Looking at the succulent plant on the windowsill, its stems are long and thin, and its leaves are sparse, completely losing their original compact and full appearance; another pot has too many branches, making it look messy and disorganized — it's time to give them a “haircut.” But when you pick up the scissors, you hesitate: where should you start? What if you cut it wrong? In fact, pruning is an important way to keep succulents healthy and attractive, much like “shaping and toning” for plants. It not only makes the plant more aesthetically pleasing but also promotes growth. Today, we’ll guide you step-by-step on how to prune succulents, from determining the right timing to the actual process, making it easy for beginners to master. 

Why prune succulents? These benefits will tell you the answer. 

Pruning is not “harmful” to succulents but rather a “boost,” with the following main benefits: 

• Shaping an aesthetically pleasing form: Trimming excessively long stems and overly dense branches helps succulents maintain a compact, symmetrical shape, enhancing their ornamental value. 
  
• Promoting branching growth: Removing the top branches stimulates the base to sprout new side branches, transforming the succulent from a “single stem” into a “clump,” making it more full and lush. 
  
• Removing diseased or weak tissue: Timely removal of rotting or wilted leaves and branches prevents the spread of pathogens, allowing healthy parts to grow better. 
  
• Controlling plant size: For succulents that grow too quickly and exceed the expected space, pruning can limit their height and width, making them suitable for small-space cultivation.

The best time to prune succulents: timing is crucial

Not all times are suitable for pruning succulents. Choosing the right time can help wounds heal faster and reduce the risk of infection:

• Spring and autumn (growing season): When temperatures are between 15-25°C, succulents grow actively. Pruning at this time allows wounds to heal quickly and new shoots to sprout rapidly, making it the optimal pruning season. 
  
• Summer (high-temperature period): When temperatures exceed 30°C, succulents grow more slowly, and pruning wounds are prone to bacterial infections. Unless there are urgent issues like root rot or disease, pruning is not recommended.
  
• Winter (low-temperature period): When temperatures drop below 10°C, succulents enter dormancy, and pruning wounds heal slowly, potentially causing frostbite. Pruning should be avoided during this period.

Preparation before pruning: Ensure all tools and materials are ready.  

Essential tools  
Scissors/pruning shears: Choose based on the size of the succulent. Use pointed-tip scissors for small succulents (e.g., The One Bloom's succulent-specific small scissors, priced at 5–8 USD), and pruning shears for large, mature plants. Ensure the blades are sharp to avoid tearing or damaging the plant. 
Disinfection supplies: Alcohol swabs and fungicide powder for disinfecting tools and wounds to prevent bacterial infections. 
Other tools are tweezers (for removing wilted small leaves) and gloves (for pruning spiny or toxic succulents). 
Tool disinfection is critical 
Before pruning, wipe the scissors' blades with alcohol swabs. Disinfect the tools again after pruning each succulent, especially after pruning diseased plants, to prevent cross-contamination. 

Pruning methods for different situations: Targeted operations 

Situation 1: Pruning overgrown succulents — Making the stems thicker 
Judgment criteria: The stems are thin and long, the internodes are spaced far apart (the distance between leaves exceeds 1 cm), the leaves at the top are small and sparse, and the whole plant leans to one side. 
Pruning Steps: 
Determine the pruning location: On a sturdy part of the stem (away from the elongated tip), locate a node with leaves (at the base of the leaves), and cut 0.5 cm above the node. 
Wound treatment: Apply a small amount of fungicide powder to the cut surface, place in a well-ventilated area with diffused light, and let dry for 1–2 days until the wound dries and forms a scab. 
Post-pruning care: After drying, place normally. New lateral buds will sprout below the cut surface in 2–3 weeks, and the original stem will gradually thicken. 
Example varieties: Crassula prone to excessive growth, such as Lun Yu, Dong Mei Ren, and Zi Zhen Zhu. 
Scenario Two: Pruning Overcrowded Succulents — Improving Airflow 
Judgment Criteria: Excessive branching, leaves obstructing each other, poor airflow at the base, and even yellowing or rotting leaves. 
Pruning steps: 
Sort branches: Observe the plant to identify inward-growing, overlapping branches, as well as weak or unhealthy branches. 
Selective pruning: Cut these branches from the base, retaining only sturdy, outward-growing, healthy branches to improve airflow and light penetration within the plant. 
Remove leaves: Use tweezers to remove wilted or yellowing leaves at the base to prevent bacterial growth. 
Example varieties: Black Wizard, Copper Pot Wizard, and other succulents prone to overcrowding. 
Situation 3: Pruning weak succulents — Remove damaged parts 
Judgment criteria: Leaves or stems show signs of rot, black spots, insect damage, or root rot, causing partial branch wilting. 
Pruning steps:
Thoroughly remove diseased tissue: Cut off all rotten or diseased branches and leaves 1–2 centimeters below healthy tissue, ensuring no signs of disease remain at the cut site. 
Deep disinfection: Wipe the cut surface with a multi-fungicide solution (concentration 1:500), or soak for 10 minutes and then air-dry.  
Isolation and care: Place the pruned succulents separately, avoiding contact with healthy succulents, until it is confirmed that the disease has not recurred. 
Note: If the roots are rotten, remove the plant from the pot, prune the rotten roots, replace the soil with new soil (The One Bloom's disinfected soil for succulents), and repot the plant. 
Situation 4: Post-flowering pruning — conserving nutrients 
Judgment criteria: After the succulent has bloomed, the flower stem gradually withers, or the plant becomes weak due to excessive nutrient consumption from flowering. 

Pruning steps: 

Cut the flower stem 1 cm above the base to avoid leaving it too long, which can cause rot. 
If the plant is in poor condition after flowering, you can also remove some of the older leaves to reduce nutrient consumption. 
Example species: Most succulents in the Crassulaceae family (such as Lunaria and Winter Beauty) can recover quickly after flowering if pruned promptly. 
Post-pruning care tips: Helping succulents recover 
Wound healing period: Avoid water contact and direct sunlight 
Do not water for 1-2 days after pruning, especially avoid getting water on the wounds, as this can cause rot. 
Place in a well-ventilated area with indirect light (such as a north-facing windowsill), avoiding direct sunlight to prevent the wounds from drying out. 
Promoting new growth: Provide appropriate nutrients 
After the wounds have healed (approximately 3-5 days), water normally but do not fertilize, as the root system is weak at this stage and fertilization may cause fertilizer damage. 
Once new lateral buds emerge (approximately 2-3 weeks), apply a small amount of The One Bloom slow-release fertilizer for succulents to supplement nutrients and promote growth. 
Cuttings: Turn pruned branches into valuable resources 
Do not discard healthy pruned branches and leaves; they can be used for propagation via cuttings:
Branch cuttings: Allow branches to dry for 2–3 days, then insert into potting soil (60% coarse particles), maintaining slightly dry conditions. Roots will form in 2–3 weeks. 
Leaf cuttings: Place healthy leaves on the soil surface. Transplant after roots and shoots develop at the base. 
The One Bloom “Propagation Kit” (includes propagation soil, seedling pots, and rooting powder) enhances propagation success rates, priced at 10-15 USD. 

Pruning Techniques for Different Types of Succulents 

Small Succulents (e.g., Bear Cub, Graptopetalum amethystinum (Rose)Walther) 
Characteristics: Compact plants with delicate stems; handle with care during pruning to avoid damaging healthy leaves. 
Technique: Use sharp-tipped small scissors for gentle pruning. When the plant becomes leggy, trim only the top portion of the stem (no more than 1 cm) to prevent excessive pruning from causing the plant to wilt. 
Large old stems (such as Jade Plant, Old Moon) 
Characteristics: Thick, woody stems with many branches; recovers quickly after pruning. 
Technique: Use pruning shears to boldly trim, removing excessively long or dense branches to promote a more aesthetically pleasing shape for the old stem.
Spiny succulents (such as cacti, cactus balls) 
Characteristics: They have sharp spines that can cause injuries, so proper protection is necessary during pruning. 
Technique: Wear thick gloves, use tweezers to secure the branches, and then prune with scissors to avoid direct contact with your hands; promptly remove fallen spines after pruning to prevent accidental injuries. 
Dense-leaved succulents (e.g., Jade Plant, Buddha's Beads) 
Characteristics: Compact leaves with limited pruning space; primarily prune wilted leaves. 
Technique: Use tweezers to carefully remove wilted or yellowed leaves; do not pull on healthy leaves to avoid damaging the leaf center. 

Common pruning mistakes: Avoid these practices 

• Mistake 1: “Over-pruning” in pursuit of perfection 
  Cutting off too many branches and leaves at once can cause succulents to lose too many nutrients, making it difficult for them to recover and even leading to death. It is recommended that no more than one-third of the plant's total volume be pruned at a time. 
  
• Mistake 2: “Watering and Fertilizing Immediately After Pruning” 
  Watering before wounds have healed can cause rot; fertilizing at this stage can lead to fertilizer damage due to weakened root absorption capacity. Normal care should only resume after wounds have healed. 
  
• Misconception 3: “Using rusty or dull tools for pruning” 
  Rusty tools carry a large number of pathogens that can contaminate wounds; dull tools can tear the plant, causing larger wounds and increasing the risk of infection. Only use sharp, disinfected tools. 
  
• Misconception 4: “Ignoring ventilation after pruning” 
  Pruning wounds require good ventilation to heal quickly; a closed environment can cause wounds to rot, especially after summer pruning, so ventilation must be enhanced (fans can be used). 
  

Beginner pruning tips: Start with the basics 

• Begin with small succulents: varieties like Lun Yu or Dong Mei Ren, which are resilient and can recover even if pruned improperly, are ideal for gaining experience. 
  
• The “less is more” principle: When unsure how much to prune, start with a small amount, observe the results, and then perform a second pruning to avoid damaging the plant in one go. 
  
• Record pruning results: Take before-and-after photos with your phone, record the pruning date and method, and summarize your experience for smoother pruning next time. 

Make pruning a “bonus” for succulent care.  

Pruning is not the goal, but a means to make succulents healthier and more aesthetically pleasing. Once you master the correct pruning techniques, you'll notice your succulents becoming more vibrant and their shapes more attractive over time. The One Bloom “Succulent Pruning Tool Set” (including scissors, tweezers, disinfectant wipes, and fungicide) meets all the pruning needs of beginners, priced at 15-20 USD. In fact, pruning succulents is like giving plants a “haircut.” With a little practice, you'll find the perfect pruning method for each type of succulent, allowing them to adorn your life in their most beautiful form.