Common Succulent Problem

Looking at that accidentally touched succulent leaf in the pot, you suddenly wonder: can you grow a new succulent from it? In fact, propagating succulents from leaves is the most amazing and cost-effective way -- a tiny leaf, after patience, can grow roots and buds, and eventually become a full plant. Whether you're looking to expand your succulent collection or rescue a leaf you accidentally bumped off, leaf plugs are the perfect choice. Today, we'll show you how to grow succulents from leaves, explaining every step from leaf selection to transplanting, so that even novices can get started easily. Why do leaves grow succulents? It's a “special skill” of succulents  Succulents store a lot of water and nutrients in their leaves, which gives them the ability to “reproduce asexually” -- even if they are detached from the mother plant, as long as the leaves are healthy and in the right environment, they can induce roots and new shoots. This is just like the ability of some plants to take cuttings, except that succulents have “given” this ability to their leaves. Different species of succulents have different success rates in leaf plugging. Most species in the Sedum family (e.g., Hazel Moon, Winter Beauty) have a very high success rate in leaf plugging, while the genus Haworthia (e.g., Jade Dew) is relatively difficult to do so, but as long as you do it the right way, you can try to do it successfully.  Preparation before leaf insertion: choosing the right leaves and tools is the key  Selecting “qualified” leaves Not all leaves can be successfully leaf-inserted; choosing the right leaves is the first step: Condition: Choose healthy, full, undamaged leaves. The thicker the leaves, the more nutrients they store, and the higher the success rate; yellowed, soft, diseased, or broken leaves are basically difficult to survive.  Picking method: Gently break off the leaves from the mother plant, try to keep the leaves intact, especially the base of the leaves (the part connected to the stalk) should not be broken, as this part is the key to rooting and germination. You can pinch the base of the leaf blade with your fingers and gently shake it from side to side to let the leaf blade fall off naturally, avoiding pulling hard enough to cause the base to break.  Varieties: Prioritize varieties that are easy to succeed in leaf plugging, such as Hazel Moon, Winter Beauty, Purple Pearl, Bearberry, etc. The One Bloom's “Leaf-Plugging Specialized Variety Set” contains these, which are good for newbies to practice. Prepare the necessary tools and materials  Container: A shallow tray, plastic box, or small pot will do, as long as it can hold soil and has some depth; the container doesn't need to have drainage holes (you don't need to water a lot in the early stages of leaf insertion).  Soil: Use a mixture of granular soil with good permeability and nutrient soil at a ratio of 1:1 (e.g., The One Bloom's special soil for foliage insertion, with fine granularity, water retention, and permeability). Avoid pure garden soil, which is prone to sloughing and leads to rotting of the leaves.  Other tools: small spray bottle (for spraying water and moisturizing), tweezers (for arranging the leaves to avoid hand injury), carbendazim (optional, for sterilizing the leaves). Detailed Steps for Leaf Plugs: from drying the leaves to waiting for rooting and germination Step 1: Allow the leaves to “heal their wounds.” Freshly picked leaves with wounds at the base are prone to rotting when placed directly on the soil, and need to be dried first:Place the leaves in a ventilated, dry place with diffused light (e.g., by a windowsill) and let the wounds at the base heal naturally. It usually takes 2-3 days to see the wounds become dry and shrink slightly. If you're worried about infection, dip the wound in a little carbendazim powder and let it dry before moving on to the next step.  Step 2: Arrange the leaves and wait for roots to develop Fill the container with prepared soil and gently smooth the surface of the soil without compacting it. Use tweezers to lay the dried leaves flat on the soil surface, with the base of the leaves slightly touching the soil. No need to insert the leaves into the soil (inserting the leaves into the soil is prone to rot), and the leaves can be arranged sparsely to avoid crowding in the later stages of growth. Put the container in a well-ventilated place with diffused light (avoid direct sunlight, or the leaves will be scorched), and keep the temperature at 15-25℃, which is the most suitable temperature for rooting and germination. Step 3: Maintain humidity and wait patiently You do not need to water at the beginning of leaf insertion; just keep the soil slightly dry. If the environment is dry, you can use a spray bottle to gently spray a little water on the soil surface every day to make the soil slightly moist, but do not let the leaves get wet, or they will rot easily. Waiting time varies depending on the variety and environment, fast 1-2 weeks to see white roots emerging from the base of the leaves, slow may take 1-2 months. During this period must have patience, do not turn the leaves frequently. Step 4: See new shoots and roots, continue to care When the leaves have obvious roots and tiny new shoots, the leaf plug is halfway to success: You can increase the soil moisture slightly at this point by wetting the soil around the root system with a spray bottle so that the roots can absorb the water, but still avoid waterlogging the leaves. You can allow the container to receive low light in the morning or evening to promote new shoot growth, but the strong midday light should still be avoided.  Transplanting after leaf insertion: letting the seedlings “grow independently” When the new shoots have grown to a height of 1-2 centimeters and the root system is relatively well developed (2-3 centimeters in length), it is time to transplant the seedlings into separate small pots: Prepare small pots with a caliber of 5-8 cm and fill them with special soil for succulents (The One Bloom's special soil for succulent seedlings, which is 50% granular and suitable for seedlings).  Carefully remove the seedling from the soil with small tweezers, trying not to damage the root system, then dig a small pit in the center of the new pot, place the root system into the pit, and gently fill it with soil so that the seedling can stand firmly.  After transplanting, put the seedling in diffused light for 1-2 weeks, do not water during this period, and then water a little when the soil dries out, and then care for it according to the care of adult succulents.  Common Problems and Solutions for Leaf Plugs Leaf blade watering and rotting This is the most common problem for leaf plugs, mostly caused by unhealthy leaves themselves, wounds that come into contact with water before healing, or high humidity and poor ventilation in the environment.Solution: Immediately remove the watery leaves to avoid infecting other leaves; keep the environment ventilated, reduce the number of water sprays, and allow the soil to dry out properly; and continue to observe the remaining healthy leaves, as long as they have not rotted, they still have a chance to grow roots. Only grow roots but not shoots, or only shoots but not roots This is due to unbalanced environmental conditions: only growing roots may be due to insufficient light, and only growing shoots may be due to insufficient humidity.Solution: If only roots grow, you can slightly increase diffused light (but not direct light); if only shoots grow, you can appropriately increase soil moisture and spray water around with a spray bottle; be patient, and in most cases, roots and shoots will eventually grow. Leaf wilting, but healthy roots and buds During leaf insertion, the mother leaf will gradually wilt, which is normal because all the nutrients from the mother leaf are supplied to the new buds and root system.Solution: Do not pull out the wilted mother leaf, just wait for it to fall off naturally; if the mother leaf is rotting during the wilting process, then you need to remove it carefully to avoid affecting the seedling. 3 Practical Tips to Improve the Success Rate of Leaf Plugs  Control the Temperature and Humidity of the Environment The most suitable temperature for leaf plugs is 15-25℃, and the humidity is kept at 50%-60%. Shades should be used to reduce the temperature in high summer temperatures, and in low winter temperatures, they can be placed in a warm room (e.g., an air-conditioned room), but away from the heating vents, to avoid the air from drying out too much.  Don't disturb frequently During leaf insertion, don't turn over the leaves every day to see if they are rooted and sprouted. Frequent turning will damage the fine roots that have just grown, and will also prevent the leaves from stabilizing and adapting to the environment. You can observe once a week and let the leaves grow quietly at other times.  Choose the right season Spring and autumn is the growing period of succulents, and also the best season for leaf insertion, when the temperature is suitable, the leaf activity is high, and the rooting and germination speed is fast; leaf insertion in the summer is easy to rot, and in the winter, the growth is slow, so newbies are better to try in the spring and fall. Create Your Small Succulent Garden with Leaf Plugs Leaf plugs not only give you more succulents for free, but you can also experience the magical process of going from a leaf to a plant. The One Bloom has succulent varieties as well as soil, containers, and tools specifically for leaf plugs,  which is great for newbies to get started. When you see the first leaf grow a root bud, and as the seedling slowly grows, the sense of accomplishment is unmatched by buying ready-made succulents. Choose a healthy leaf from your home succulent and start your leaf-plugging journey, and soon your windowsill will be filled with your own propagated succulents!

One morning after succulent watering, you suddenly found that the pot had changed -- the tip of the leaf had been kissed by the setting sun, dyed with a touch of playful red; some of the edge of the leaf was red as if bordered, and some, even the whole leaf, was flushed with pink color. This sudden change lets you feel surprise and doubt: Is the succulent growth more energetic, or is it quietly temper tantrum? In fact, succulent turning red is like a wonderful “color magic”, behind which hides different stories, some of which are good news, and some of which we need to pay more attention to. Today, we will unpack the bag of this magic and teach you to read the things that succulents turn red.  Succulents turning red: is it “beauty mode” or “distress signal”?  The color of succulent leaves is like their “expression.” Green is the most relaxed norm, while the appearance of red is often related to changes in the surrounding environment. In a comfortable environment, red is succulent “state burst” performance. The leaves will be fat, hard, bright color eye-catching; but if the environment is not right, red may be succulent in the “frown.” The leaves will be soft, wilted, and even slowly withered. Just as a person's face turns red after exercise is a red face when you are sick, red face needs to be paid attention to. The red color of the succulent also has to be combined with the specific situation to see.  Common conditions that cause succulents to turn red: one by one  “Pretty redness” from sunlight. Most succulents turn red when they get enough sunlight, which is their little trick to protect themselves. Adequate sunlight causes more anthocyanins to grow in the leaves, something that helps them block out too much sunlight while letting the leaves show through in nice colors like red and pink. How to judge: Reddened leaves are hard and bulging to the touch, shiny, the color starts from the tips or edges of the leaves and swooshes out a little bit towards the middle, and the whole pot of succulents looks very spirited, with none of the leaves drooping or rotting. What to do: This is a succulent showing off its good condition, so don't worry about it! If you want the red color to stand out more, keep letting it get some sunlight (a little bit in the middle of the day in the summer), and a south-facing windowsill is perfect. If you don't have enough sunlight at home, the succulent fill light ($20-$30) can help. Shine it 30 centimeters away from the succulent, and the red color will still come out.  Cooler temperatures deliver “red cheeks.” When the weather gets cooler, especially when the temperature difference between morning and evening gets bigger, succulents will save up some anthocyanins to ward off the coolness, and the leaves will follow suit and turn red. Autumn is the most powerful time for succulents to turn red. A cool wind blows, and many Sedum family succulents will change from green to red, as if stained by autumn paint. How to tell: The red color mostly appears at the end of fall and the beginning of winter, and the leaves are very uniform in color, quite firm to the touch, and don't look frozen and transparent or rotten. What to do: This is a little surprise from the season, so don't worry about enjoying it. As long as the temperature doesn't fall below 5℃ and you don't let the succulent freeze, there's no problem. Water less when it is cooler, and let the potting soil dry out a little. The red color will stay longer. “Thirsty Alert” When Dehydrated  If you haven't watered your succulent for a while and the potting soil dries out to the point of cracking, the succulent will shrink its leaves a bit to reduce water evaporation while growing anthocyanins to protect itself, and the tips and edges of the leaves may turn red. The red color at this time is more like a succulent whispering, “I'm thirsty”. How to tell: The reddened leaves are a bit wrinkled and soft, and the surface of the potting soil is hard. After a day or two of watering, the red color will slowly fade and the leaves will bulge again. What to do: water the succulent quickly, slowly water along the edge of the pot until the water flows out from the bottom of the pot, and put it in a ventilated place after watering. Normally, you can take a chopstick and stick it 2 centimeters into the soil. If the chopstick is dry, it means it's time to water, so don't wait until it turns red with thirst. The “Little Effects” of Soil Acidity and Alkalinity  Whether the soil is acidic or alkaline can quietly affect the absorption of nutrients by succulents and indirectly make a difference in the color of the leaves. Some succulents (e.g., Purple Pearl, Evening Haze) will have a brighter red color in somewhat acidic soil; when the soil is alkaline, the red color may fade a bit, but it's usually less noticeable. How to tell: The red color changes very slowly, the leaves are growing well and not rotting or wilting, and you may have recently changed the soil or applied a somewhat acidic fertilizer. What to do: You don't need to do anything on purpose; succulents are not that delicate. If you want to make the soil a bit acidic, just pour some fermented rice water occasionally, or use The One Bloom's special soil for succulents (it is a bit acidic and most succulents like it).  Pests and diseases make “bad color.”  A few times, succulents are bitten by bugs or become sick; they will turn red locally, and also with spots, pits, wilting, and these faults, which are the reaction of the leaves after injury.How to judge: the red color is piece by piece, bit by bit; the shape is messy, the leaves are soft and curly; there may be small holes or white flotsam (insect secretion), and the growth is much slower. What to do: Look at the back of the leaves and use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to wipe them down if there are a few bugs; if there are a lot of bugs, spray them with The succulent insecticide ($10-$15). If it gets sick, cut off the bad leaves and spray it with a bit of polymyxin so it doesn't spread.  Small characteristics of different succulents that turn red  The succulents that love to turn red: they are born “love to dress up.” Fire Festival, Red Leaf Festival, Rainbow Jade, these succulents are born easy to turn red, when there is enough sunlight and a big difference in temperature, the leaves will become red, or even the whole pot is red, this is their healthy look, the redder it is, it means that the better the maintenance is.  Do not love red succulents: love “green clothes.” Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii. This Haworthia, most of whose leaves have always been green or a little transparent, even if the sun is very full, also seldom turns red. If they turn red, most of the sun is too sunny or lack of water; you have to move to a place with a bit of diffused light, appropriate watering.  Succulents with powder: red “veiled” Echeveria Laui, Guanghan Palace. These leaves with powder succulents, when red, powder will be a light red underneath, like a veil, especially good-looking. Don't touch the powder off when watering, or the red color will be directly exposed and may be faded by strong sunlight.  Tips to keep succulents healthy and red  Create a “morning and evening temperature difference.” A temperature difference of more than 10℃ in the morning and evening will make the succulent grow more anthocyanins. In autumn, you can put your succulent outside (at a temperature of no less than 5°C), in the sun during the day and cool air at night, and you will see the color change in a week or so. In winter, put it by the window and take advantage of the temperature difference between inside and outside the house (don't freeze); the red color will stay longer.  Light “no more, no less is just right. Let succulent sunshine 4-6 hours a day, summer noon, do not get sunshine (afraid of sun bad), winter can be all day sunshine (and warm, and can make the color better). If you don't have enough sunlight, use a fill-in lamp for 6 hours a day, 30 centimeters away, not too close to avoid sunburning the leaves.  Watering “when it's dry.” During the growing period, wait until the potting soil is dry before watering. Keep the potting soil a little bit dry; a proper “little thirst” will make the succulent easier to turn red, and the leaves are also stronger. But don't stop watering all the time, or the leaves will be wrinkled like paper and the red color will lose its spirit.  Enjoy the “little color blessings” of succulents turning red  Succulents turning red is a little gift from nature, both in terms of healthy awesomeness and hints of environmental changes. By learning to read the reasons behind the red color, you can keep your succulents looking beautiful all the time. The One Bloom not only has things like succulent-specific soils, but also has a “succulent combo that turns red easily” ($25-$35), which makes it easy for novices to keep them looking nice and red. Observe with care and adjust slowly; you will find that the red color of succulents can add a lot of life to your home, and keeping succulents becomes a thing full of surprises.

Early in the morning to succulent watering, you suddenly found that the edges of the leaves with a faint yellow, A closer look, several leaves had lost the fullness of the previous day's luster -- this in the end what was going on? Obviously, every day, careful care, succulent but still turned yellow, really makes people anxious. In fact, succulent leaves turn yellow because they are “passing signals”, behind which hides the maintenance of small problems. Today, crack these signals one by one to help you find out the reasons why succulents turn yellow so that they rejuvenate.  Common causes and solutions for succulents turning yellow  Too much watering, root system “drowning” What succulents are most afraid of is waterlogged potting soil, the root system can't breathe when it's soaked in water for a long time, and then it will rot and can't absorb the nutrients and water, and the leaves will start to turn yellow from the bottom, soften, and come off easily when touched with your hand.Judgment: The potting soil is sticky and wet, with a slight musty smell, and the yellowed leaves are concentrated at the bottom and feel soft and rotten. Solution: Immediately stop watering, take the succulent out of the pot, cut off the rotted roots, soak it in carbendazim solution for 10 minutes to sterilize it, and then replace it with The One Bloom's succulent-specific granular soil (70% granular, highly breathable), repot it, put it in a ventilated place, and do not water it for a week.  Improper lighting, either sunburn or lack of light  Too much light: Strong light in the middle of the day in summer can burn succulent leaves, causing them to develop yellow-brown spots or turn yellow at the edges. Judgment: The yellowed leaves are mostly on the side facing the sun, with obvious scorching marks. Solution: Move the succulent to a place with plenty of diffused light, such as an east-facing windowsill, avoiding direct midday sunlight. Slightly sunburned leaves can be retained, while severely burned ones should be cut off. Insufficient light: Succulents that have been placed in the shade for a long period of time will have leaves that are thin, yellow, and dull in color, which is caused by insufficient photosynthesis. Judgment: The leaves are yellowish overall, and the stalks are slender and growing at an angle toward the direction of light. Solution: Allow the succulent to receive 3-4 hours of diffused light per day, or use a plant filler light ($20-30), about 30 centimeters away from the plant, for 5 hours per day.  Improper fertilization: either burns the roots or lacks fertilizer.  Too much fertilizer: High concentrations of fertilizer can burn the root system, causing the tips of the leaves to turn yellow or even scorch black, often starting with the new leaves. Judgment: If you have recently applied fertilizer, the new leaves will turn yellow first, and the leaves will have scorched spots. Solution: Rinse the potting soil with water, dilute the concentration of fertilizer, and change the soil if it is serious. After that, you should follow the principle of “thin fertilizer and diligent application” in applying fertilizer, and choose The One Bloom's succulent-specific slow-release fertilizer, which can be applied once a month. Lack of fertilizer: long-term, without fertilizer, the potting soil will not have enough nutrients, succulent leaves will turn yellow, slow growth, and a light color. Judgment method: leaves uniformly yellow, no scorched spots, the plant is overall weak. Solution: Apply diluted liquid fertilizer once a month during the growing period to replenish nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium elements, so that the leaves can regain their full color.  Soil sloughing, root system “lack of oxygen” Potting soil is not replaced for a long time, it will become hard, with poor permeability, the root system can not stretch, can not absorb enough oxygen and nutrients, and the leaves will slowly turn yellow.Judgment method: water penetration is very slow when watering, the surface of the potting soil is dry and cracked, and the yellowed leaves are more evenly distributed. Solution: Change the pot in time, use The One Bloom's special nutrient soil for succulents (containing peat, perlite, and vermiculite, loose and breathable), and gently break up the old soil around the roots when changing pots, so that the new soil is closely combined with the roots.  Pests and diseases attack, leaves are “nibbled”  Pests such as mesquite and red spider will suck the sap from succulent leaves, causing yellow spots on the leaves, and in severe cases, the whole leaf turns yellow and wilts; fungal diseases will also cause yellow spots to appear on the leaves, which will gradually expand.Judgment method: There are tiny insect bodies or white flocculent material on the leaves, and the yellow spots are irregular in shape and will gradually spread. Solutions: For a small number of pests, wipe the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol; for a larger number of pests, use The One Bloom's Succulent Specialty Insecticide ($10-$15) and spray according to the directions; for diseases, cut off the diseased leaves in a timely manner and spray with a carbendazim solution to control the disease. Special Precautions for Different Types of Succulents Turning Yellow  Seedling Succulents Seedling succulents have a fragile root system and are prone to rotting and turning yellow with a little bit of watering, so you need to control the watering strictly, keep the potting soil slightly dry, and once you find the yellowing, check the root system immediately and change the soil in time.  Old pile succulents Old pile bottom leaves occasionally turn yellow is normal metabolism, belongs to natural aging, as long as the top leaves are healthy, do not have to deal with it; but if the top leaves suddenly turn yellow, mostly light or watering problems, adjust in time.  Succulents with powdered leaves The white powder on the leaves of this type of succulent can protect the leaves, when watering, if you directly rinse the leaves, the white powder will be washed away, the loss of protection of the leaves is easy to be sunburned and turn yellow, watering should be poured along the edge of the pot to avoid touching off the white powder.  3 Practical Tips to Prevent Succulents from Turning Yellow  Regular Inspection, Early Detection, and Early Treatment Spend a few minutes each week to observe the state of succulent leaves, focusing on the bottom of the leaves to see if there are signs of yellowing and softening. Once found abnormal, a timely investigation of the causes to avoid the expansion of the problem.  Reasonable matching of potting soil and pots pots choose breathable red ceramic pots or plastic pots with side holes, soil with granular soil and nutrient soil mix (the ratio is adjusted according to the variety, dry-loving varieties of particles accounted for a high proportion of the species, wet-loving varieties a little lower), from the root of the reduction of yellowing problems caused by excessive watering and soil crusting.  Follow the principle of “rather dry than wet, rather less than more.” Watering and fertilizing should be restrained, succulent drought intolerant, waterlogging intolerant, barren intolerant, not tolerant of fertilizers, would rather less watering, less application, but also do not over-care, which is the key to preventing succulent yellowing.  Make yellowing succulents beautiful again  Seeing succulents slowly recover from yellowing to bright green, that sense of accomplishment is self-evident. The One Bloom not only has succulent-specific soil and fertilizer, but also has professional care manuals, which can help you solve all kinds of succulent care problems. In fact, the process of raising succulents is a process of constant observation and adjustment. As long as you treat it with care, you can easily cope with the situation even if the leaves turn yellow. Go check your succulents now, follow the above methods to find out the cause, and make them come back to life!

¡Hola, amantes de las plantas! Si alguna vez han mirado fijamente una suculenta querida y han encontrado un montón de hojas caídas en el fondo de la maceta, no se preocupen; no están solos. La caída de hojas puede ser una verdadera preocupación, ¡pero no se asusten! Las suculentas son resistentes, y abordar la raíz del problema es el primer paso para ayudar a su "pequeña amiga verde" a recuperarse. Aquí les presentamos un análisis detallado de las causas comunes de la caída de hojas y las soluciones correspondientes. Riego excesivo: el asesino invisible Una de las causas más comunes de la caída de hojas en las suculentas es el riego excesivo. A diferencia de muchas otras plantas de interior, las suculentas están adaptadas a sobrevivir en ambientes áridos, donde almacenan agua a través de sus gruesas hojas y tallos. Cuando las suculentas se riegan con demasiada frecuencia o se dejan en tierra encharcada durante períodos prolongados, sus raíces comienzan a pudrirse, lo que a su vez provoca la caída de las hojas. ¿Cómo saberlo? Las hojas que se amarillean, se vuelven flácidas y se caen con facilidad son signos típicos de exceso de riego. Si observa alguno de estos síntomas, retire con cuidado la planta de la maceta e inspeccione las raíces. Un sistema radicular sano debe ser fuerte y blanco; si las raíces son marrones, viscosas o desprenden un olor desagradable, es probable que se haya podrido la raíz. Cómo solucionarlo. Primero, deje de regar inmediatamente y deje que la tierra se seque por completo. En el caso de plantas con podredumbre radicular grave, puede que tenga que cortar las raíces dañadas, dejar secar las partes sanas restantes durante uno o dos días y esperar a que las heridas cicatricen antes de trasplantarlas a tierra nueva y bien drenada. Si riega en el futuro, asegúrese de esperar a que la tierra esté seca antes de volver a regar. Una forma fácil de comprobarlo es introducir el dedo entre 2,5 y 5 cm en la tierra. Si la tierra aún está húmeda, no la riegue. Riego insuficiente: plantas sedientas Por otro lado, la falta de riego también puede provocar la pérdida de hojas en las suculentas. Cuando una suculenta no recibe suficiente agua, pierde sus hojas viejas para conservar el agua para el resto de la planta. ¿Cómo saberlo? Las hojas secas, arrugadas, quebradizas y que empiezan a caerse son señal de deshidratación. Toda la planta también lucirá más opaca y seca de lo habitual. Cómo solucionarlo. Remoja bien tus suculentas. Coloca la maceta en una bandeja llena de agua y deja que la tierra absorba el agua del fondo. Remójala durante unos 15 a 20 minutos y escurre el exceso de agua después. En el futuro, desarrolla un programa de riego regular adaptado a tu especie de suculenta y a las condiciones ambientales específicas de tu hogar. Algunas suculentas pueden requerir riego cada dos semanas, mientras que otras pueden regarse a intervalos más largos. Problemas de iluminación: demasiada o muy poca Las suculentas necesitan abundante luz solar para prosperar, pero la luz excesiva o insuficiente puede causar problemas. Demasiada luz Si sus suculentas se exponen a la luz solar directa e intensa durante largos periodos, especialmente en verano, pueden sufrir quemaduras solares. Las hojas quemadas desarrollarán manchas marrones o negras y eventualmente se caerán. Luz insuficiente La luz insuficiente puede provocar un crecimiento inútil de la planta, es decir, que intente crecer hacia arriba en un esfuerzo desesperado por obtener más luz. En este proceso, las hojas inferiores amarillean y se caen, ya que la planta centra su energía en crecer más alto. Cómo solucionarlo. Si su suculenta recibe demasiada luz, trasládela a un lugar con luz difusa, como cerca de una ventana con cortinas finas o un patio con sombra. Si no hay suficiente luz, auméntela gradualmente. Inicialmente, colóquela en un área con luz indirecta durante unas horas al día y luego aumente gradualmente las horas de luz durante una o dos semanas. temperaturas extremas Las suculentas son sensibles a las temperaturas extremas. Los vientos fríos, las heladas o el calor excesivo pueden estresarlas, lo que a su vez puede provocar la caída de las hojas. ¿Cómo saberlo? En temperaturas frías, las hojas pueden oscurecerse, ablandarse o volverse transparentes. En ambientes cálidos, la planta puede mostrar signos de marchitamiento, con hojas que se secan y caen más rápidamente. Cómo solucionarlo. Durante los meses de invierno, mantén tus suculentas alejadas de rejillas de ventilación, puertas y ventanas para evitar la exposición directa al aire frío. Si en tu zona hace frío, traslada las suculentas de exterior al interior o mantenlas calientes. Durante los meses de verano, asegúrate de que tus suculentas no estén cerca de fuentes de calor, como radiadores, ni en espacios cerrados y demasiado cargados. Busca un lugar con temperaturas moderadas, idealmente entre 15 y 27 °C. Plagas y enfermedades Plagas como pulgones, cochinillas y arañas rojas pueden atacar a las suculentas, succionando la savia de las hojas, debilitándolas y provocándoles la caída. Las enfermedades causadas por hongos y bacterias también suelen atacar a las suculentas en ambientes húmedos o mal ventilados. ¿Cómo saberlo? Esté atento a pequeños insectos, telarañas o residuos pegajosos en las hojas. Las manchas decoloradas, el moho o un olor desagradable en las hojas pueden indicar una infección fúngica o bacteriana. Cómo solucionarlo. Si se trata de una plaga, limpie las hojas con un hisopo de algodón humedecido en alcohol o use un insecticida en aerosol. En caso de infecciones fúngicas o bacterianas, corte las partes infectadas inmediatamente y mejore la ventilación alrededor de la planta. También podría ser necesario tratar la planta con un fungicida o bacteriostático según las instrucciones del producto. Envejecimiento natural A veces, la caída de hojas es parte normal del ciclo de vida de una suculenta. A medida que la planta crece y las hojas nuevas siguen creciendo en la parte superior, las hojas más viejas de la parte inferior se amarillean gradualmente y se caen. No hay de qué preocuparse; retire con cuidado las hojas caídas para mantener la planta limpia. Recuerda que cada suculenta es única, y encontrar el mejor cuidado puede requerir algo de prueba y error. Presta mucha atención a las necesidades de la planta y aborda los problemas conforme surjan, y tendrás una suculenta sana, próspera y llena de vida. Si tienes otros consejos o experiencias con suculentas que pierden hojas, ¡compártelos en la sección de comentarios! ¡Ayudemos a estas "bebés verdes" a crecer sanas y florecer de maravilla!

Las suculentas secas no son un problema, solo expresan una necesidad. Al solucionar el problema según el clima local, los hábitos de riego y las prácticas de cuidado de las plantas, puedes revitalizarlas. Recuerda, cada hoja amarillenta es una lección aprendida, y cada suculenta jugosa y llena es un testimonio de tus habilidades de jardinería. ¡Toma tu regadera, ajusta las cortinas de sombra y prepárate para que tus suculentas vuelvan a florecer!