How Often to Water Succulents

Looking at the succulents on the windowsill, you start to worry again: Should I water them today? Was it a week or two weeks ago since the last watering? Indoor succulents don’t have natural rainfall regulation like outdoor ones, so watering is entirely dependent on manual control. Overwatering can cause root rot, while underwatering can lead to wilting. No wonder beginners often say, “Watering is the biggest challenge in caring for succulents.” In fact, there’s no fixed answer for how often to water indoor succulents—it depends on the variety, season, soil, and container. Today, we’ll break down the watering patterns for indoor succulents so you no longer have to worry about “how often to water.”  Indoor succulent watering: The key is to “check the condition” rather than “stick to a schedule.”  Indoor environments are relatively stable (with minimal changes in temperature and light), but ventilation is typically poorer than outdoors, and soil moisture evaporates more slowly. This means that watering frequency should be lower than outdoors. Determining when to water should not rely on a fixed schedule like “once a week,” but rather on observing the plant's condition and soil moisture levels — just as humans drink when they're thirsty, succulents will “tell you” they need water through their leaves.  The 4 Major Factors Affecting Indoor Succulent Watering Frequency  Factor 1: Succulent Variety Determines “Drought Tolerance”  Drought-tolerant succulents: cacti, cactus balls, and moonflowers, etc., whose leaves or stems can store large amounts of water, allowing for longer watering intervals. Watering Frequency: Every 2-3 weeks in spring and fall, every 1-2 weeks in summer (in well-ventilated conditions), and once a month in winter.  Moisture-Loving Succulents: Jade, Buddha's Beads, Bear Cub, etc., with tender leaves that store little water, requiring shorter watering intervals. Watering frequency: 1-2 weeks in spring and autumn, 1 week in summer (small amounts), and 2-3 weeks in winter.  The One Bloom's “Variety Watering Guide”: When purchasing succulents, the label will indicate the variety's drought tolerance level. Beginners can refer to this to adjust the watering frequency. Factor 2: Seasonal changes affect “water requirements” Spring and autumn (growing season): Temperatures range from 15-25°C, succulents grow actively, and water consumption is high, making this the season with the most frequent watering. Summer (high temperature period): If the air conditioner is on indoors (temperature 25-30°C), succulent growth slows down, water evaporation is fast, but root absorption is weak, so watering frequency is slightly lower than in spring and autumn.  Winter (low-temperature period): When temperatures drop below 10°C, succulents enter dormancy, nearly ceasing growth, and watering frequency is significantly reduced (or even suspended). Factor 3: Soil and container affect the “water evaporation rate”  Soil particle ratio: The more particles (such as The One Bloom's succulent-specific soil, with a particle ratio of 60%), the better the air permeability, the faster the water evaporation, and the more frequent the watering; pure peat soil retains water well, so watering should be less frequent.  Container material: Terracotta pots are highly porous, allowing water to evaporate fastest, so watering frequency is highest; plastic and ceramic pots retain moisture well, so watering intervals should be extended (wait an additional 1–2 days compared to terracotta pots).  Container size: Small pots (diameter <10 cm) have less soil, so water evaporates faster, requiring more frequent watering; large pots have more soil, so watering intervals can be longer.  Factor 4: Indoor Environment Determines “Dryness”   Ventilation Conditions: In well-ventilated indoor spaces with open windows and fans, air circulation is good, moisture evaporates quickly, and watering can be slightly more frequent; in enclosed rooms (such as air-conditioned rooms that remain closed for extended periods), watering should be reduced.  Air Humidity: In humid regions (such as the rainy season in southern China), high air humidity slows soil drying, so watering intervals can be extended; in dry regions (such as northern China during winter with heating), moisture evaporates quickly, so that watering can be slightly more frequent (but avoid waterlogging the soil). 3 Signs That Indoor Succulents Need Watering  Sign 1: The soil is arid. How to check: Insert your finger 2 cm into the soil and feel for moisture, or use The One Bloom soil moisture meter (US$10-15) and check that the pointer is in the “dry” zone. Note: Even if it's the “expected watering time,” wait a few more days if the soil is still moist, especially with plastic pots. Signal 2: Leaves show “water deficiency reaction”Drought-tolerant succulents: The bottom leaves become wrinkled and soft, while the top leaves remain plump (e.g., slight indentation around the bottom spines of a cactus).Moisture-loving succulents: The leaves become slightly wrinkled overall and lose their luster (e.g., the surface of a jade plant becomes cloudy and opaque). Exception: If leaves turn yellow, soften, and the soil remains moist, it may indicate root rot rather than water deficiency. Do not water in this case.  Signal 3: The pot feels lighter. Judgment method: Pick up the pot before watering; if it feels significantly lighter (more than half as light as when it was just watered), it indicates that the soil is nearly dry. Suitable scenarios: This method is highly accurate for small-pot succulents (diameter <10 cm); for large-pot succulents, combine with soil inspection.  Watering Frequency Guidelines for Indoor Succulents in Different Conditions Spring and Autumn (15-25°C, well-ventilated) Drought-tolerant varieties + terracotta pots + coarse-grained soil: once every 2 weeks Drought-tolerant varieties + plastic pots + peat moss: once every 3 weeks Moisture-loving varieties + terracotta pots + coarse-grained soil: once a week Moisture-loving varieties + plastic pots + peat moss: once every 1.5 weeks  Summer (25-30°C, with air conditioning or ventilation) Drought-tolerant: Every 2 weeks (small amount, water along the pot edge) Moisture-loving: Every week (avoid midday, choose evening) Note: If the indoor temperature exceeds 35°C in summer, succulents enter dormancy; reduce watering frequency by half (or even stop watering).  Winter (10–15°C, heated room) Drought-tolerant: Once a month (choose sunny midday) Moisture-loving type: Every 2–3 weeks (water temperature should be close to room temperature to avoid cold water shock) Note: When temperatures drop below 10°C, most succulents enter dormancy. Drought-tolerant types should be watered every 1.5–2 months, and moisture-loving types every month (in small amounts).  The “correct way” to water indoor succulents  Watering method: “water along the edge” rather than “watering the leaves” Use a spouted watering can to slowly water along the edge of the pot, allowing the water to drain out from the bottom drainage holes (i.e., “water thoroughly”), avoiding direct contact with the leaves, especially the leaf center (water accumulation can cause rot). For succulents with fuzzy leaves (such as Bear's Paw) and Jade, watering along the edge is essential, as water on the leaves can cause rot. Watering Time: Choose “appropriate temperatures” Spring and Autumn: Morning or evening (avoid midday heat) Summer: Evening (after temperatures have dropped to prevent rapid evaporation) Winter: Midday on sunny days (when water temperature is highest to minimize root stress) After watering, “Enhance ventilation” to prevent root rot After watering, place the succulent near a window or fan (at least 1 meter away) to allow the soil surface to dry within 1-2 days, avoiding prolonged moisture. In enclosed rooms, open a window for 1 hour after watering or use a small fan for 30 minutes. This is crucial for preventing root rot in indoor succulents. Common watering misconceptions: Avoid these practices  Misconception 1: “Water once a week at a fixed time” Watering at a fixed time, regardless of whether the soil is dry, is the main cause of root rot in indoor succulents. Remember: watering frequency is a “reference,” and soil moisture is the “standard.” Misconception 2: “Water heavily when leaves wrinkle.” Wrinkled leaves may indicate water deficiency, but they could also be a sign of root rot (when roots cannot absorb water due to rot, leaves may also wrinkle). If the soil is moist but the leaves are wrinkled, remove the plant from the pot to inspect the roots before watering. Misconception 3: “Using a spray bottle to mist the soil instead of watering”  A spray bottle only moistens the surface soil, and the roots cannot absorb water. Prolonged use of this method can cause succulents to “starve for water”; additionally, water accumulation on the leaves can lead to rot, especially in poorly ventilated indoor environments.  Misconception 4: “Avoiding watering in winter due to fear of freezing” During winter, when indoor temperatures are between 10-15°C, succulents grow slowly but still require a small amount of water (completely withholding water can cause the root system to dry out). Water sparingly during sunny midday hours. Watering techniques for different containers and soils Red clay pot + high-particle soil (good air permeability)Features: Water evaporates quickly, suitable for beginners (even if you water a little too much, it will dry quickly).Tips: Wait 1-2 days after watering until the soil surface dries. Observe the condition of the leaves. If the lower leaves are wrinkled, it means you can shorten the watering interval.  Plastic Pot + Low-Grain Soil (High Water Retention) Features: Slow water evaporation, prone to waterlogging, requires strict control of watering frequency. Tips: Before each watering, check if the soil is dry at depth. Insert a bamboo stick 2 cm into the soil; if it comes out dry, water.  Shallow pots (height < 10 cm) Features: Less soil, dries quickly overall, but prone to waterlogging at the bottom (due to insufficient height and slow drainage). Tip: Water sparingly to avoid waterlogging at the bottom. You can water in two separate sessions (spaced 10 minutes apart) to ensure even absorption. Essential for beginners: Use tools to help determine when to water  Soil moisture meter After inserting it into the soil, the needle directly indicates the moisture level. The One Bloom moisture meter also features light detection functionality (10–15 USD), making it ideal for complete beginners with no prior experience.  Weighing Method Mark the weight of a recently watered succulent (e.g., by attaching a label to the pot to record the weight). Weigh it again before each watering; when the weight approaches half of the dry weight, it’s time to water.  Observation and Record-Keeping Keep a small notebook to record the date of each watering and the succulent’s condition. After accumulating data for 2–3 months, you can summarize a watering schedule suited to your indoor environment.  The Ultimate Tips for Making Indoor Succulent Watering a Breeze   The key to watering indoor succulents is “better dry than wet”—a slight lack of water won’t kill them, but overwatering can lead to root rot and death. If you’re unsure, wait until the bottom leaves show obvious signs of wilting before watering—this is the safest approach. The One Bloom “Succulent Watering Kit” (including a narrow-spouted watering can, humidity meter, and pot bottom pad) can help beginners master watering techniques more easily. In fact, after caring for succulents for a while, you'll find that the condition of the leaves is more reliable than any tool—it's like the understanding between friends; after spending time together, you naturally know whether it's “thirsty” or not.

Late at night, working overtime, I glimpsed the windowsill with a pot of succulent leaves, leaves wrinkled like rubbed paper -- most likely watering problems. Raise succulent people understand, watering is a “mystery”: someone three days to water once, meat watering; someone a week to water once, but rotten roots and leaves. The secret of watering succulents is not in the “frequency”, but in the “tricks”. Mastering these few tips hidden in the details, even a novice, can make the succulent fat and bright, so they no longer need to worry about the dried leaves!  When to water succulents? The timing of watering succulents depends on the dry and wet state of the soil, the season, the climate, and the growth stage of the plant. Here are some practical ways to determine the timing of watering: Observe the state of the soil: Succulents prefer the principle of “water well when dry”. Check the moisture level 1-2 centimeters below the soil surface. If it is completely dry, you can water it. You can judge this by inserting a chopstick or finger into the soil. Observe the appearance of the plant: If the succulent leaves begin to crumple slightly or lose their luster, it may be a sign of water shortage. However, do not wait until the leaves are severely shriveled before watering to avoid harming the plant. Consider environmental factors: succulents maintained indoors evaporate more slowly than outdoor succulents and should be watered less frequently accordingly. A well-ventilated environment can speed up soil drying. Suggestion: Avoid watering at fixed times, such as “once a week”. Adjust flexibly according to the specific environment and plant needs. How much watering do I give my succulent? The amount of watering needed is determined by the size of the pot, the type of soil, and the environment. The following are specific recommendations: The principle of “water well when dry”: When watering, make sure that the water flows out of the bottom of the pot, indicating that the soil is completely moist. However, do not allow water to accumulate at the bottom of the pot for a long period of time to avoid root rot. Small pots vs. large pots: Small pots (less than 10 cm in diameter) usually require small amounts of watering, while large pots can be watered all at once.  Soil ratios: Succulent soil is usually a mixture of granular soil (e.g., perlite, volcanic rock) and peat soil. Soil with a high proportion of granules drains quickly and requires slightly more water; soil with a high proportion of peat retains water well and requires less water. Suggestion: Use pots with drainage holes to ensure excess water can drain away. Pour off any standing water in the tray after watering. How can I tell if I am overwatering? Overwatering is a common problem in succulent care and can lead to root rot or plant growth. Here are signs of overwatering and how to deal with it: Signs: Leaves become soft, transparent, or yellowish, and fall off easily when touched. Stems turn black or rot, and the soil is wet for a long time. Growth of the plant as a whole (elongated stems and widely spaced leaves). Countermeasures: Stop watering immediately and move to a well-ventilated place to dry the soil. Check the root system. If there is any rotted part, prune and replant. Adjust the watering frequency and make sure the soil is completely dry before watering. Suggestions for prevention: Use a well-aerated soil (e.g., 50%-70% granular soil) and make sure the pot has good drainage. Frequency of Watering Succulents  The frequency of watering varies depending on the environment and season. Here are some general recommendations: Spring (March-May): Succulents are entering the growing season, check the soil every 7-10 days and water well when dry. Summer (June-August): High temperatures may cause dormancy. Reduce the frequency of watering to every 10-15 days, or only water sparingly when the soil is completely dry. Avoid watering during midday heat. Fall (September-November): Similar to spring, this is the prime growth period for succulents; water every 7-10 days. Winter (December-February): Cold temperatures may cause dormancy; water less frequently than every 15-30 days, or only sparingly when leaves are slightly crinkled. Environmental effects: Southern humid areas: extend watering intervals and pay attention to ventilation. Northern dry areas: Watering frequency can be increased, but the principle of “water well when dry” should still be followed. How to water in different seasons? Succulents are sensitive to seasonal changes, and watering strategies need to be adjusted accordingly: Spring: Increase watering moderately to promote growth. Water in the morning or evening, and avoid direct sunlight. Summer: Reduce watering and avoid watering when it is hot and humid. Choose early morning or evening watering and keep the soil slightly dry. Fall: Return to normal watering frequency and watch the soil for dryness. Winter: Keep the soil dry and water sparingly to prevent the roots from drying out. Avoid watering when the temperature is below 10°C to avoid frostbite. Tip: Use a hygrometer or check soil moisture regularly to avoid blind watering. Other useful watering tips Choose the right watering tool: use a fine spout watering can or dropper to precisely control the amount of water and avoid overwatering. Water quality: Prefer using rainwater or filtered water to avoid chlorides in tap water that can harm succulents. Misting vs. watering: Misting is suitable for seedlings or when the air is dry to increase humidity, but it should not replace watering. Over-misting may lead to waterlogged leaves and cause mold. Observe the weather: Reduce watering on cloudy and rainy days, and water moderately on sunny days according to soil conditions. The best succulent varieties for “lazy watering” If you're always worried about forgetting to water, choose one of these “shape-resistant” succulents: Jade Tree: leaves as thick as coins, a month without watering is fine; on the contrary, watering too much can cause easy to drop leaves.  Haworthia:  leaves are crystal clear, drought-resistant, and shade-tolerant, suitable for the desk, occasional watering on the line.  Lithops： grows like a stone, the rainy season will be “peeling”, this time to completely cut off water, but it can grow more circumscribed.  The One Bloom includes all of these, and with a free granular soil, you can't go wrong with a newbie's eyes closed. First Aid Guide for Improper Watering Watered and softened leaves: Stop watering immediately, remove the watered leaves, and place them in a ventilated area for 3 days, then water sparingly when the soil dries out.  Waterlogged and smelly potting soil: Take off the pot immediately, cut off the rotted root system, soak it in carbendazim for 10 minutes, replant it with new dry soil, and do not water it for a week.  Wrinkled and dull leaves: Rehydrate the plant by soaking it in a pot, then put it in a diffused light for 2 days, and the leaves will slowly regain their fullness.  Start your “Precision Watering” journey now Watering succulents is not a “task” but a process of observation and interaction. The One Bloom not only has succulents, but also watering pots, granular soil, and care manuals. Starting today, throw away the rigid watering calendar and follow these tips, and your succulents will surely tell you with their chubby leaves, “This is the way to water, just right!”

Afternoon sunlight shines obliquely into the balcony, you are spraying water to humidify the green, while staring at the side of the succulent worry: the same is a plant, the green away from the humidifier on the wilting, that succulent is not also have to follow the “drink full of water vapor”? This question is like asking, “Do people like spicy food?” - the answer is never black or white. Today we will unveil the secrets of succulent and “humidity”, so that you can understand the “temperament” of your meat, and raise a full and bright state!  Is it true that succulents are afraid of humidity? Don't be deceived by the “desert origin”  When it comes to succulents, many people will immediately think of the desert, thinking that they must hate humidity. But in fact, the native environment of succulents is far more complex than imagined: some grow in the arid Gobi, some are rooted in rock crevices, and some are attached to the trunks of tropical rainforests. For example, Haworthia truncata this kind of Haworthia, the native environment is a semi-shaded valley in southern Africa, where the air is humid, small temperature difference, but instead away from a certain degree of humidity; and like Lithops, such as the “desert faction”, it is particularly sensitive to moisture, high humidity in the environment is very easy to rot the roots. Therefore, to determine whether the succulent likes moisture, you have to look at its “home” in which.  Succulents are divided into two categories: “moisture-loving faction” and “fear of moisture faction” Moisture-loving succulent: away from the moisture on the “no spirit”  This type of succulent leaves is usually thinner, permeable, or surface. There is no thick waxy layer, and a certain amount of air humidity is needed to keep it in shape:  Haworthia truncata: crystal clear leaves, which will become gray and burnt at the edges when the air is dry. It is suitable to be placed in a well-ventilated bathroom (with occasional diffused light), or spray water around it once a day with a spray bottle to keep the air humidity at 50% - 60%.  Haworthia heidelbergensis: The leaves are short, fat, and veined, and the veins become lighter or even curl up under dry conditions. You can put a small bowl of water next to the pot and let the water evaporate naturally to increase the humidity. Do not spray water directly on the leaves to avoid rotting the heart of the leaves.  Fear of humidity school succulents: a humid environment is the “invisible killer”  These succulent leaves have a thick, waxy layer or are fluffy, with their own “water storage buff”; high humidity will make them “breathless” :  Lithops： stone-like shape, “peeling” during the rainy season, and susceptible to mold when the air is humid. Ensure a dry environment when caring for them, and be sure to open a window and ventilate the soil after watering to dry it out quickly.  Cotyledon Tomentosa： The leaves are fuzzy and hard to dry after getting wet, making it easy for the leaves to rot. Water along the sides of the pot with a spouted pot, avoiding the leaves, and reduce the frequency of watering when the air is humid.  3 Practical Tips for Controlling Humidity Tip 1: Use a “hygrometer” to accurately monitor ($10 - $15) Don't judge humidity by feel; a small hygrometer can help you make a scientific decision: humidity-loving succulents are suitable for humidity levels of 50% - 70%, and humidity-fearing succulents are suitable for 30% - 50%. In winter, the humidity in the room with the heater on is often lower than 30%, so you can put a transparent plastic bag over the humidity-loving succulents (leaving air holes); during the rainy season when the humidity is more than 80%, you can move the humidity-loving succulents to the window, and use an electric fan to blow away the humidity.  Tip 2: Adjust the watering method with humidity  When the air is dry (humidity <40%), watering frequency can be slightly increased (e.g., watering once every 10 days, change it to 7 days), and watering is normal for humidity-phobic succulents, but ventilation should be strengthened after each watering.  When the air is humid (humidity>70%): reduce watering and spray water to increase humidity; prolong the watering interval (e.g., watering once in 7 days, change it to 15 days), and only water halfway through the watering each time, so that the soil dries out quickly.  Tip 3: Soils with “moisture control” have to pay attention to  moisture-loving succulents with slightly better water retention of soil: 40% of rotting leaf soil + perlite 30% + coconut husk 30%; fear of moisture succulents with a high percentage of particles of soil: volcanic rock 50% + peat soil 30% + coarse sand 20%, so that the water is quickly lost. The “first aid program” for improper humidity  Humidity-loving succulents dry and wrinkled: immediately move to a cool place, use a spray bottle to spray water around the leaves (don't spray the center of the leaves), the leaves will slowly stretch after 2 hours, and then spray water once a day for 3 days.  Fear of humidity send succulent rotten leaves and mold: cut off the rotten leaves, take off the pot to check the root system, cut off the rotten roots and soak them in carbendazim for 10 minutes, replace them with dry new soil, put them in a ventilated place, and don't water them for 1 week.  Find your “humidity balance”  Keeping succulents is like getting along with people; you need to understand their temperament to live in harmony. The One Bloom's succulent packages are labeled with the humidity preferences of each species, making it easy for novices to get started. Don't be obsessed with “whether succulents like humidity or not”, observe its state: full leaves, clear lines, that is, the right humidity; wrinkled, rotten leaves, then quickly adjust. Treat every meat with heart, they will reward you with the most beautiful posture -- this is probably the fun of raising succulents!

Imagine being woken up by the smell of coffee in the morning, and turning your head to see the round and full succulents on the window sill, shimmering in the sunlight; or late at night when you are working late at night, raising your eyes and catch a glimpse of the naive “succulent ball” on the desk, which instantly disperses your body of fatigue. This is the healing magic of indoor planting succulents! However, many people in maintenance are stuck on the same problem: succulent. In the end, how much water do we need to water? How often should I water? How do you know if you're watering too much? Don't worry, today we will take you to unlock this key knowledge so that you can succulent goodbye to “water anxiety” and grow wild indoors!  Why has watering become the “number one problem” in succulent care?  Originating from arid desert lands, succulents have evolved a superb ability to store water, with their plump leaves and rhizomes acting like a “small reservoir”. However, this has also made them extraordinarily “waterlogged,” and improper watering is the number one cause of succulent death in-home care. The “behind-the-scenes pushers” that affect the amount and frequency of watering  Seasons: a guide to the “rhythm of watering” for succulents  Spring carnival season: the temperature warms up, the sun is abundant, and succulents open a “crazy growth mode,” the amount of water needed increases dramatically. Generally, water once a week, but if you encounter continuous rainy days, air humidity, soil drying slowly, extend to about 10 days of watering; happen to be sunny, water evaporation fast, shorten to 5 - 6 days of watering is also no problem. Summer dormant period: high temperatures let many succulents into the “lying flat” state, growth stagnation, and water demand is sharply reduced. Dormant succulents, 10 - 15 days along the pot side of a small amount of watering once, do not pour through; not dormant varieties, choose early morning or evening, cool normal watering, avoid midday “barbecue mode”.  Fall Golden Period: Similar to spring, it is the peak growing season for succulents, so watering once a week is a good idea. As the weather turns cooler, slowly reduce the frequency to prepare for the cold winter.  Winter “health bureau”: low temperatures, slow growth of succulents, half a month or even once a month watering can be, see the leaves slightly wrinkled, and then water is not too late. If you put it in a heated room, it can grow normally, 7 - 10 days after watering once, but pay attention to the water temperature and room temperature is similar, and choose to water at noon to prevent frostbite.  Environment: the “watering code” hidden in the details  Light and temperature: sufficient light, high temperature, water evaporation, such as facing the south, west of the window sill, strong light, 3 - 4 days to water; weak light, low-temperature corners, watering once a week or even longer. But always remember, don't water the succulent under the big sun, or the leaves will be “scalded” in minutes.  Ventilation conditions: well-ventilated places, water dispersed quickly, watering can be a little more diligent; poor ventilation, moisture to rely on the soil does not go, it is necessary to lengthen the watering interval, or smothering the roots will rot.  Indoor humidity: high humidity environment, such as always open humidifier, or southern rainy season, originally 3 days to water once, have to change to 5 - 7 days; dry environment, like the northern heated room, in addition to normal watering, but also the plant around the water spray to increase humidity, but don't spray to the leaves, to prevent the accumulation of water rotting leaves.  Own conditions: the “individual needs” of succulent  Variety differences: thick leaves have “water storage big”, such as peach eggs, drought tolerance, 10 - 15 days watering once; thin leaves are "consumptive players ", like Sedum Clavatum, 7 - 10 days to water once.  Plant size: large succulent root system developed, water storage, watering volume and frequency have to be increased; a small succulent root system is weak, a small amount of multiple watering, don't stagnate water.  Pots and soil: red ceramic pots, breathable tile pots, water evaporation fast, 2 - 3 days watering; ceramic pots, plastic pots have strong water retention, 5 - 7 days watering. The same goes for the soil: granular soil is breathable and can be watered regularly; garden soil retains water and needs to be watered less.  3 steps to quickly determine: your succulent is not “drink support”?  Step1: look at the leaves “face.”  When watering too much, the leaves will send out a “distress signal”: become transparent, watered down, like being boiled, yellowish in color, soft to the touch, and fall off at the slightest touch. Like succulents in the genus Staphylococcus, the center leaf will also lighten. If the leaves are soft but not transparent, watering can be restored; it is a water shortage, so don't get confused.  Step 2: Measure the “wetness” of the soil  Insert your finger or a small wooden stick into the soil 2 - 3 centimeters, if it feels wet, or even can be squeezed out of the water, and just a few days after watering, the probability is that you have over-watered. Under normal circumstances, the soil will slowly dry out after watering. If it stays wet, stop! Then look at the bottom hole of the pot; there is always water seeping out, which is also a sign of watering too much. Step 3: Check the root “health”  When a succulent is in poor condition and you suspect that you have overwatered it, carefully get it out of the pot. Healthy roots are white and resilient; if they are rotten, they are black and soft and have a strange odor. When you find rotten roots, immediately cut off the rotten part, sterilize it, and replant it in dry soil.  The “right way to water” succulents  Keep in mind the principle of “watering through dryness.”  Wait until the soil is completely dry, and then water until the water runs out of the bottom of the pot. This allows the root system to drink enough water and does not keep the soil half-dry and half-wet, reducing the risk of rotting roots. But don't water for too long, or the soil will be too wet and hard to dry, easy for black rot. Freshly potted succulent, do not rush to water, wait a week, and then, according to the soil's dry and wet situation, decide.  Choose the right tool, and half the effort  A fine spout watering can or syringe is a “watering artifact” that can accurately control the flow of water, along the edge of the pot, slowly water, and does not pour water into the leaves. If the water droplets are accidentally left in the middle of the leaves, quickly blow dry with your mouth or take a paper towel to dry; otherwise the sunlight, the sunlight will be “disfigured”.  Flexible adjustment, raise the “exclusive rhythm”  More observation, more summarization, combined with the season, the environment, and plant conditions, to find the most suitable for their own succulent watering routine. The One Bloom has prepared a super-practical succulent maintenance kit, that not only has good succulent varieties, but also professional granular soil and watering cans, to help you easily! The One Bloom has prepared a super practical succulent care kit for you!

Los fines de semana, al regar las plantas del balcón, sostengo la maceta y dudo un momento: ¿Regarla más hará que crezca más vibrante? Pero a los pocos días, las hojas se vuelven transparentes y blandas... ¡No te preocupes! Muchos aficionados a las suculentas han caído en la falsa creencia de que les gusta la humedad. Hoy te ayudaremos a comprender las verdaderas preferencias de las suculentas y a cultivar estas adorables plantitas regordetas y sanas. Entendiendo el “miedo a la humedad” de las suculentas a través de sus orígenes desérticos La mayoría de las suculentas son originarias de regiones áridas como los desiertos de Sudáfrica y el suroeste de Estados Unidos, donde soportan la intensa luz solar y la escasez de lluvia durante todo el año. Para sobrevivir, han desarrollado una capacidad excepcional para almacenar agua: sus hojas y tallos gruesos actúan como "minidepósitos", reteniendo firmemente la humedad que logran obtener. Esto también les ha otorgado una característica fisiológica única: toleran la sequía, pero temen la humedad. Cuando el suelo permanece constantemente húmedo, el sistema radicular de la suculenta no puede respirar correctamente, como si una persona se tapara la boca y la nariz, lo que provoca problemas como la pudrición radicular y la podredumbre negra. Sin embargo, ¡no todas las suculentas son igualmente sensibles al agua! La mayoría de las especies de la familia Crassulaceae, como la Echeveria Pink Rubby y la Echeveria Laui , tienen una gran tolerancia a la sequía, mientras que especies como la Haworthia truncata, la Haworthia heidelbergensis y las Lithops de la familia Aizoaceae requieren una humedad ligeramente superior durante su crecimiento y prefieren un ambiente ligeramente húmedo. Por lo tanto, antes de cuidarlas, es fundamental determinar a qué categoría pertenece tu suculenta para poder regarla adecuadamente. Consejos para el manejo de la humedad en el cuidado interior y exterior En la jardinería doméstica estadounidense, el cultivo de suculentas en interiores es bastante común. Los ambientes secos de habitaciones con calefacción o aire acondicionado son, de hecho, ventajosos para las suculentas. Sin embargo, ¡no asuma que las condiciones secas significan que puede regar sin cuidado! Para determinar si es necesario regar, siga estos dos consejos: primero, observe el estado de las hojas; cuando las hojas, antes gruesas, comiencen a ablandarse, es señal de deficiencia de agua. Segundo, introduzca un palillo en la tierra; si la base está húmeda al sacarlo, no se apresure a regar. Al regar, elija una mañana soleada, riegue lentamente a lo largo del borde de la maceta hasta que esté completamente saturada, dejando que el exceso de agua drene por los agujeros de drenaje para evitar el encharcamiento. Si cultiva suculentas al aire libre en el jardín, preste especial atención a los cambios de clima. Durante los períodos de lluvia prolongada, incline las macetas o colóquelas bajo un alero para evitar la lluvia; después de una lluvia intensa, retire rápidamente el agua de las hojas para evitar que se pudran. En las regiones húmedas del sur, use una mezcla de tierra granular (como roca volcánica o diatomita) y turba para mejorar la aireación del suelo y facilitar el drenaje del exceso de agua. Conceptos erróneos comunes sobre la humedad Mito 1: Rociar agua puede mantener la humedad. Rociar con frecuencia gotas de agua sobre las hojas, que permanecen en el centro, puede causar pudrición fácilmente. Solo en condiciones extremadamente secas y durante el período de crecimiento de la suculenta se debe rociar ligeramente ocasionalmente para aumentar la humedad. Mito 2: ¿Usar una bandeja para retener agua? Algunos aficionados a las plantas, por comodidad, dejan el agua en la bandeja debajo de la maceta durante largos periodos, ¡sumergiendo así las raíces de la suculenta! Lo correcto es vaciar el agua restante de la bandeja 10 minutos después de regar. Mito 3: ¿El mantillo de musgo es más estético? Si bien el musgo puede mejorar la estética, retiene la humedad e impide que la tierra respire. Si debe usarlo, aplique solo una capa fina y elija una maceta de arcilla transpirable para plantar. Con estas técnicas de control de humedad, ¡no tendrás que preocuparte por regar tus suculentas la próxima vez! Verlas crecer hojas gruesas y brotar delicados brotes en el ambiente adecuado te dará una sensación de logro.

Como entusiasta estadounidense de la jardinería que una vez regresó de un viaje de negocios de dos semanas y encontró sus suculentas en mejor estado que nunca, sé de primera mano que la pregunta de "¿cuánto tiempo pueden aguantar las suculentas sin riego?" es a la vez intrigante y desconcertante. Ya sea en un solario en California, una terraza en Texas o un ventanal en un apartamento de Nueva York, todos esperamos encontrar una respuesta universal, pero la realidad es que cada suculenta es única. Este artículo te explicará los secretos de la tolerancia a la sequía de las suculentas desde la perspectiva de los cambios estacionales y las diferencias entre variedades. Factores clave que afectan la duración de la tolerancia a la sequía de las suculentas La “magia dual” de la estación y el clima En las regiones secas del Medio Oeste estadounidense, incluso las variedades más tolerantes a la sequía pueden marchitarse como caramelos de goma en dos semanas durante el calor del verano. Sin embargo, durante el otoño y el invierno, especialmente en las regiones húmedas de la Costa Este, algunas suculentas pueden sobrevivir sin agua durante dos o tres meses. Un amigo mío en Boston experimentó una vez: colocó una planta de jade en el alféizar de una ventana orientada al norte y no la regó de noviembre a enero del año siguiente; aun así, las hojas permanecieron tersas y translúcidas. La variedad determina los "genes resistentes a la sequía" Las diferentes variedades de suculentas tienen una tolerancia a la sequía muy diferente. Por ejemplo, Los Lithops (también conocidos como "flores de la base") son auténticos "maestros de la supervivencia en el desierto", con una excepcional capacidad de almacenamiento de agua, capaces de aguantar de uno a dos meses sin riego, incluso en verano. Por otro lado, variedades como la Hoya carnosa y la Crassula ovata, a menudo denominadas "tipos delicados", tienen hojas delgadas y poca capacidad de almacenamiento de agua. Pueden perder las hojas si no se riegan durante una semana en verano y requieren riego cada 10 días en primavera y otoño. Los "factores ocultos" de las macetas y las mezclas de tierra Las macetas y la tierra que uses también influyen discretamente en la frecuencia de riego. En mi invernadero de suculentas en Los Ángeles, observé que las Echeverias cultivadas en macetas de cerámica con tierra granulada requerían riego semanal debido a la poca permeabilidad al aire de la cerámica y al rápido drenaje de la tierra granulada. Sin embargo, la misma variedad, cultivada en macetas de arcilla roja, podía aguantar dos semanas sin riego sin problema. Pautas de riego para diferentes escenarios Cuidado en casa: Incluso las personas perezosas pueden cultivar suculentas bien Si eres como yo y trabajas de 9 a 5, te recomiendo elegir variedades resistentes como Chihuahua u Onsno . Riega abundantemente cada 10-14 días en verano y amplía el intervalo a 3-4 semanas en invierno. Al regar, usa una regadera de pico estrecho para verter el agua lentamente por el borde de la maceta, permitiendo que penetre bien. Soluciones de emergencia para viajes de negocios: 3 consejos para el riego automático ¿Te vas de casa por más de una semana? ¡Tranquilo! Aquí tienes algunos métodos que suelo usar: coloca las suculentas en una bandeja con poca agua, usa el sifón para reponer la humedad lentamente o usa un hilo de algodón con un extremo sumergido en una botella de agua y el otro enterrado en la tierra. La opción más sencilla es comprar un riego automático por goteo, ajustar la velocidad de goteo y olvidarte de los desastres de macetas vacías. Plantación al aire libre: Cuidado con las trampas climáticas Quienes cultivan suculentas al aire libre deben prestar especial atención a los cambios climáticos. En la temporada de lluvias de Florida, puede llover sin parar durante una semana, así que, aunque las hojas de las suculentas se arruguen, no se apresure a regarlas; con el calor de 40 °C de Arizona, incluso los cactus resistentes a la sequía pueden marchitarse en una semana, lo que requiere ajustes flexibles en la frecuencia de riego. ¿Cómo determinamos cuándo las suculentas necesitan riego? Señales de las hojas: Pellizque suavemente las hojas; si se sienten suaves y arrugadas, es hora de regar; si las hojas están firmes y regordetas, indica suficiente humedad. Peso de la maceta: Después de regar, la maceta debería sentirse notablemente más pesada; a medida que se evapora la humedad, debería sentirse más ligera. Levante la maceta para notar los cambios de peso. Análisis de suelo: Inserte un palillo en la tierra a 2-3 centímetros de profundidad. Si la tierra está húmeda, no es necesario regar. Si está seca y blanca, es hora de regar. El secreto de la tolerancia a la sequía de las suculentas reside en su capacidad de adaptación para sobrevivir en entornos extremos. En lugar de fijarte en un número determinado de días, observa y experimenta más para encontrar la rutina de cuidado óptima para tus suculentas. Antes de tus próximas vacaciones, ¿por qué no pruebas un "desafío de retención de agua"? ¡Te sorprenderán los resultados! Comparte tus experiencias con el cuidado de tus suculentas en la sección de comentarios. ¡Convirtamos juntos plantas de bajo mantenimiento en vegetación sofisticada!