles (such as The One Bloom's succulent-specific soil, with a particle ratio of 60%), the better the air permeability, the faster the water evaporation, and the more frequent the watering; pure peat soil retains water well, so watering should be less frequent.  Container material: Terracotta pots are highly porous, allowing water to evaporate fastest, so watering frequency is highest; plastic and ceramic pots retain moisture well, so watering intervals should be extended (wait an additional 1–2 days compared to terracotta pots).  Container size: Small pots (diameter <10 cm) have less soil, so water evaporates faster, requiring more frequent watering; large pots have more soil, so watering intervals can be longer.  Factor 4: Indoor Environment Determines “Dryness”   Ventilation Conditions: In well-ventilated indoor spaces with open windows and fans, air circulation is good, moisture evaporates quickly, and watering can be slightly more frequent; in enclosed rooms (such as air-conditioned rooms that remain closed for extended periods), watering should be reduced.  Air Humidity: In humid regions (such as the rainy season in southern China), high air humidity slows soil drying, so watering intervals can be extended; in dry regions (such as northern China during winter with heating), moisture evaporates quickly, so that watering can be slightly more frequent (but avoid waterlogging the soil). 3 Signs That Indoor Succulents Need Watering  Sign 1: The soil is arid. How to check: Insert your finger 2 cm into the soil and feel for moisture, or use The One Bloom soil moisture meter (US$10-15) and check that the pointer is in the “dry” zone. Note: Even if it's the “expected watering time,” wait a few more days if the soil is still moist, especially with plastic pots. Signal 2: Leaves show “water deficiency reaction”Drought-tolerant succulents: The bottom leaves become wrinkled and soft, while the top leaves remain plump (e.g., slight indentation around the bottom spines of a cactus).Moisture-loving succulents: The leaves become slightly wrinkled overall and lose their luster (e.g., the surface of a jade plant becomes cloudy and opaque). Exception: If leaves turn yellow, soften, and the soil remains moist, it may indicate root rot rather than water deficiency. Do not water in this case.  Signal 3: The pot feels lighter. Judgment method: Pick up the pot before watering; if it feels significantly lighter (more than half as light as when it was just watered), it indicates that the soil is nearly dry. Suitable scenarios: This method is highly accurate for small-pot succulents (diameter <10 cm); for large-pot succulents, combine with soil inspection.  Watering Frequency Guidelines for Indoor Succulents in Different Conditions Spring and Autumn (15-25°C, well-ventilated) Drought-tolerant varieties + terracotta pots + coarse-grained soil: once every 2 weeks Drought-tolerant varieties + plastic pots + peat moss: once every 3 weeks Moisture-loving varieties + terracotta pots + coarse-grained soil: once a week Moisture-loving varieties + plastic pots + peat moss: once every 1.5 weeks  Summer (25-30°C, with air conditioning or ventilation) Drought-tolerant: Every 2 weeks (small amount, water along the pot edge) Moisture-loving: Every week (avoid midday, choose evening) Note: If the indoor temperature exceeds 35°C in summer, succulents enter dormancy; reduce watering frequency by half (or even stop watering).  Winter (10–15°C, heated room) Drought-tolerant: Once a month (choose sunny midday) Moisture-loving type: Every 2–3 weeks (water temperature should be close to room temperature to avoid cold water shock) Note: When temperatures drop below 10°C, most succulents enter dormancy. Drought-tolerant types should be watered every 1.5–2 months, and moisture-loving types every month (in small amounts).  The “correct way” to water indoor succulents  Watering method: “water along the edge” rather than “watering the leaves” Use a spouted watering can to slowly water along the edge of the pot, allowing the water to drain out from the bottom drainage holes (i.e., “water thoroughly”), avoiding direct contact with the leaves, especially the leaf center (water accumulation can cause rot). For succulents with fuzzy leaves (such as Bear's Paw) and Jade, watering along the edge is essential, as water on the leaves can cause rot. Watering Time: Choose “appropriate temperatures” Spring and Autumn: Morning or evening (avoid midday heat) Summer: Evening (after temperatures have dropped to prevent rapid evaporation) Winter: Midday on sunny days (when water temperature is highest to minimize root stress) After watering, “Enhance ventilation” to prevent root rot After watering, place the succulent near a window or fan (at least 1 meter away) to allow the soil surface to dry within 1-2 days, avoiding prolonged moisture. In enclosed rooms, open a window for 1 hour after watering or use a small fan for 30 minutes. This is crucial for preventing root rot in indoor succulents. Common watering misconceptions: Avoid these practices  Misconception 1: “Water once a week at a fixed time” Watering at a fixed time, regardless of whether the soil is dry, is the main cause of root rot in indoor succulents. Remember: watering frequency is a “reference,” and soil moisture is the “standard.” Misconception 2: “Water heavily when leaves wrinkle.” Wrinkled leaves may indicate water deficiency, but they could also be a sign of root rot (when roots cannot absorb water due to rot, leaves may also wrinkle). If the soil is moist but the leaves are wrinkled, remove the plant from the pot to inspect the roots before watering. Misconception 3: “Using a spray bottle to mist the soil instead of watering”  A spray bottle only moistens the surface soil, and the roots cannot absorb water. Prolonged use of this method can cause succulents to “starve for water”; additionally, water accumulation on the leaves can lead to rot, especially in poorly ventilated indoor environments.  Misconception 4: “Avoiding watering in winter due to fear of freezing” During winter, when indoor temperatures are between 10-15°C, succulents grow slowly but still require a small amount of water (completely withholding water can cause the root system to dry out). Water sparingly during sunny midday hours. Watering techniques for different containers and soils Red clay pot + high-particle soil (good air permeability)Features: Water evaporates quickly, suitable for beginners (even if you water a little too much, it will dry quickly).Tips: Wait 1-2 days after watering until the soil surface dries. Observe the condition of the leaves. If the lower leaves are wrinkled, it means you can shorten the watering interval.  Plastic Pot + Low-Grain Soil (High Water Retention) Features: Slow water evaporation, prone to waterlogging, requires strict control of watering frequency. Tips: Before each watering, check if the soil is dry at depth. Insert a bamboo stick 2 cm into the soil; if it comes out dry, water.  Shallow pots (height < 10 cm) Features: Less soil, dries quickly overall, but prone to waterlogging at the bottom (due to insufficient height and slow drainage). Tip: Water sparingly to avoid waterlogging at the bottom. You can water in two separate sessions (spaced 10 minutes apart) to ensure even absorption. Essential for beginners: Use tools to help determine when to water  Soil moisture meter After inserting it into the soil, the needle directly indicates the moisture level. The One Bloom moisture meter also features light detection functionality (10–15 USD), making it ideal for complete beginners with no prior experience.  Weighing Method Mark the weight of a recently watered succulent (e.g., by attaching a label to the pot to record the weight). Weigh it again before each watering; when the weight approaches half of the dry weight, it’s time to water.  Observation and Record-Keeping Keep a small notebook to record the date of each watering and the succulent’s condition. After accumulating data for 2–3 months, you can summarize a watering schedule suited to your indoor environment.  The Ultimate Tips for Making Indoor Succulent Watering a Breeze   The key to watering indoor succulents is “better dry than wet”—a slight lack of water won’t kill them, but overwatering can lead to root rot and death. If you’re unsure, wait until the bottom leaves show obvious signs of wilting before watering—this is the safest approach. The One Bloom “Succulent Watering Kit” (including a narrow-spouted watering can, humidity meter, and pot bottom pad) can help beginners master watering techniques more easily. In fact, after caring for succulents for a while, you'll find that the condition of the leaves is more reliable than any tool—it's like the understanding between friends; after spending time together, you naturally know whether it's “thirsty” or not.

While cleaning a vase, you suddenly wondered: if water-cultivated pothos can survive, can succulents grow in water? Previously, when you soaked fallen succulent leaves in water, they actually grew roots, but when you submerged the entire succulent in water, it rotted — the relationship between succulents and water is truly enigmatic. In fact, just as some plants are naturally suited to aquatic environments while others can only thrive in soil, whether succulents can grow in water depends on the variety and method. Today, we’ll uncover the secrets of succulent hydroponics, revealing which succulents can survive in water and how to perform hydroponics properly.  Succulents and Hydroponics: Survival Attempts in Special Environments Hydroponics is an “unconventional” growth method for succulents. Soil provides support and aeration for root systems, while in hydroponics, roots are completely submerged or in contact with water, requiring higher oxygen levels. Some succulents can adapt to aquatic environments by adjusting their root structures (growing aerial roots), while others cannot adapt and may develop root rot due to oxygen deficiency. Therefore, whether succulents can grow in water depends on whether their root systems can be induced to adapt to hydroponic conditions. These succulents “can grow in water” and can also survive in hydroponics.    Succulents that are easy to grow in hydroponics: strong root adaptability.   Representative varieties: Crassula, Winter Beauty, Purple Pearl, Jade Tree, and other Crassulaceae succulents, as well as Pothos (though not a succulent, it is often mistaken for one). The roots of these succulents can quickly develop aerial roots in water to absorb oxygen and moisture.   Hydroponic performance: After hydroponic cultivation, new white roots will grow within 1-2 weeks, and the leaves remain plump. Although growth is slower than in soil cultivation, they can survive long-term; under adequate light, the leaf color also remains vibrant.  Hydroponic recommendations: Use a transparent glass bottle or The One Bloom's specialized hydroponic container (with a stand at the bottom so the root system is not fully submerged), allowing half of the root system to be in contact with water and half exposed to air (to increase oxygen absorption); place in diffused light and avoid direct sunlight, which can cause water temperature to rise.   Leaf Cutting Hydroponics: An Attempt from Leaf to Mature Plant  Representative varieties: The leaves of Lun Yu and Dong Meiren have a high success rate for hydroponic leaf cuttings. Method: Place a healthy leaf on the water surface (without touching the water) or allow the base of the leaf to touch the water surface lightly. Place it in a well-ventilated area with diffused light. After 2–3 weeks, roots will form at the base. Once the roots extend into the water, the leaf will gradually sprout new buds.  Notes: After the leaf roots form, maintain a stable water level with half of the roots submerged; once the new shoots grow larger, they can continue in hydroponics or be transplanted into soil. These succulents are “not suitable for hydroponics”; soil cultivation is safer.  Haworthia: Roots rot easily in water.  Representative varieties: Jade Dew, Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia truncata, etc. Their root systems are fragile and cannot obtain sufficient oxygen in water, making them prone to rot.  Hydroponic risks: Within 3–5 days of hydroponic cultivation, leaves become soft, roots turn black, and even reducing water levels cannot reverse the damage, ultimately leading to the entire plant wilting.  Recommendations: Only soil cultivation is suitable, with a high proportion of coarse soil particles (over 60%) to prevent waterlogging in the pot. Succulents with fuzzy or thick leaves: Prone to rot in hydroponic cultivation  Representative varieties: Bear Cub, Graptopetalum amethystinum (Rose)Walther, Echeveria Laui with fuzzy or thick leaves. If leaves come into contact with water during hydroponic cultivation, they are prone to rot; the root system also struggles to adapt to the aquatic environment.  Hydroponic risks: Leaves mold when wet, roots rot due to oxygen deprivation, and survival rates are extremely low.  Recommendations: Strictly use soil cultivation, avoid wetting leaves when watering, and keep the soil slightly. Detailed Steps for Hydroponic Cultivation of Succulents: From Preparation to Maintenance Step 1: Prepare Hydroponic Containers and Tools Containers: Transparent glass bottles (for easy observation of root systems) and hydroponic pots (with planting baskets). Containers should be washed with clean water in advance to avoid contamination of water quality by residual impurities.  Water Quality: Use tap water that has been left to stand for 1-2 days (to remove chlorine), or purified water, or cooled boiled water. Avoid using tap water directly.  Tools: Scissors (for trimming roots), fungicide (for disinfection), planting basket (to secure the plant, optional).  Step 2: Prepare the Plant and Induce Hydroponic Roots  Selecting plants: Choose healthy, pest-free succulents. After removing them from the pot, gently shake off the soil and rinse the roots with clean water (do not scrub vigorously).   Pruning and disinfecting roots: Trim off rotten or aged roots, retaining healthy white roots. Soak the roots in a multi-fungicide solution for 10 minutes, then remove and air-dry for 1-2 days (to allow wounds to heal).  Step 3: Secure the plant and control the water level  Secure: Place the succulent in a container and secure it with a planting basket or foam board (to prevent the plant from tipping over). Ensure that half of the root system is submerged in water and half is exposed to air (a critical step determining the success of hydroponic cultivation).  Initial care: Place in a well-ventilated area with diffused light. Do not change the water for the first 3 days to allow the roots to acclimate to the environment. After 3 days, if the water remains clear, it can be retained; if it becomes cloudy, replace with fresh water.  Step 4: Post-hydroponic care  Water change frequency: Change water once a week in summer, and every 2-3 weeks in winter. Rinse the inner walls of the container during water changes to prevent algae growth; retain 1/3 of the old water each time to help the roots adapt to the water quality.  Light management: Place on an east- or west-facing windowsill to receive 2-3 hours of diffused light daily, avoiding direct sunlight (excessively high water temperatures can cause root oxygen deprivation).  Fertilization: Nutrient levels in hydroponic systems are limited. Apply 1-2 drops of The One Bloom hydroponic-specific nutrient solution (diluted) monthly to prevent water quality deterioration from over-fertilization. Common Issues and Solutions for Hydroponic Succulents  Blackened or Rotten Roots  Cause: Roots are completely submerged in water (oxygen deprivation) or water quality deteriorates due to infrequent water changes.  Solution: Immediately remove the plant, trim off the rotten roots, disinfect with fungicide, let dry for 1 day, replace with fresh water, and adjust the water level (roots should be half-submerged in water); thoroughly clean and disinfect the container. Yellowing and Wilting Leaves  Cause: Insufficient light (preventing photosynthesis) or water temperature below 10°C.  Solution: Move to a location with more diffused light (e.g., near a window); maintain water temperature above 15°C in winter (place indoors in a warm area, avoiding proximity to cold water sources).  Cloudy water and algae growth  Causes: Direct sunlight causes algae proliferation, or excessive fertilization.  Solution: Move to a shaded area, replace the water, and clean the container; reduce fertilization to avoid nutrient solution residue Hydroponics vs. Soil Cultivation: Which is Better for Succulents? Advantages and Disadvantages of Hydroponics Advantages: Clean and tidy, allows observation of root growth, suitable for indoor decoration; easy watering, no need to worry about soil compaction.  Disadvantages: Slow growth rate, roots prone to oxygen deficiency and rot, high requirements for plant varieties, and prolonged hydroponics may weaken the plant.  Advantages and Disadvantages of Soil Cultivation  Advantages: Roots receive ample oxygen, fast growth rate, are suitable for most succulents, are easy to manage, and high survival rate.  Disadvantages: May have soil dust, and improper watering can cause root rot (but easier to control than hydroponics).  Recommendations  Beginners should prioritize soil cultivation and use The One Bloom's succulent-specific soil for higher survival rates. If you want to try hydroponics, start with easy-to-cultivate varieties such as Lun Yu and Dong Mei Ren, and then try other varieties after gaining experience.  Try hydroponics to experience a different kind of care and fun  Hydroponic succulents are an interesting experiment. Watching the roots spread out in water and the leaves come alive under the sun is a unique experience. The One Bloom's “Hydroponic Succulent Kit” (including easy-to-grow hydroponic varieties, containers, and nutrient solution) is perfect for beginners, priced at 20-25 USD. However, remember that most succulents are better suited for soil cultivation. Hydroponics is merely an aesthetic method and not the optimal choice for long-term growth. Whether cultivated in soil or water, understanding the needs of succulents will ensure their healthy growth. Choose a Lunar Moon today and begin your hydroponic journey!