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Looking at the succulent plant on the windowsill, its stems are long and thin, and its leaves are sparse, completely losing their original compact and full appearance; another pot has too many branches, making it look messy and disorganized — it's time to give them a “haircut.” But when you pick up the scissors, you hesitate: where should you start? What if you cut it wrong? In fact, pruning is an important way to keep succulents healthy and attractive, much like “shaping and toning” for plants. It not only makes the plant more aesthetically pleasing but also promotes growth. Today, we’ll guide you step-by-step on how to prune succulents, from determining the right timing to the actual process, making it easy for beginners to master.  Why prune succulents? These benefits will tell you the answer.  Pruning is not “harmful” to succulents but rather a “boost,” with the following main benefits:  Shaping an aesthetically pleasing form: Trimming excessively long stems and overly dense branches helps succulents maintain a compact, symmetrical shape, enhancing their ornamental value.  Promoting branching growth: Removing the top branches stimulates the base to sprout new side branches, transforming the succulent from a “single stem” into a “clump,” making it more full and lush.  Removing diseased or weak tissue: Timely removal of rotting or wilted leaves and branches prevents the spread of pathogens, allowing healthy parts to grow better.  Controlling plant size: For succulents that grow too quickly and exceed the expected space, pruning can limit their height and width, making them suitable for small-space cultivation. The best time to prune succulents: timing is crucial Not all times are suitable for pruning succulents. Choosing the right time can help wounds heal faster and reduce the risk of infection: Spring and autumn (growing season): When temperatures are between 15-25°C, succulents grow actively. Pruning at this time allows wounds to heal quickly and new shoots to sprout rapidly, making it the optimal pruning season.  Summer (high-temperature period): When temperatures exceed 30°C, succulents grow more slowly, and pruning wounds are prone to bacterial infections. Unless there are urgent issues like root rot or disease, pruning is not recommended. Winter (low-temperature period): When temperatures drop below 10°C, succulents enter dormancy, and pruning wounds heal slowly, potentially causing frostbite. Pruning should be avoided during this period. Preparation before pruning: Ensure all tools and materials are ready.   Essential tools  Scissors/pruning shears: Choose based on the size of the succulent. Use pointed-tip scissors for small succulents (e.g., The One Bloom's succulent-specific small scissors, priced at 5–8 USD), and pruning shears for large, mature plants. Ensure the blades are sharp to avoid tearing or damaging the plant. Disinfection supplies: Alcohol swabs and fungicide powder for disinfecting tools and wounds to prevent bacterial infections. Other tools are tweezers (for removing wilted small leaves) and gloves (for pruning spiny or toxic succulents). Tool disinfection is critical Before pruning, wipe the scissors' blades with alcohol swabs. Disinfect the tools again after pruning each succulent, especially after pruning diseased plants, to prevent cross-contamination.  Pruning methods for different situations: Targeted operations  Situation 1: Pruning overgrown succulents — Making the stems thicker Judgment criteria: The stems are thin and long, the internodes are spaced far apart (the distance between leaves exceeds 1 cm), the leaves at the top are small and sparse, and the whole plant leans to one side. Pruning Steps: Determine the pruning location: On a sturdy part of the stem (away from the elongated tip), locate a node with leaves (at the base of the leaves), and cut 0.5 cm above the node. Wound treatment: Apply a small amount of fungicide powder to the cut surface, place in a well-ventilated area with diffused light, and let dry for 1–2 days until the wound dries and forms a scab. Post-pruning care: After drying, place normally. New lateral buds will sprout below the cut surface in 2–3 weeks, and the original stem will gradually thicken. Example varieties: Crassula prone to excessive growth, such as Lun Yu, Dong Mei Ren, and Zi Zhen Zhu. Scenario Two: Pruning Overcrowded Succulents — Improving Airflow Judgment Criteria: Excessive branching, leaves obstructing each other, poor airflow at the base, and even yellowing or rotting leaves. Pruning steps: Sort branches: Observe the plant to identify inward-growing, overlapping branches, as well as weak or unhealthy branches. Selective pruning: Cut these branches from the base, retaining only sturdy, outward-growing, healthy branches to improve airflow and light penetration within the plant. Remove leaves: Use tweezers to remove wilted or yellowing leaves at the base to prevent bacterial growth. Example varieties: Black Wizard, Copper Pot Wizard, and other succulents prone to overcrowding. Situation 3: Pruning weak succulents — Remove damaged parts Judgment criteria: Leaves or stems show signs of rot, black spots, insect damage, or root rot, causing partial branch wilting. Pruning steps:Thoroughly remove diseased tissue: Cut off all rotten or diseased branches and leaves 1–2 centimeters below healthy tissue, ensuring no signs of disease remain at the cut site. Deep disinfection: Wipe the cut surface with a multi-fungicide solution (concentration 1:500), or soak for 10 minutes and then air-dry.  Isolation and care: Place the pruned succulents separately, avoiding contact with healthy succulents, until it is confirmed that the disease has not recurred. Note: If the roots are rotten, remove the plant from the pot, prune the rotten roots, replace the soil with new soil (The One Bloom's disinfected soil for succulents), and repot the plant. Situation 4: Post-flowering pruning — conserving nutrients Judgment criteria: After the succulent has bloomed, the flower stem gradually withers, or the plant becomes weak due to excessive nutrient consumption from flowering.  Pruning steps:  Cut the flower stem 1 cm above the base to avoid leaving it too long, which can cause rot. If the plant is in poor condition after flowering, you can also remove some of the older leaves to reduce nutrient consumption. Example species: Most succulents in the Crassulaceae family (such as Lunaria and Winter Beauty) can recover quickly after flowering if pruned promptly. Post-pruning care tips: Helping succulents recover Wound healing period: Avoid water contact and direct sunlight Do not water for 1-2 days after pruning, especially avoid getting water on the wounds, as this can cause rot. Place in a well-ventilated area with indirect light (such as a north-facing windowsill), avoiding direct sunlight to prevent the wounds from drying out. Promoting new growth: Provide appropriate nutrients After the wounds have healed (approximately 3-5 days), water normally but do not fertilize, as the root system is weak at this stage and fertilization may cause fertilizer damage. Once new lateral buds emerge (approximately 2-3 weeks), apply a small amount of The One Bloom slow-release fertilizer for succulents to supplement nutrients and promote growth. Cuttings: Turn pruned branches into valuable resources Do not discard healthy pruned branches and leaves; they can be used for propagation via cuttings:Branch cuttings: Allow branches to dry for 2–3 days, then insert into potting soil (60% coarse particles), maintaining slightly dry conditions. Roots will form in 2–3 weeks. Leaf cuttings: Place healthy leaves on the soil surface. Transplant after roots and shoots develop at the base. The One Bloom “Propagation Kit” (includes propagation soil, seedling pots, and rooting powder) enhances propagation success rates, priced at 10-15 USD.  Pruning Techniques for Different Types of Succulents  Small Succulents (e.g., Bear Cub, Graptopetalum amethystinum (Rose)Walther) Characteristics: Compact plants with delicate stems; handle with care during pruning to avoid damaging healthy leaves. Technique: Use sharp-tipped small scissors for gentle pruning. When the plant becomes leggy, trim only the top portion of the stem (no more than 1 cm) to prevent excessive pruning from causing the plant to wilt. Large old stems (such as Jade Plant, Old Moon) Characteristics: Thick, woody stems with many branches; recovers quickly after pruning. Technique: Use pruning shears to boldly trim, removing excessively long or dense branches to promote a more aesthetically pleasing shape for the old stem.Spiny succulents (such as cacti, cactus balls) Characteristics: They have sharp spines that can cause injuries, so proper protection is necessary during pruning. Technique: Wear thick gloves, use tweezers to secure the branches, and then prune with scissors to avoid direct contact with your hands; promptly remove fallen spines after pruning to prevent accidental injuries. Dense-leaved succulents (e.g., Jade Plant, Buddha's Beads) Characteristics: Compact leaves with limited pruning space; primarily prune wilted leaves. Technique: Use tweezers to carefully remove wilted or yellowed leaves; do not pull on healthy leaves to avoid damaging the leaf center.  Common pruning mistakes: Avoid these practices  Mistake 1: “Over-pruning” in pursuit of perfection Cutting off too many branches and leaves at once can cause succulents to lose too many nutrients, making it difficult for them to recover and even leading to death. It is recommended that no more than one-third of the plant's total volume be pruned at a time.  Mistake 2: “Watering and Fertilizing Immediately After Pruning” Watering before wounds have healed can cause rot; fertilizing at this stage can lead to fertilizer damage due to weakened root absorption capacity. Normal care should only resume after wounds have healed.  Misconception 3: “Using rusty or dull tools for pruning” Rusty tools carry a large number of pathogens that can contaminate wounds; dull tools can tear the plant, causing larger wounds and increasing the risk of infection. Only use sharp, disinfected tools.  Misconception 4: “Ignoring ventilation after pruning” Pruning wounds require good ventilation to heal quickly; a closed environment can cause wounds to rot, especially after summer pruning, so ventilation must be enhanced (fans can be used).  Beginner pruning tips: Start with the basics  Begin with small succulents: varieties like Lun Yu or Dong Mei Ren, which are resilient and can recover even if pruned improperly, are ideal for gaining experience.  The “less is more” principle: When unsure how much to prune, start with a small amount, observe the results, and then perform a second pruning to avoid damaging the plant in one go.  Record pruning results: Take before-and-after photos with your phone, record the pruning date and method, and summarize your experience for smoother pruning next time.  Make pruning a “bonus” for succulent care.   Pruning is not the goal, but a means to make succulents healthier and more aesthetically pleasing. Once you master the correct pruning techniques, you'll notice your succulents becoming more vibrant and their shapes more attractive over time. The One Bloom “Succulent Pruning Tool Set” (including scissors, tweezers, disinfectant wipes, and fungicide) meets all the pruning needs of beginners, priced at 15-20 USD. In fact, pruning succulents is like giving plants a “haircut.” With a little practice, you'll find the perfect pruning method for each type of succulent, allowing them to adorn your life in their most beautiful form. 

Looking at the succulents on the windowsill, you start to worry again: Should I water them today? Was it a week or two weeks ago since the last watering? Indoor succulents don’t have natural rainfall regulation like outdoor ones, so watering is entirely dependent on manual control. Overwatering can cause root rot, while underwatering can lead to wilting. No wonder beginners often say, “Watering is the biggest challenge in caring for succulents.” In fact, there’s no fixed answer for how often to water indoor succulents—it depends on the variety, season, soil, and container. Today, we’ll break down the watering patterns for indoor succulents so you no longer have to worry about “how often to water.”  Indoor succulent watering: The key is to “check the condition” rather than “stick to a schedule.”  Indoor environments are relatively stable (with minimal changes in temperature and light), but ventilation is typically poorer than outdoors, and soil moisture evaporates more slowly. This means that watering frequency should be lower than outdoors. Determining when to water should not rely on a fixed schedule like “once a week,” but rather on observing the plant's condition and soil moisture levels — just as humans drink when they're thirsty, succulents will “tell you” they need water through their leaves.  The 4 Major Factors Affecting Indoor Succulent Watering Frequency  Factor 1: Succulent Variety Determines “Drought Tolerance”  Drought-tolerant succulents: cacti, cactus balls, and moonflowers, etc., whose leaves or stems can store large amounts of water, allowing for longer watering intervals. Watering Frequency: Every 2-3 weeks in spring and fall, every 1-2 weeks in summer (in well-ventilated conditions), and once a month in winter.  Moisture-Loving Succulents: Jade, Buddha's Beads, Bear Cub, etc., with tender leaves that store little water, requiring shorter watering intervals. Watering frequency: 1-2 weeks in spring and autumn, 1 week in summer (small amounts), and 2-3 weeks in winter.  The One Bloom's “Variety Watering Guide”: When purchasing succulents, the label will indicate the variety's drought tolerance level. Beginners can refer to this to adjust the watering frequency. Factor 2: Seasonal changes affect “water requirements” Spring and autumn (growing season): Temperatures range from 15-25°C, succulents grow actively, and water consumption is high, making this the season with the most frequent watering. Summer (high temperature period): If the air conditioner is on indoors (temperature 25-30°C), succulent growth slows down, water evaporation is fast, but root absorption is weak, so watering frequency is slightly lower than in spring and autumn.  Winter (low-temperature period): When temperatures drop below 10°C, succulents enter dormancy, nearly ceasing growth, and watering frequency is significantly reduced (or even suspended). Factor 3: Soil and container affect the “water evaporation rate”  Soil particle ratio: The more particles (such as The One Bloom's succulent-specific soil, with a particle ratio of 60%), the better the air permeability, the faster the water evaporation, and the more frequent the watering; pure peat soil retains water well, so watering should be less frequent.  Container material: Terracotta pots are highly porous, allowing water to evaporate fastest, so watering frequency is highest; plastic and ceramic pots retain moisture well, so watering intervals should be extended (wait an additional 1–2 days compared to terracotta pots).  Container size: Small pots (diameter <10 cm) have less soil, so water evaporates faster, requiring more frequent watering; large pots have more soil, so watering intervals can be longer.  Factor 4: Indoor Environment Determines “Dryness”   Ventilation Conditions: In well-ventilated indoor spaces with open windows and fans, air circulation is good, moisture evaporates quickly, and watering can be slightly more frequent; in enclosed rooms (such as air-conditioned rooms that remain closed for extended periods), watering should be reduced.  Air Humidity: In humid regions (such as the rainy season in southern China), high air humidity slows soil drying, so watering intervals can be extended; in dry regions (such as northern China during winter with heating), moisture evaporates quickly, so that watering can be slightly more frequent (but avoid waterlogging the soil). 3 Signs That Indoor Succulents Need Watering  Sign 1: The soil is arid. How to check: Insert your finger 2 cm into the soil and feel for moisture, or use The One Bloom soil moisture meter (US$10-15) and check that the pointer is in the “dry” zone. Note: Even if it's the “expected watering time,” wait a few more days if the soil is still moist, especially with plastic pots. Signal 2: Leaves show “water deficiency reaction”Drought-tolerant succulents: The bottom leaves become wrinkled and soft, while the top leaves remain plump (e.g., slight indentation around the bottom spines of a cactus).Moisture-loving succulents: The leaves become slightly wrinkled overall and lose their luster (e.g., the surface of a jade plant becomes cloudy and opaque). Exception: If leaves turn yellow, soften, and the soil remains moist, it may indicate root rot rather than water deficiency. Do not water in this case.  Signal 3: The pot feels lighter. Judgment method: Pick up the pot before watering; if it feels significantly lighter (more than half as light as when it was just watered), it indicates that the soil is nearly dry. Suitable scenarios: This method is highly accurate for small-pot succulents (diameter <10 cm); for large-pot succulents, combine with soil inspection.  Watering Frequency Guidelines for Indoor Succulents in Different Conditions Spring and Autumn (15-25°C, well-ventilated) Drought-tolerant varieties + terracotta pots + coarse-grained soil: once every 2 weeks Drought-tolerant varieties + plastic pots + peat moss: once every 3 weeks Moisture-loving varieties + terracotta pots + coarse-grained soil: once a week Moisture-loving varieties + plastic pots + peat moss: once every 1.5 weeks  Summer (25-30°C, with air conditioning or ventilation) Drought-tolerant: Every 2 weeks (small amount, water along the pot edge) Moisture-loving: Every week (avoid midday, choose evening) Note: If the indoor temperature exceeds 35°C in summer, succulents enter dormancy; reduce watering frequency by half (or even stop watering).  Winter (10–15°C, heated room) Drought-tolerant: Once a month (choose sunny midday) Moisture-loving type: Every 2–3 weeks (water temperature should be close to room temperature to avoid cold water shock) Note: When temperatures drop below 10°C, most succulents enter dormancy. Drought-tolerant types should be watered every 1.5–2 months, and moisture-loving types every month (in small amounts).  The “correct way” to water indoor succulents  Watering method: “water along the edge” rather than “watering the leaves” Use a spouted watering can to slowly water along the edge of the pot, allowing the water to drain out from the bottom drainage holes (i.e., “water thoroughly”), avoiding direct contact with the leaves, especially the leaf center (water accumulation can cause rot). For succulents with fuzzy leaves (such as Bear's Paw) and Jade, watering along the edge is essential, as water on the leaves can cause rot. Watering Time: Choose “appropriate temperatures” Spring and Autumn: Morning or evening (avoid midday heat) Summer: Evening (after temperatures have dropped to prevent rapid evaporation) Winter: Midday on sunny days (when water temperature is highest to minimize root stress) After watering, “Enhance ventilation” to prevent root rot After watering, place the succulent near a window or fan (at least 1 meter away) to allow the soil surface to dry within 1-2 days, avoiding prolonged moisture. In enclosed rooms, open a window for 1 hour after watering or use a small fan for 30 minutes. This is crucial for preventing root rot in indoor succulents. Common watering misconceptions: Avoid these practices  Misconception 1: “Water once a week at a fixed time” Watering at a fixed time, regardless of whether the soil is dry, is the main cause of root rot in indoor succulents. Remember: watering frequency is a “reference,” and soil moisture is the “standard.” Misconception 2: “Water heavily when leaves wrinkle.” Wrinkled leaves may indicate water deficiency, but they could also be a sign of root rot (when roots cannot absorb water due to rot, leaves may also wrinkle). If the soil is moist but the leaves are wrinkled, remove the plant from the pot to inspect the roots before watering. Misconception 3: “Using a spray bottle to mist the soil instead of watering”  A spray bottle only moistens the surface soil, and the roots cannot absorb water. Prolonged use of this method can cause succulents to “starve for water”; additionally, water accumulation on the leaves can lead to rot, especially in poorly ventilated indoor environments.  Misconception 4: “Avoiding watering in winter due to fear of freezing” During winter, when indoor temperatures are between 10-15°C, succulents grow slowly but still require a small amount of water (completely withholding water can cause the root system to dry out). Water sparingly during sunny midday hours. Watering techniques for different containers and soils Red clay pot + high-particle soil (good air permeability)Features: Water evaporates quickly, suitable for beginners (even if you water a little too much, it will dry quickly).Tips: Wait 1-2 days after watering until the soil surface dries. Observe the condition of the leaves. If the lower leaves are wrinkled, it means you can shorten the watering interval.  Plastic Pot + Low-Grain Soil (High Water Retention) Features: Slow water evaporation, prone to waterlogging, requires strict control of watering frequency. Tips: Before each watering, check if the soil is dry at depth. Insert a bamboo stick 2 cm into the soil; if it comes out dry, water.  Shallow pots (height < 10 cm) Features: Less soil, dries quickly overall, but prone to waterlogging at the bottom (due to insufficient height and slow drainage). Tip: Water sparingly to avoid waterlogging at the bottom. You can water in two separate sessions (spaced 10 minutes apart) to ensure even absorption. Essential for beginners: Use tools to help determine when to water  Soil moisture meter After inserting it into the soil, the needle directly indicates the moisture level. The One Bloom moisture meter also features light detection functionality (10–15 USD), making it ideal for complete beginners with no prior experience.  Weighing Method Mark the weight of a recently watered succulent (e.g., by attaching a label to the pot to record the weight). Weigh it again before each watering; when the weight approaches half of the dry weight, it’s time to water.  Observation and Record-Keeping Keep a small notebook to record the date of each watering and the succulent’s condition. After accumulating data for 2–3 months, you can summarize a watering schedule suited to your indoor environment.  The Ultimate Tips for Making Indoor Succulent Watering a Breeze   The key to watering indoor succulents is “better dry than wet”—a slight lack of water won’t kill them, but overwatering can lead to root rot and death. If you’re unsure, wait until the bottom leaves show obvious signs of wilting before watering—this is the safest approach. The One Bloom “Succulent Watering Kit” (including a narrow-spouted watering can, humidity meter, and pot bottom pad) can help beginners master watering techniques more easily. In fact, after caring for succulents for a while, you'll find that the condition of the leaves is more reliable than any tool—it's like the understanding between friends; after spending time together, you naturally know whether it's “thirsty” or not.

While cleaning a vase, you suddenly wondered: if water-cultivated pothos can survive, can succulents grow in water? Previously, when you soaked fallen succulent leaves in water, they actually grew roots, but when you submerged the entire succulent in water, it rotted — the relationship between succulents and water is truly enigmatic. In fact, just as some plants are naturally suited to aquatic environments while others can only thrive in soil, whether succulents can grow in water depends on the variety and method. Today, we’ll uncover the secrets of succulent hydroponics, revealing which succulents can survive in water and how to perform hydroponics properly.  Succulents and Hydroponics: Survival Attempts in Special Environments Hydroponics is an “unconventional” growth method for succulents. Soil provides support and aeration for root systems, while in hydroponics, roots are completely submerged or in contact with water, requiring higher oxygen levels. Some succulents can adapt to aquatic environments by adjusting their root structures (growing aerial roots), while others cannot adapt and may develop root rot due to oxygen deficiency. Therefore, whether succulents can grow in water depends on whether their root systems can be induced to adapt to hydroponic conditions. These succulents “can grow in water” and can also survive in hydroponics.    Succulents that are easy to grow in hydroponics: strong root adaptability.   Representative varieties: Crassula, Winter Beauty, Purple Pearl, Jade Tree, and other Crassulaceae succulents, as well as Pothos (though not a succulent, it is often mistaken for one). The roots of these succulents can quickly develop aerial roots in water to absorb oxygen and moisture.   Hydroponic performance: After hydroponic cultivation, new white roots will grow within 1-2 weeks, and the leaves remain plump. Although growth is slower than in soil cultivation, they can survive long-term; under adequate light, the leaf color also remains vibrant.  Hydroponic recommendations: Use a transparent glass bottle or The One Bloom's specialized hydroponic container (with a stand at the bottom so the root system is not fully submerged), allowing half of the root system to be in contact with water and half exposed to air (to increase oxygen absorption); place in diffused light and avoid direct sunlight, which can cause water temperature to rise.   Leaf Cutting Hydroponics: An Attempt from Leaf to Mature Plant  Representative varieties: The leaves of Lun Yu and Dong Meiren have a high success rate for hydroponic leaf cuttings. Method: Place a healthy leaf on the water surface (without touching the water) or allow the base of the leaf to touch the water surface lightly. Place it in a well-ventilated area with diffused light. After 2–3 weeks, roots will form at the base. Once the roots extend into the water, the leaf will gradually sprout new buds.  Notes: After the leaf roots form, maintain a stable water level with half of the roots submerged; once the new shoots grow larger, they can continue in hydroponics or be transplanted into soil. These succulents are “not suitable for hydroponics”; soil cultivation is safer.  Haworthia: Roots rot easily in water.  Representative varieties: Jade Dew, Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia truncata, etc. Their root systems are fragile and cannot obtain sufficient oxygen in water, making them prone to rot.  Hydroponic risks: Within 3–5 days of hydroponic cultivation, leaves become soft, roots turn black, and even reducing water levels cannot reverse the damage, ultimately leading to the entire plant wilting.  Recommendations: Only soil cultivation is suitable, with a high proportion of coarse soil particles (over 60%) to prevent waterlogging in the pot. Succulents with fuzzy or thick leaves: Prone to rot in hydroponic cultivation  Representative varieties: Bear Cub, Graptopetalum amethystinum (Rose)Walther, Echeveria Laui with fuzzy or thick leaves. If leaves come into contact with water during hydroponic cultivation, they are prone to rot; the root system also struggles to adapt to the aquatic environment.  Hydroponic risks: Leaves mold when wet, roots rot due to oxygen deprivation, and survival rates are extremely low.  Recommendations: Strictly use soil cultivation, avoid wetting leaves when watering, and keep the soil slightly. Detailed Steps for Hydroponic Cultivation of Succulents: From Preparation to Maintenance Step 1: Prepare Hydroponic Containers and Tools Containers: Transparent glass bottles (for easy observation of root systems) and hydroponic pots (with planting baskets). Containers should be washed with clean water in advance to avoid contamination of water quality by residual impurities.  Water Quality: Use tap water that has been left to stand for 1-2 days (to remove chlorine), or purified water, or cooled boiled water. Avoid using tap water directly.  Tools: Scissors (for trimming roots), fungicide (for disinfection), planting basket (to secure the plant, optional).  Step 2: Prepare the Plant and Induce Hydroponic Roots  Selecting plants: Choose healthy, pest-free succulents. After removing them from the pot, gently shake off the soil and rinse the roots with clean water (do not scrub vigorously).   Pruning and disinfecting roots: Trim off rotten or aged roots, retaining healthy white roots. Soak the roots in a multi-fungicide solution for 10 minutes, then remove and air-dry for 1-2 days (to allow wounds to heal).  Step 3: Secure the plant and control the water level  Secure: Place the succulent in a container and secure it with a planting basket or foam board (to prevent the plant from tipping over). Ensure that half of the root system is submerged in water and half is exposed to air (a critical step determining the success of hydroponic cultivation).  Initial care: Place in a well-ventilated area with diffused light. Do not change the water for the first 3 days to allow the roots to acclimate to the environment. After 3 days, if the water remains clear, it can be retained; if it becomes cloudy, replace with fresh water.  Step 4: Post-hydroponic care  Water change frequency: Change water once a week in summer, and every 2-3 weeks in winter. Rinse the inner walls of the container during water changes to prevent algae growth; retain 1/3 of the old water each time to help the roots adapt to the water quality.  Light management: Place on an east- or west-facing windowsill to receive 2-3 hours of diffused light daily, avoiding direct sunlight (excessively high water temperatures can cause root oxygen deprivation).  Fertilization: Nutrient levels in hydroponic systems are limited. Apply 1-2 drops of The One Bloom hydroponic-specific nutrient solution (diluted) monthly to prevent water quality deterioration from over-fertilization. Common Issues and Solutions for Hydroponic Succulents  Blackened or Rotten Roots  Cause: Roots are completely submerged in water (oxygen deprivation) or water quality deteriorates due to infrequent water changes.  Solution: Immediately remove the plant, trim off the rotten roots, disinfect with fungicide, let dry for 1 day, replace with fresh water, and adjust the water level (roots should be half-submerged in water); thoroughly clean and disinfect the container. Yellowing and Wilting Leaves  Cause: Insufficient light (preventing photosynthesis) or water temperature below 10°C.  Solution: Move to a location with more diffused light (e.g., near a window); maintain water temperature above 15°C in winter (place indoors in a warm area, avoiding proximity to cold water sources).  Cloudy water and algae growth  Causes: Direct sunlight causes algae proliferation, or excessive fertilization.  Solution: Move to a shaded area, replace the water, and clean the container; reduce fertilization to avoid nutrient solution residue Hydroponics vs. Soil Cultivation: Which is Better for Succulents? Advantages and Disadvantages of Hydroponics Advantages: Clean and tidy, allows observation of root growth, suitable for indoor decoration; easy watering, no need to worry about soil compaction.  Disadvantages: Slow growth rate, roots prone to oxygen deficiency and rot, high requirements for plant varieties, and prolonged hydroponics may weaken the plant.  Advantages and Disadvantages of Soil Cultivation  Advantages: Roots receive ample oxygen, fast growth rate, are suitable for most succulents, are easy to manage, and high survival rate.  Disadvantages: May have soil dust, and improper watering can cause root rot (but easier to control than hydroponics).  Recommendations  Beginners should prioritize soil cultivation and use The One Bloom's succulent-specific soil for higher survival rates. If you want to try hydroponics, start with easy-to-cultivate varieties such as Lun Yu and Dong Mei Ren, and then try other varieties after gaining experience.  Try hydroponics to experience a different kind of care and fun  Hydroponic succulents are an interesting experiment. Watching the roots spread out in water and the leaves come alive under the sun is a unique experience. The One Bloom's “Hydroponic Succulent Kit” (including easy-to-grow hydroponic varieties, containers, and nutrient solution) is perfect for beginners, priced at 20-25 USD. However, remember that most succulents are better suited for soil cultivation. Hydroponics is merely an aesthetic method and not the optimal choice for long-term growth. Whether cultivated in soil or water, understanding the needs of succulents will ensure their healthy growth. Choose a Lunar Moon today and begin your hydroponic journey!  

When watering your succulent, you notice that the roots have started to emerge from the drainage holes, and the potting soil has become as hard as a rock — it’s time to give it a new home. But looking at the delicate leaves and tangled roots, you hesitate: Will transplanting it cause any harm? In fact, transplanting is a “necessary step” in the growth process of succulents, just like how humans need to outgrow their clothes as they grow. Once the roots of a succulent have filled the pot, repotting is the only way for it to continue growing healthily. Today, we'll walk you through the process of transplanting succulents, from determining the right timing to post-repotting care, with each step clearly explained so even beginners can follow along easily.  Why transplant succulents? These signs will tell you the answer. Succulents do not necessarily need to be transplanted every year, but when the following situations occur, they must be repotted in a timely manner: Root system is overgrown: Roots are poking out of the drainage holes, or after removing the plant from the pot, you find that the roots are tangled together (“root ball”), and the soil is squeezed by the roots with no gaps.  Compacted soil: Water penetrates slowly after watering, the soil is hard and loses its porosity, and such soil cannot provide sufficient oxygen to the roots. Stunted growth: The succulent does not grow for a long time, and the leaves turn yellow and soft. After ruling out pests and diseases, it is likely that the soil nutrients have been depleted, and repotting is needed to replenish the soil.  Newly purchased succulents: Succulents purchased online or at flower markets are often grown in temporary nutrient-rich soil. It is best to transplant them into soil suitable for long-term growth upon arrival to avoid issues later on.  Preparation before transplanting: Prepare all necessary tools and materials.  Essential tools Pots: Choose pots based on the size of the succulent, with a diameter 1-2 cm larger than the original pot (too large a pot may cause waterlogging). Prioritize red clay or purple sand pots (for good air permeability), and ensure the bottom has drainage holes. The One Bloom's “Succulent-Specific Pot Set” (diameter 8-15 cm) is suitable for transplanting succulents of various sizes. Soil: Use loose, well-draining succulent-specific soil. Beginners can purchase The One Bloom's succulent transplanting soil (60% particles, containing peat moss, perlite, and volcanic rock) or mix their own (3 parts particles + 2 parts peat moss).  Tools: Gardening trowel (for filling soil), tweezers (for arranging roots), scissors (for trimming rotten roots), fungicide (for disinfecting roots), gloves (for hand protection, especially when transplanting prickly or toxic succulents). Transplanting timing: Choose the right season for high success rates The best time for transplanting is spring or autumn (the growing season for succulents), when the temperature is suitable (15-25°C), the root system of succulents is highly active, and recovery after transplanting is fast. Transplanting in summer can easily cause root rot due to high temperatures, while transplanting in winter results in slow growth and a long recovery period. In emergency situations (such as root rot), transplanting should be done immediately, regardless of the season, but care must be taken to control the environmental temperature. Detailed transplanting steps: Complete in 6 easy steps Step 1: Remove from pot — Gently remove the succulent  Stop watering 1–2 days in advance to allow the potting soil to dry slightly, making it easier to remove the plant from the pot.  Gently tap the sides of the pot with your hands, or insert a trowel along the edge to loosen the soil. Hold the base of the succulent and gently pull the plant out along with the soil clump. If the soil is severely compacted, you can break the pot (for disposable plastic pots) to avoid damaging the roots by pulling. Step 2: Clean the roots and old soil  Gently shake off the old soil from the roots to expose healthy white roots (leave a small amount of soil around the base; do not clean it completely).  Inspect the roots: Trim off any rotten, blackened, or withered roots (use disinfected scissors, disinfecting them after each cut), retain healthy roots, and trim excessively long roots by one-third (to promote new root growth).  Step 3: Disinfection — Preventing bacterial infection  Soak the trimmed roots in a solution of multi-fungicide (concentration 1:1000) for 10–15 minutes, then remove and place in a well-ventilated area to dry until the root surface is dry and wrinkled (typically 1–2 days, or up to 3 days for larger succulents).  Drying is crucial for successful transplantation. Roots that are not fully dried may rot after potting, so patience is essential. Step 4: Potting — Giving the Succulent a New Home Place a layer of clay pellets or gravel (1–2 cm thick) at the bottom of the pot to improve drainage, then add a small amount of soil and form a small mound in the center.  Place the dried succulent on the mound, adjust its position to center the plant, then use tweezers to fill soil around the roots, gently compacting it (do not press too hard to avoid damaging the roots). The soil level should just cover the base of the roots (do not bury the base of the leaves in soil, as this can cause rot). Step 5: Acclimatization — Allow the succulent to adapt to the new environment  Do not water immediately after transplanting. Place the pot in a well-ventilated area with indirect light (such as a north-facing windowsill) to avoid direct sunlight.  After 3–5 days (depending on the condition of the succulent), water sparingly along the edge of the pot (“root-settling water”) to slightly moisten the soil; do not overwater.  During the acclimatization period (approximately 1–2 weeks), the succulent may experience minor leaf drop or softening, which is normal. As long as the root system is not rotting, it will gradually recover after acclimatization. Step 6: Regular Care — Post-Transplant Management  After acclimatization (when the leaves become plump and glossy), move the succulent to a normal light exposure location (adjust light exposure time according to the variety).  Do not fertilize within the first month after transplanting, as the root system is weak and fertilization may cause fertilizer damage; after one month, if the succulent is growing stably, you may apply a small amount of slow-release fertilizer. Transplanting Techniques for Different Types of Succulents Succulents in the seedling stage: Handle with care to protect the root system  Characteristics: The root system is delicate, and the leaves are tender, making them prone to damage during transplantation.  Techniques: When removing from the pot, carefully dig out the plant with a small spoon, retaining as much of the root ball as possible; use seedling soil with a 30% particle ratio (The One Bloom's succulent seedling soil); after repotting, do not compact the soil—gently smooth it out instead; extend the acclimatization period to 2–3 weeks and avoid excessive sunlight. Old-stemmed succulents: Focus on protecting the stem  Characteristics: The stem is woody, and the root system is robust. When transplanting, take care to prevent the stem from breaking.  Tips: When removing from the pot, lift from the bottom; do not grasp the stem and pull forcefully. When pruning the root system, only remove rotten roots; retain healthy old roots as much as possible. When repotting, add a small amount of granular material around the stem to stabilize the plant and prevent it from toppling over. During the acclimatization period, avoid exposure to wind to prevent stem movement from damaging new roots.  Spiny succulents (cacti, cactus balls): Take proper precautions.  Features: Spines can easily cause injuries, so extra care is needed during transplantation.  Tips: Use thick gloves or paper towels to handle the plant, avoiding direct contact with the spines; increase the proportion of soil particles to 70% to prevent root rot; do not water after potting; wait 5–7 days before watering lightly to help the roots establish. Clumping succulents: Take the opportunity to divide the plants. Characteristics: Multiple plants grow in clumps with intertwined root systems; during transplantation, they can be separated into individual plants to increase the number.  Tips: After removing from the pot, gently separate the clustered plants (try not to break the roots), use scissors to cut where they are connected, and retain part of the root system for each plant; disinfect and dry the separated plants, then repot them individually, managing them in the same way as regular transplantation.  Common Problems and Solutions for Transplanting After transplanting, the succulent leaves become watery and rot. Cause: The roots were not dried before potting, or too much water was given after potting, causing the roots to rot. Solution: Immediately remove the plant from the pot, cut off the rotten roots and leaves, disinfect and dry them again, replace the soil, and repot. During the acclimatization period, strictly withhold water until new roots grow.  Succulents wilting and dropping leaves after transplanting  Cause: The acclimatization environment has too much direct sunlight, or the root system is severely damaged and is recovering slowly.  Solution: Move to a more shaded area with diffused light (such as an indoor corner) to reduce water evaporation; avoid frequent watering, keep the soil slightly dry, and patiently wait for the root system to recover (which may take 3–4 weeks).  The plant tips over after potting  Cause: The soil is too loose or the plant is unstable, especially common in tall succulents.  Solution: Insert a small stick around the plant and gently secure the stem with string (do not tie too tightly); remove after the roots have stabilized. Alternatively, add more particles around the roots to increase stability. 3 Practical Tips to Improve Transplant Success Rates Soil Moisture: “Better Dry Than Wet” During transplantation, the soil should not be too wet (it should be moist enough to form a ball but crumble apart when released). Water sparingly when establishing roots, and keep the soil slightly dry during the acclimatization period. This environment promotes rapid root growth and reduces the risk of root rot. Avoid “Over-Pruning” Beginners often fall into the trap of “pruning obsession,” cutting off healthy roots. In reality, as long as the roots are not rotten, it is best to retain as many as possible. Healthy roots help succulents adapt to their new environment more quickly. Do not move the plant after transplanting Avoid moving the pot frequently during the acclimatization period. A stable environment allows the succulent to focus on developing new roots. Frequent changes in light and temperature conditions keep the succulent in a “stress state,” prolonging the recovery period.  Make repotting a “boost” for succulent growth.  Repotting is not simply “changing pots,” but rather giving succulents a chance to “rejuvenate.” The One Bloom's horticultural experts recommend repotting most succulents once a year, which not only replenishes nutrients in the soil but also allows you to check the health of the root system. Watching the repotted succulents slowly grow new leaves and develop a robust root system is a sense of accomplishment that can only be truly appreciated through personal experience. Check your succulents now to see if they need transplanting, and give them a new home using the correct method, allowing them to thrive in their new environment! 

Looking at the empty flower pots in the yard, you suddenly wonder: Could you move the indoor succulents outdoors to let them soak up more sunlight and fresh air? Your neighbor's cactus is thriving in their yard, but your own jade plant wilted after just a few days on the balcony — can succulents really grow outdoors? Actually, just as different people adapt to different living environments, some succulents thrive outdoors, while others can only survive indoors. Today, we’ll break down the “compatibility” between succulents and outdoor environments, so you can clearly understand which succulents are suitable for outdoor growth and how to care for them to ensure they thrive outdoors. Succulents and Outdoor Environments: Opportunities and Challenges Coexist   Outdoor environments offer succulents the advantages of ample sunlight and good air circulation, but they also face challenges such as extreme temperatures, heavy rain, and strong winds. Whether succulents can thrive outdoors depends on their ability to adapt to these natural conditions. Succulents native to open environments like deserts and mountains generally thrive outdoors, while those accustomed to milder environments like forests and shaded areas require more protection outdoors. Therefore, to determine if a succulent can grow outdoors, it is essential to first understand its “origin.”  These succulents are “suitable for outdoor growth” and thrive in open-air environments.  Desert-type succulents: The outdoors is their “ideal home.” Representative species: Cacti, cactus balls, Lunar Moon, Winter Beauty, etc., native to arid, rain-scarce, and sun-drenched deserts or Gobi deserts, have long adapted to the natural outdoor environment.  Outdoor advantages: Abundant sunlight helps them develop thick stems and compact leaves, and they grow vigorously during seasons with little rainfall (such as spring and autumn); well-ventilated environments reduce the risk of root rot. Care tips: Plant them directly in the ground or in outdoor pots in your yard, choosing a location that is elevated and does not retain water; No shade is needed in summer (short-term shade may be provided during extreme heat exceeding 40°C), and they can tolerate temperatures as low as -5°C in winter (below this temperature, they should be moved indoors). The One Bloom's “Outdoor Desert Succulent Set” includes these varieties, paired with specialized soil containing 70% coarse particles, making it ideal for outdoor planting.  Robust old-stemmed succulents: more resilient outdoors Representative varieties: Black Wizard, Copper Pot Wizard, Jade Tree, etc. After growing for many years, their stems become woody, forming old stems with strong adaptability that can withstand outdoor weather conditions.  Outdoor advantages: The temperature fluctuations and changes in light exposure outdoors can enhance the color intensity of old stems, thicken their stems, and create a more layered plant structure; old stems that have been kept indoors for a long time will show significant improvement when moved outdoors.  Care recommendations: Place in a partially shaded location (e.g., under a roof overhang or near tree shade), and avoid prolonged exposure to heavy rain (though old stems are robust, prolonged waterlogging in the potting soil can cause root rot); when winter temperatures drop below 0°C, wrap the pot in plastic film for insulation or move it to a sheltered location such as a garage.   These succulents are “not suitable for outdoor growth” and are safer indoors.  Haworthia is Prone to “damage” outdoors. Representative varieties: Jade Dew, Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia truncata, etc., native to the shrublands of Africa, accustomed to mild diffused light and stable temperatures, and unable to withstand the wind and sun outdoors.  Outdoor risks: Direct strong sunlight can scorch the leaves, causing the “window-like” appearance to lose its transparency; heavy rain can lead to waterlogged soil and root rot; low temperatures can freeze the leaves, resulting in a translucent, watery appearance.  Care recommendations: These plants should only be placed indoors or on a sheltered balcony (such as a closed balcony). If moved outdoors, they must be placed in a shaded area with dense foliage and protected from rain. They can only be placed outdoors briefly during spring and autumn (when temperatures are between 10-25°C) and must be moved back indoors during summer and winter.  Delicate-leaved succulents: Outdoor environments are a “challenge” Representative varieties: Cotyledon Tomentosa, Graptopetalum amethystinum (Rose)Walther, Buddha's Beads, etc. These plants have plump, juicy leaves with a delicate texture that cannot withstand harsh outdoor weather conditions. Outdoor risks: Heavy rain can damage leaves, intense sunlight can scorch leaf tips, strong winds can break branches, and low temperatures can freeze leaves.  Care recommendations: Place them only on enclosed balconies or covered porches with glass protection, where they can enjoy outdoor diffused light while avoiding rain and wind; if placed in completely open areas, a rain shelter must be constructed, and they should only be placed outdoors on sunny days with suitable temperatures.  Protective Measures for Growing Succulents Outdoors   Preparing for Extreme Weather Conditions  Heavy Rain: Outdoor succulent pots must have drainage holes and be elevated (using bricks at the bottom) to prevent rainwater from flooding the soil. Before heavy rain arrives, move succulents that are sensitive to water (such as varieties with fuzzy leaves) to a sheltered area.  Hot Weather: When temperatures exceed 35°C, provide shade for succulents with delicate leaves (even those suitable for outdoor use) by installing a shade net. Water them once in the morning and once in the evening (avoid midday), keeping the soil slightly moist but not waterlogged.  Cold weather: When temperatures drop below 5°C, move cold-sensitive succulents (such as Haworthia and Echeveria) indoors; cold-tolerant succulents (such as cacti and Echeveria) can be wrapped in insulation material or covered with straw to help withstand the cold. leaves or branches, immediately remove them and disinfect the wounds. Preventing and controlling outdoor pests and diseases: Strengthen monitoring Outdoor insects and birds may eat succulent leaves, and soil-borne pathogens may also increase: Pest control: Regularly inspect the undersides of leaves for pests such as aphids and scale insects, and promptly spray with The One Bloom's outdoor succulent-specific insecticide (US$15–20); Sprinkle a ring of wood ash around the pot to deter some pests. Disease prevention: Avoid prolonged soil moisture. During the rainy season, apply a solution of fungicide (diluted at a ratio of 1:1000) once a month to prevent fungal diseases. If you notice rotting leaves or branches, immediately remove them and disinfect the wounds. Key points for outdoor care in different seasons Spring (growing season): Gradually adapt to the outdoors Succulents that have been kept indoors during winter should not be suddenly moved outdoors in spring. They should first be placed on the edge of a balcony (in a semi-shaded area) for 1-2 weeks to adapt, then gradually moved to a well-lit location to avoid sudden exposure to strong sunlight, which can cause leaf burn. At this time, you can apply fertilizer appropriately (using The One Bloom slow-release fertilizer) to help the succulents resume growth. Summer (high-temperature period): Differentiated care  Succulents suitable for outdoor placement: Provide shade during midday, ensure good ventilation, and control watering (water only after the potting soil has completely dried out).  Succulents unsuitable for outdoor placement: Keep them indoors at all times, away from direct sunlight, and enhance ventilation to cool the environment. Autumn (Stable Period): Seize the “Growth Golden Period” Autumn has suitable temperatures (15-25°C) and mild light. All outdoor-suitable succulents can be placed outdoors all day without shade or insulation. This is an excellent time for succulents to accumulate nutrients. Apply fertilizer once a month to make the plants stronger and prepare for winter.  Cold-tolerant succulents (cacti, Echeveria): Can remain outdoors when temperatures are above -5°C; move indoors or to a garage when temperatures drop below this threshold.  Cold-sensitive succulents: Move indoors when temperatures drop below 10°C, place on a south-facing windowsill to receive sunlight, reduce watering, and ensure safe overwintering.  Transitioning Indoor Succulents to Outdoor Environments: “Transition Techniques”  Gradual Approach: Provide Succulents with an “Acclimatization Period”  Days 1–3: Place in a partially shaded outdoor area (e.g., under tree shade) and expose to 1–2 hours of diffused light daily;  Days 4–7: Move to a location with minimal direct sunlight (e.g., morning sun), receiving 3–4 hours of sunlight daily; After Day 8: Based on the plant’s characteristics, move to an appropriate sunlight location (sun-loving plants to full sun, shade-loving plants to partial shade). Observe Reactions: Adjust Promptly During the transition period, observe the condition of the succulent’s leaves daily:  If leaves develop scorch marks or become soft, this indicates excessive light or significant environmental changes; immediately move back to a partially shaded location, then restart the transition once recovered.  If leaves remain plump and vibrant in color, this indicates successful adaptation; continue increasing light exposure time.  Choosing Containers and Soil for Outdoor Succulents  Containers: Breathability and Drainage Are Key When selecting pots for outdoor succulents, choose materials with good breathability, such as red clay pots or cement pots, and avoid using sealed glass containers (which can trap water). The drainage holes at the bottom of the pot should be large, and additional holes can be drilled if necessary to enhance drainage. The One Bloom's “Outdoor Succulent-Specific Red Clay Pots” (diameter 15-20 cm) feature multiple drainage holes at the bottom, making them ideal for outdoor use. Soil: High Particle Content Outdoor environments receive more rainfall, so the soil must be loose and well-ventilated, with a higher particle content than indoor planting: Desert-type succulents: 70% particle content (e.g., 3 parts particles + 1 part peat moss);  Old-stemmed succulents: 60% coarse particles (e.g., 3 parts coarse particles + 2 parts peat moss);  Even for succulents placed in partially shaded outdoor areas, the coarse particle ratio must not be less than 50% to prevent waterlogging and root rot. Let succulents flourish outdoors with their unique charm.  Succulents grown outdoors are often more robust and vibrant in color than those grown indoors, exuding a natural, wild charm. The One Bloom not only offers succulent varieties suitable for outdoor growth but also provides outdoor care tools such as shade nets and rain shelters to help you overcome the challenges of outdoor planting. With the right variety and proper protection, your yard or balcony can also become a paradise for succulents. Start with the hardy cacti or Echeveria and try outdoor planting to experience their vibrant growth in a natural environment! 

At noon, the sunlight streams through the window, casting glaring spots on the succulent leaves. You suddenly find yourself torn: should you move it to a shady spot, or let it soak up the sun? A few days ago, your neighbor's succulent wilted after being exposed to the sun all day, but your own plant, placed on the balcony under direct sunlight, seems to be thriving. Actually, succulents' preference for direct sunlight is like people's tolerance for spicy food—some can't get enough of it, while others can't handle even a little. Today, we'll break down the “light preferences” of different succulents, so you'll know exactly which ones need sun and which ones need shade, and you'll never have to worry about sun exposure again.  Succulents and direct sunlight: not a “black and white” relationship  Sunlight is the energy source for succulents to carry out photosynthesis, but the intensity and duration of direct sunlight directly affect their growth. For some succulents, a few hours of direct sunlight every day is a “nutritious feast”; for others, direct sunlight can be a “scorching flame.” The key lies in their native environmental light conditions — succulents from deserts have long adapted to intense sunlight, while those from forest edges prefer dappled, diffused light. Desert-type succulents: Direct sunlight is an “essential requirement.”   Representative species: Cacti, cactus balls, Lunar Moon, Winter Beauty, etc., which are native to desert and Gobi environments with intense sunlight, require 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.  Light response: Adequate direct sunlight makes their stems thicker, leaves more compact, and colors more vibrant (e.g., Lunar Moon develops pink edges when exposed to sunlight); insufficient light causes them to grow tall and spindly, with thin stems and sparse leaves.  Care Recommendations: Place them on a south-facing balcony, rooftop, or open-air courtyard where they can receive direct sunlight year-round (short-term shade during midday in summer to avoid extreme heat). The One Bloom's “Desert Succulent Collection” includes such varieties, paired with breathable red clay pots, making them ideal for outdoor cultivation. Succulents with powdery/waxy leaves: More “sun-resistant” under direct sunlight  Representative varieties: Guanghan Palace, Echeveria laui, Blue Stone Lotus, etc., with a layer of white powder or wax on the leaf surface that reflects some strong light, suitable for 4-6 hours of direct sunlight daily.   Light response: Direct sunlight thickens the powder layer, protecting leaves from sunburn, while also making leaves more upright and compact; insufficient light thins the powder layer, causing leaves to spread out.  Care tips: Place on an east- or west-facing windowsill to receive morning or afternoon direct sunlight, avoiding midday intense light (though the powder layer can withstand sun exposure, extreme heat may still cause burns). These succulents “fear direct sunlight”; diffused light is more suitable.   Haworthia: Direct sunlight can “burn” them.   Representative varieties: Jade Dew, Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia truncata, etc., native to the shrublands of Africa, accustomed to diffused light environments, requiring only 3-4 hours of sunlight daily, and must not be exposed to strong direct sunlight.  Light response: Direct sunlight causes leaves to lose transparency (the “window-like” surface becomes cloudy) and edges to scorch; under diffused light, leaves remain plump, translucent, and vibrantly green.  Care recommendations: Place on a north-facing windowsill or in a bright indoor location; use sheer curtains to filter strong light. If placed on a south-facing windowsill, keep 1-2 meters away from the window to avoid direct sunlight on the leaves.  Epiphytic succulents: Direct sunlight can cause “dehydration.” Representative species: Air plants, certain orchids, native to tropical rainforest tree trunks, where light is primarily diffused through leaves; require 3-5 hours of gentle light daily.  Light response: Direct sunlight causes leaves to dehydrate, wrinkle, and even wither; under diffused light, leaves remain flat and vibrant in color.  Care tips: Place in a bright indoor location or on an east-facing windowsill (only receiving morning weak light), avoiding direct sunlight. Pair with The One Bloom's hanging planter and hang it near a window where diffused light is available.  Warning signs of improper lighting and solutions Signs of sunburn: scorched spots appear on the leaves. Symptoms: Brown or white spots or patches appear on the leaves, with scorched edges and a rough texture when touched. In severe cases, the entire leaf may wither.  Solution: Immediately move the succulent to a location with diffused light, and trim off severely sunburned leaves. Avoid direct sunlight afterward, reduce watering until the wounds heal, and allow the plant to recover gradually.  Signs of insufficient light: Leggy growth, fading color Symptoms: Rapid elongation of the stem, increased internode spacing (greater distance between leaves), lighter leaf color (e.g., Purple Pearl turning from purple back to green), and overall leaning toward the light source.  Solution: Gradually increase light exposure (add 1 hour per day, avoiding sudden intense sunlight), and place in a brighter location; for severe stretching, trim the top to promote branching and create a more compact plant shape. Lighting Adjustment Techniques for Different Seasons Spring (Growing Season): Gradually Increase Light Exposure After the weak light environment of winter, succulents have reduced tolerance to strong light. In spring, gradually increase light exposure time from 2 hours per day to 6 hours, avoiding sudden exposure to intense sunlight that could cause burns. Summer (high-temperature period): Differentiate treatment. Sun-loving succulents: Provide brief shade (using shade cloth) during midday (12–3 PM) to avoid extreme temperatures above 35°C; Sun-sensitive succulents: Keep them in diffused light throughout summer, away from direct sunlight, while enhancing ventilation and cooling. Autumn (color development period): Seize the “golden light” Autumn offers mild and prolonged sunlight, making it an ideal time for succulents to thrive. Whether sun-loving or shade-loving, succulents can benefit from increased light exposure (shade-loving varieties can receive an additional 1–2 hours of indirect light) to enhance leaf color. Winter (low-temperature period): Maximize light exposure  With short daylight hours and weak light intensity, all succulents should be placed in the brightest location (south-facing windowsill). Sun-loving succulents can receive direct sunlight all day, while sun-sensitive succulents can be placed near the window to receive more indirect light, helping them withstand the cold. Lighting Solutions for Insufficient Natural Light If your home has poor lighting conditions (e.g., north-facing rooms, high-rise apartments), you can use plant grow lights to compensate:   Type: LED succulent grow lights (US$20–30), with a spectrum suitable for succulent growth and low energy consumption.  Usage instructions: Place the light 30-50 cm away from the succulents, illuminate for 8-10 hours daily to simulate natural sunlight; place sun-loving succulents closer (30 cm) and sun-sensitive ones farther away (50 cm).  Notes: Supplemental lighting cannot completely replace natural sunlight, but it can maintain basic succulent growth and prevent excessive elongation.  3 Common Misconceptions About Light Care for Beginners Misconception 1: All succulents need “plenty of sunlight.” Wrong! Succulents such as Haworthia and epiphytic types are sensitive to direct sunlight. Blindly exposing them to sunlight will only cause sunburn. Adjust the amount of light according to the characteristics of the species. Misconception 2: The light on an indoor windowsill is “sufficient.” Not necessarily! The light intensity on a north-facing windowsill may be only one-third of that on a south-facing one, which is far insufficient for sun-loving succulents. Supplemental lighting is required. Misconception 3: Water droplets on leaves “do not affect light exposure” Wrong! Water droplets on leaves can act as convex lenses under sunlight, focusing light and causing leaf burns. After watering, avoid direct sunlight and wait until the droplets have dried before exposing the plant to sunlight. The Ultimate Advice for Ensuring Succulents “Enjoy Appropriate Light Exposure” The key to providing adequate light for succulents is to “match their native environment”—first determine where the species originates from, then provide similar light conditions. Each succulent label at The One Bloom specifies light requirements (e.g., “full sun,” “partial sun”), which beginners can use as a reference for placement. In fact, succulents are more resilient than we think; occasional improper lighting won't kill them immediately. As long as you adjust promptly, they can gradually recover. By carefully observing their reactions, you'll eventually find the optimal lighting method for your succulents, allowing them to grow healthily under sunlight (or diffused light).  

Looking at that accidentally touched succulent leaf in the pot, you suddenly wonder: can you grow a new succulent from it? In fact, propagating succulents from leaves is the most amazing and cost-effective way -- a tiny leaf, after patience, can grow roots and buds, and eventually become a full plant. Whether you're looking to expand your succulent collection or rescue a leaf you accidentally bumped off, leaf plugs are the perfect choice. Today, we'll show you how to grow succulents from leaves, explaining every step from leaf selection to transplanting, so that even novices can get started easily. Why do leaves grow succulents? It's a “special skill” of succulents  Succulents store a lot of water and nutrients in their leaves, which gives them the ability to “reproduce asexually” -- even if they are detached from the mother plant, as long as the leaves are healthy and in the right environment, they can induce roots and new shoots. This is just like the ability of some plants to take cuttings, except that succulents have “given” this ability to their leaves. Different species of succulents have different success rates in leaf plugging. Most species in the Sedum family (e.g., Hazel Moon, Winter Beauty) have a very high success rate in leaf plugging, while the genus Haworthia (e.g., Jade Dew) is relatively difficult to do so, but as long as you do it the right way, you can try to do it successfully.  Preparation before leaf insertion: choosing the right leaves and tools is the key  Selecting “qualified” leaves Not all leaves can be successfully leaf-inserted; choosing the right leaves is the first step: Condition: Choose healthy, full, undamaged leaves. The thicker the leaves, the more nutrients they store, and the higher the success rate; yellowed, soft, diseased, or broken leaves are basically difficult to survive.  Picking method: Gently break off the leaves from the mother plant, try to keep the leaves intact, especially the base of the leaves (the part connected to the stalk) should not be broken, as this part is the key to rooting and germination. You can pinch the base of the leaf blade with your fingers and gently shake it from side to side to let the leaf blade fall off naturally, avoiding pulling hard enough to cause the base to break.  Varieties: Prioritize varieties that are easy to succeed in leaf plugging, such as Hazel Moon, Winter Beauty, Purple Pearl, Bearberry, etc. The One Bloom's “Leaf-Plugging Specialized Variety Set” contains these, which are good for newbies to practice. Prepare the necessary tools and materials  Container: A shallow tray, plastic box, or small pot will do, as long as it can hold soil and has some depth; the container doesn't need to have drainage holes (you don't need to water a lot in the early stages of leaf insertion).  Soil: Use a mixture of granular soil with good permeability and nutrient soil at a ratio of 1:1 (e.g., The One Bloom's special soil for foliage insertion, with fine granularity, water retention, and permeability). Avoid pure garden soil, which is prone to sloughing and leads to rotting of the leaves.  Other tools: small spray bottle (for spraying water and moisturizing), tweezers (for arranging the leaves to avoid hand injury), carbendazim (optional, for sterilizing the leaves). Detailed Steps for Leaf Plugs: from drying the leaves to waiting for rooting and germination Step 1: Allow the leaves to “heal their wounds.” Freshly picked leaves with wounds at the base are prone to rotting when placed directly on the soil, and need to be dried first:Place the leaves in a ventilated, dry place with diffused light (e.g., by a windowsill) and let the wounds at the base heal naturally. It usually takes 2-3 days to see the wounds become dry and shrink slightly. If you're worried about infection, dip the wound in a little carbendazim powder and let it dry before moving on to the next step.  Step 2: Arrange the leaves and wait for roots to develop Fill the container with prepared soil and gently smooth the surface of the soil without compacting it. Use tweezers to lay the dried leaves flat on the soil surface, with the base of the leaves slightly touching the soil. No need to insert the leaves into the soil (inserting the leaves into the soil is prone to rot), and the leaves can be arranged sparsely to avoid crowding in the later stages of growth. Put the container in a well-ventilated place with diffused light (avoid direct sunlight, or the leaves will be scorched), and keep the temperature at 15-25℃, which is the most suitable temperature for rooting and germination. Step 3: Maintain humidity and wait patiently You do not need to water at the beginning of leaf insertion; just keep the soil slightly dry. If the environment is dry, you can use a spray bottle to gently spray a little water on the soil surface every day to make the soil slightly moist, but do not let the leaves get wet, or they will rot easily. Waiting time varies depending on the variety and environment, fast 1-2 weeks to see white roots emerging from the base of the leaves, slow may take 1-2 months. During this period must have patience, do not turn the leaves frequently. Step 4: See new shoots and roots, continue to care When the leaves have obvious roots and tiny new shoots, the leaf plug is halfway to success: You can increase the soil moisture slightly at this point by wetting the soil around the root system with a spray bottle so that the roots can absorb the water, but still avoid waterlogging the leaves. You can allow the container to receive low light in the morning or evening to promote new shoot growth, but the strong midday light should still be avoided.  Transplanting after leaf insertion: letting the seedlings “grow independently” When the new shoots have grown to a height of 1-2 centimeters and the root system is relatively well developed (2-3 centimeters in length), it is time to transplant the seedlings into separate small pots: Prepare small pots with a caliber of 5-8 cm and fill them with special soil for succulents (The One Bloom's special soil for succulent seedlings, which is 50% granular and suitable for seedlings).  Carefully remove the seedling from the soil with small tweezers, trying not to damage the root system, then dig a small pit in the center of the new pot, place the root system into the pit, and gently fill it with soil so that the seedling can stand firmly.  After transplanting, put the seedling in diffused light for 1-2 weeks, do not water during this period, and then water a little when the soil dries out, and then care for it according to the care of adult succulents.  Common Problems and Solutions for Leaf Plugs Leaf blade watering and rotting This is the most common problem for leaf plugs, mostly caused by unhealthy leaves themselves, wounds that come into contact with water before healing, or high humidity and poor ventilation in the environment.Solution: Immediately remove the watery leaves to avoid infecting other leaves; keep the environment ventilated, reduce the number of water sprays, and allow the soil to dry out properly; and continue to observe the remaining healthy leaves, as long as they have not rotted, they still have a chance to grow roots. Only grow roots but not shoots, or only shoots but not roots This is due to unbalanced environmental conditions: only growing roots may be due to insufficient light, and only growing shoots may be due to insufficient humidity.Solution: If only roots grow, you can slightly increase diffused light (but not direct light); if only shoots grow, you can appropriately increase soil moisture and spray water around with a spray bottle; be patient, and in most cases, roots and shoots will eventually grow. Leaf wilting, but healthy roots and buds During leaf insertion, the mother leaf will gradually wilt, which is normal because all the nutrients from the mother leaf are supplied to the new buds and root system.Solution: Do not pull out the wilted mother leaf, just wait for it to fall off naturally; if the mother leaf is rotting during the wilting process, then you need to remove it carefully to avoid affecting the seedling. 3 Practical Tips to Improve the Success Rate of Leaf Plugs  Control the Temperature and Humidity of the Environment The most suitable temperature for leaf plugs is 15-25℃, and the humidity is kept at 50%-60%. Shades should be used to reduce the temperature in high summer temperatures, and in low winter temperatures, they can be placed in a warm room (e.g., an air-conditioned room), but away from the heating vents, to avoid the air from drying out too much.  Don't disturb frequently During leaf insertion, don't turn over the leaves every day to see if they are rooted and sprouted. Frequent turning will damage the fine roots that have just grown, and will also prevent the leaves from stabilizing and adapting to the environment. You can observe once a week and let the leaves grow quietly at other times.  Choose the right season Spring and autumn is the growing period of succulents, and also the best season for leaf insertion, when the temperature is suitable, the leaf activity is high, and the rooting and germination speed is fast; leaf insertion in the summer is easy to rot, and in the winter, the growth is slow, so newbies are better to try in the spring and fall. Create Your Small Succulent Garden with Leaf Plugs Leaf plugs not only give you more succulents for free, but you can also experience the magical process of going from a leaf to a plant. The One Bloom has succulent varieties as well as soil, containers, and tools specifically for leaf plugs,  which is great for newbies to get started. When you see the first leaf grow a root bud, and as the seedling slowly grows, the sense of accomplishment is unmatched by buying ready-made succulents. Choose a healthy leaf from your home succulent and start your leaf-plugging journey, and soon your windowsill will be filled with your own propagated succulents!

To succulent pots, accidentally by the edge of the leaf blade of the small thorns, fingers a little itchy; home children always want to touch the succulent chubby leaves, pets also from time to time to come close to smell -- you can not help but make a muttering: these succulents will not be toxic? In fact, the “toxicity” of succulents is a very delicate topic; some are completely harmless, some pose a hidden “small danger”. Today, we will uncover the truth about whether succulents are toxic, and teach you to distinguish which succulents need to “stay away from”, which can be safely raised, so that you, your family, and pets can enjoy the beauty of succulents with peace of mind. The “Toxic Truth” About Succulents: Not All Are Dangerous The toxicity of succulents, like the fact that some plants produce flowers and fruits, is a way for them to protect themselves in nature. Most of the toxicity of succulents is concentrated in the sap. As long as they are not contacted or eaten, they will not cause harm to people; only a few succulents contain irritating substances in their leaves and stalks, which may cause discomfort after contact. Therefore, it cannot be generalized whether the succulent is toxic, can not be generalized; it is specific to the species. These succulents are “toxic” and require attention when caring for them  Sap toxic succulents: possible allergies upon contact Representative varieties: unicorn palm, keiki, jade tree, tiger prickly plum, etc. Their sap contains cardiac glycosides, alkaloids, and other substances. Skin contact may appear red, itchy, rash, and other allergic reactions; if accidentally eaten, it will cause nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, and other symptoms.  Judgment method: Most of these succulents will shed white or transparent sap when the stems and leaves are broken, and the sap has a slight odor, which will cause discomfort to the skin after contact.  Care suggestions: put it in a place out of reach of children and pets, such as a high trellis; wear gloves when changing pots and pruning to avoid the sap from getting on your skin; if you accidentally come into contact with the sap, rinse it off with water immediately, and seek medical attention if the symptoms are serious. Spiny and toxic succulents: double “protection” Representative species: Certain plants of the cactus family (e.g., cactus, cactus ball) not only have sharp spines that can easily injure people, but the spines or sap of some species also contain slight toxicity, and redness, swelling, and pain may occur after being pricked.  Judgment method: The stalks are covered with sharp thorns, the thorns are hard, and the sap may ooze out after breaking.  Care advice: Place in a corner or special cactus potting area, avoiding places where they are frequently walked on; use tweezers or thick gloves as an aid when tending to them to prevent them from being pricked. These succulents are “non-toxic and harmless” and can be raised without fear Representative species: Hazel Moon, Winter Beauty, Purple Pearl, Jade Dew, Bearberry, Buddha Pearl, etc. These succulents have full leaves and no irritating sap, so there is no danger even if children or pets occasionally touch or lick them.  Features: No special sap when the leaves or stalks break, light odor, a “safe choice” for home care.  Care suggestion: You can put it in a conspicuous place such as a window sill, desk, coffee table, etc., without worrying about the safety. It is very suitable for families with children or pets. Safe care tips for toxic succulents  Placement: away from “sensitive areas.” Toxic succulents should be placed in high planters, balcony corners, and other places that are not easily accessible, not in bedrooms, children's rooms, living room coffee tables, and other areas where frequent activities or children can easily touch them, to reduce the risk of contact from the location.  Taking care of the way: do a good job of “protective measures.” to poisonous succulent pots, pruning, be sure to wear rubber gloves, to avoid direct skin contact with the sap; pruning down the branches, leaves should be cleaned up in a timely manner, do not arbitrarily discard in the children or pets can touch the place; if you need to deal with the broken branches, it is best to use paper towels wrapped and then discarded. Emergency treatment: what to do in case of contact or accidental ingestion Skin contact: immediately rinse the contact area with a lot of water. Do not rub your eyes with your hands or touch other parts of your body. If there is redness, swelling, and itching, you can apply anti-allergy ointment, and if the symptoms are serious enough to seek medical attention. Accidental ingestion: Immediately induce vomiting (applicable to the awake state), and send to the hospital as soon as possible. Bring a sample of the accidental ingestion of succulent, so that the doctor can judge the condition. Suggestions for choosing succulents in different scenarios  Families with children: Prioritize “non-toxic + thornless.” Choose non-toxic and thornless succulents such as Hazel Moon, Tamarind, Bearberry, etc., to avoid children from being stabbed or accidentally eaten while playing. You can let your children participate in simple maintenance, such as watering, which develops a sense of responsibility and is safer at the same time.  Families with pets: avoid “pet-attractive varieties.” Some pets (e.g., cats and dogs) like to gnaw on succulent leaves. To avoid toxic succulents (e.g., tiger prickly plums) with small leaves that are easy to nibble on, you can choose varieties (e.g. aloe vera, yucca) that have hard leaves and are not of interest to pets, or put odors around the pots that pets don't like (e.g. citrus peels) to keep pets away.  Office environment: balancing “safety + aesthetics” Offices with heavy traffic are suitable for non-toxic, easy-to-care succulents (e.g., purple pearls, Buddha beads), which are placed on desks and window sills to beautify the environment without worrying about discomfort from exposure to coworkers or visitors. “Safety Tips” when shopping for succulents Ask about varieties and characteristics When shopping for succulents, ask the store staff about the toxicity of the varieties and learn about the care precautions, especially if it is the first time you come across the varieties, and don't buy them based on appearance alone.  Check the care labels The succulents in formal stores will have care labels stating the species, light, and watering requirements, and some toxic varieties will also be labeled with tips such as “sap is poisonous, avoid contact.” So, pay attention to check them when shopping.  Newbies prioritize “non-toxic varieties.” Newbies who have just started raising succulents are advised to start with non-toxic, easy-to-maintain varieties (e.g., The One Bloom's “Beginner's Succulent Kit”), and try to care for the toxic varieties after they have gained experience. and should not have too many. Enjoy the beauty of succulents. Safety is a prerequisite The toxicity of succulents is not scary. As long as you understand the characteristics of the species and take precautions, you can enjoy their unique charm under the premise of safety. The One Bloom not only has a wealth of varieties of succulents, but also provides a detailed description of the characteristics of the species, to help you pick the succulents that are suitable for your own family situation. Whether they are poisonous or non-toxic, all succulents have their own value of existence. The key is that we have to learn to treat them correctly. With the heart to understand, careful maintenance, so that succulents become a beautiful embellishment in life, rather than a safety hazard.

When organizing the desk, you suddenly found that the pot of succulent, which was only the size of your thumb when you first bought it, has now filled up the entire small pot -- the leaf blades have risen from three to a dozen, and the stalks have quietly lengthened a lot. Half a year has passed in the next pot, called “giant varieties” of succulents, but not been much growth. This makes you wonder: succulent in the end can grow how big? Is it a variety of words, or maintenance methods at play? In fact, the succulent “head” is like the height of a person, both natural genetic limitations but also affected by the environment. Today, to dismantle the code of succulent growth, so you know clearly that your own succulent can grow to how big, and how to help it grow to the ideal state. The “size world” of succulents: differences beyond imagination The size differences of succulents are like “miniature landscapes” and “sky-high trees” in nature. Some can stand firmly on the fingertips, only the size of a fingernail cap, for the rest of their lives; others can grow into half a person high “small shrubs”, needing to use a large pot or even ground planting to accommodate. This difference is largely determined by the species, but aftercare can also allow them to grow fuller within their “genetic upper limit” or keep them at a smaller size. Knowing your succulent's “breed potential” will help you avoid the anxiety of “three years of keeping it and it still hasn't grown” or the surprise of “it suddenly growing to take up too much space”. The “growth ceilings” of different varieties of succulents  Miniature succulents: the eternal ‘cuties’ This type of succulent is a perfect protagonist of “miniature landscapes”: Hime Star Beauty, Buddha Pearl (single plant), Major General (Aeonium), etc., usually 2-5 centimeters in adult size, with stalks so short that they are almost invisible, and leaves crowded together like a small, rounded ball. The growth rate is as slow as “slow-motion”, and it may take 2-3 years from seedling to adulthood, but after adulthood, the plant is basically “fixed” and will not get any bigger. Even if you give them enough nutrients and space, it's still hard to break through the 5cm limit. The One Bloom's “Mini Succulent Gift Box” contains these varieties, and with a small hand-painted pot of 3-5cm, it looks like a small ornamental piece when placed in a corner of your desk. Medium-sized succulents: the “workhorse” of home care Most common succulents belong to this camp, and are medium-sized adults that don't take up a lot of space, so they're “regulars” on balconies and window sills: Hazel Moon, Winter Beauty, and Purple Pearls are between 10 and 30 centimeters in size when they reach adulthood. The stalks will slowly lignify to form a textured old pile, with the number of leaves increasing year by year, but not wildly “expanding”, which is good for creating a sense of hierarchy. 3-5 years to grow to adult size, with roughly 3-5 cm of “fattening” per year. The growth rate will slow down after adulthood, then just a little pruning too too-dense branches will maintain a compact and full plant type, which will not look messy. Large succulents: the ones that can grow into “small plants.” These succulents are the “giants” of the succulent world. They are so large that they need plenty of room to grow when they reach adulthood, and are better suited to the patio or spacious balcony: gold, amber, and giant columns in the cactus family, jade trees, and the mage series (Black Mage, Copper Pot Mage). When they reach adulthood, they can exceed 50 centimeters in height, and some can even grow to 1-2 meters, with stout stalks that look like small tree branches and dense foliage that looks like a small bush from a distance. The growth rate is faster than that of small and medium-sized succulents, especially the Mage series, which can grow 10-20 centimeters a year. If the pot is too small, it is easy to “hold” their growth, so every year you have to change the pot in order to let the root system stretch, continue to grow. The “acquired factors” that affect the size of succulents: the details of care are critical  Pots: space determines the “growth ceiling.”  The root system of succulents is like a person's feet; shoes that are too small will limit the activities. Too small pots will trap the root system, resulting in the plant growing big. But too big a pot won't work either; the soil dries out slowly and is prone to rotting. The right way to do this is to use a 5-8 cm pot for miniature succulents, a 10-15 cm pot for medium-sized succulents, and a 20 cm pot for large succulents. The diameter of the pot should be 2-3 cm more than the widest part of the plant, so that there is a little space for growth. The One Bloom's “Stepped Pot Set” (5/10/15 cm) is just enough to satisfy the growing needs of succulents from small to large without having to change pots frequently. Soil: nutrients affect “growth momentum.”  Although succulents are tolerant of barrenness, a prolonged lack of nutrients can lead to stagnant growth and a thin body. Different soil formulas for different stages: For the seedling stage, use a soil with a lot of peat (The One Bloom's seedling-specific soil is 60% peat), which is fluffy and nutrient-rich, and allows the seedlings to grow their bodies quickly. As an adult, increase the proportion of pellets (50%-70%) and reduce nitrogen fertilizer to avoid growing in vain, but without affecting normal growth. Large succulents (such as Jade Tree) can be watered with diluted liquid fertilizer once a month during the growing period to help the stalks grow thicker. Light: determines “whether the body is healthy or not.”  When there is not enough light, succulents will desperately stretch the stalks to find sunlight, and the result is “futile growth” - it seems to grow taller, but the stalks are as thin as chopsticks! The leaves are sparse and not at all full, which is not a healthy “growth”. How to judge the futile growth: stalks section by section pulled very long, the distance between the leaves becomes far, light green color, the whole plant crooked, head is heavy. How to improve: Ensure 4-6 hours of direct light every day. If it grows too much, cut off the top and let it grow branches, and the plant will be more compact and good-looking. How big you want your succulent to grow, you can control it like this Want it to grow: give enough “growing conditions.” Timely change of pots: When the edge of the leaf touches the wall of the pot, or the root system emerges from the drainage hole, it's time to change to a larger pot, so as not to let the root system “squeeze” out of breath. Fertilize during the growing season: Spring and fall are the fastest-growing times for succulents. Sprinkle medium and large succulents with a slow-release fertilizer ( $10-$15 ) once a month, so that they have enough nutrients and will grow faster. Don't run out of water: water during the growing season (spring and fall) when you see the potting soil drying out. Don't wait until the soil is completely dry and cracked, or it will affect the growth rate. Want to make it small: properly “limit growth.” Use small pots to control the cultivation: deliberately choose pots 1-2 sizes smaller than the standard size. For example, medium-sized succulents with 8 cm pots, the root system can not grow roots, the plant naturally grows slowly, and you can always maintain a small size. Less nitrogen fertilizer: Use only granular soil and no nitrogen-containing fertilizers when you are an adult, so that you can maintain the status quo and not grow like crazy. Regular pruning: If a medium-sized succulent grows too loose, cut off the overgrown branches and excess leaves to control the size and make the plant tidier. Focus on “size management” for succulents at different stages  Young plants: Let the roots “grow” first Don't worry too much about the size of your succulents in the first 6 months; focus on getting healthy roots. Use loose soil (30% pellets), don't fertilize, and place in an area with diffused light. Once the roots have filled the pot, the plant will naturally “power up” and grow. This is called “growing roots first, then growing flesh”. Growing Stage: Adjust as needed If you have a lot of space at home, change to a larger pot, fertilize appropriately, and let it grow to the size it should be for the variety; if you have little space, use a small pot to control the growth, and don't let it grow too much to take up space. This stage can be flexible to adjust the maintenance according to your own preferences. Adulthood: Maintaining the “Ideal State” Once it grows to a satisfactory size, reduce the frequency of pot changes (once every 2-3 years is fine), and don't be too diligent with watering and fertilizing. Occasionally, prune the overcrowded branches to keep the plant's shape looking good; no need to pursue “the bigger the better”. Accepting the “natural growth” of succulents is the fun of caring for them. Whether it's a miniature succulent the size of a fingernail cap, or a large succulent that can grow half a man's height, they all have their own unique beauty,“ says a veteran florist at The One Bloom. ”You don't need to obsess about the size of the succulent you're keeping, but rather, learn about its varietal characteristics, give it the right environment, and watch it grow. It's just a matter of understanding the characteristics of the species, giving it the right environment, and watching it grow at its own pace that is the greatest joy." Sometimes, the pot slowly grows into an old pile of medium-sized succulents, then deliberately promotes the large succulent for more flavor. With the company of your heart, you will find that every size of succulent has its unique loveliness.  

One morning after succulent watering, you suddenly found that the pot had changed -- the tip of the leaf had been kissed by the setting sun, dyed with a touch of playful red; some of the edge of the leaf was red as if bordered, and some, even the whole leaf, was flushed with pink color. This sudden change lets you feel surprise and doubt: Is the succulent growth more energetic, or is it quietly temper tantrum? In fact, succulent turning red is like a wonderful “color magic”, behind which hides different stories, some of which are good news, and some of which we need to pay more attention to. Today, we will unpack the bag of this magic and teach you to read the things that succulents turn red.  Succulents turning red: is it “beauty mode” or “distress signal”?  The color of succulent leaves is like their “expression.” Green is the most relaxed norm, while the appearance of red is often related to changes in the surrounding environment. In a comfortable environment, red is succulent “state burst” performance. The leaves will be fat, hard, bright color eye-catching; but if the environment is not right, red may be succulent in the “frown.” The leaves will be soft, wilted, and even slowly withered. Just as a person's face turns red after exercise is a red face when you are sick, red face needs to be paid attention to. The red color of the succulent also has to be combined with the specific situation to see.  Common conditions that cause succulents to turn red: one by one  “Pretty redness” from sunlight. Most succulents turn red when they get enough sunlight, which is their little trick to protect themselves. Adequate sunlight causes more anthocyanins to grow in the leaves, something that helps them block out too much sunlight while letting the leaves show through in nice colors like red and pink. How to judge: Reddened leaves are hard and bulging to the touch, shiny, the color starts from the tips or edges of the leaves and swooshes out a little bit towards the middle, and the whole pot of succulents looks very spirited, with none of the leaves drooping or rotting. What to do: This is a succulent showing off its good condition, so don't worry about it! If you want the red color to stand out more, keep letting it get some sunlight (a little bit in the middle of the day in the summer), and a south-facing windowsill is perfect. If you don't have enough sunlight at home, the succulent fill light ($20-$30) can help. Shine it 30 centimeters away from the succulent, and the red color will still come out.  Cooler temperatures deliver “red cheeks.” When the weather gets cooler, especially when the temperature difference between morning and evening gets bigger, succulents will save up some anthocyanins to ward off the coolness, and the leaves will follow suit and turn red. Autumn is the most powerful time for succulents to turn red. A cool wind blows, and many Sedum family succulents will change from green to red, as if stained by autumn paint. How to tell: The red color mostly appears at the end of fall and the beginning of winter, and the leaves are very uniform in color, quite firm to the touch, and don't look frozen and transparent or rotten. What to do: This is a little surprise from the season, so don't worry about enjoying it. As long as the temperature doesn't fall below 5℃ and you don't let the succulent freeze, there's no problem. Water less when it is cooler, and let the potting soil dry out a little. The red color will stay longer. “Thirsty Alert” When Dehydrated  If you haven't watered your succulent for a while and the potting soil dries out to the point of cracking, the succulent will shrink its leaves a bit to reduce water evaporation while growing anthocyanins to protect itself, and the tips and edges of the leaves may turn red. The red color at this time is more like a succulent whispering, “I'm thirsty”. How to tell: The reddened leaves are a bit wrinkled and soft, and the surface of the potting soil is hard. After a day or two of watering, the red color will slowly fade and the leaves will bulge again. What to do: water the succulent quickly, slowly water along the edge of the pot until the water flows out from the bottom of the pot, and put it in a ventilated place after watering. Normally, you can take a chopstick and stick it 2 centimeters into the soil. If the chopstick is dry, it means it's time to water, so don't wait until it turns red with thirst. The “Little Effects” of Soil Acidity and Alkalinity  Whether the soil is acidic or alkaline can quietly affect the absorption of nutrients by succulents and indirectly make a difference in the color of the leaves. Some succulents (e.g., Purple Pearl, Evening Haze) will have a brighter red color in somewhat acidic soil; when the soil is alkaline, the red color may fade a bit, but it's usually less noticeable. How to tell: The red color changes very slowly, the leaves are growing well and not rotting or wilting, and you may have recently changed the soil or applied a somewhat acidic fertilizer. What to do: You don't need to do anything on purpose; succulents are not that delicate. If you want to make the soil a bit acidic, just pour some fermented rice water occasionally, or use The One Bloom's special soil for succulents (it is a bit acidic and most succulents like it).  Pests and diseases make “bad color.”  A few times, succulents are bitten by bugs or become sick; they will turn red locally, and also with spots, pits, wilting, and these faults, which are the reaction of the leaves after injury.How to judge: the red color is piece by piece, bit by bit; the shape is messy, the leaves are soft and curly; there may be small holes or white flotsam (insect secretion), and the growth is much slower. What to do: Look at the back of the leaves and use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to wipe them down if there are a few bugs; if there are a lot of bugs, spray them with The succulent insecticide ($10-$15). If it gets sick, cut off the bad leaves and spray it with a bit of polymyxin so it doesn't spread.  Small characteristics of different succulents that turn red  The succulents that love to turn red: they are born “love to dress up.” Fire Festival, Red Leaf Festival, Rainbow Jade, these succulents are born easy to turn red, when there is enough sunlight and a big difference in temperature, the leaves will become red, or even the whole pot is red, this is their healthy look, the redder it is, it means that the better the maintenance is.  Do not love red succulents: love “green clothes.” Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii. This Haworthia, most of whose leaves have always been green or a little transparent, even if the sun is very full, also seldom turns red. If they turn red, most of the sun is too sunny or lack of water; you have to move to a place with a bit of diffused light, appropriate watering.  Succulents with powder: red “veiled” Echeveria Laui, Guanghan Palace. These leaves with powder succulents, when red, powder will be a light red underneath, like a veil, especially good-looking. Don't touch the powder off when watering, or the red color will be directly exposed and may be faded by strong sunlight.  Tips to keep succulents healthy and red  Create a “morning and evening temperature difference.” A temperature difference of more than 10℃ in the morning and evening will make the succulent grow more anthocyanins. In autumn, you can put your succulent outside (at a temperature of no less than 5°C), in the sun during the day and cool air at night, and you will see the color change in a week or so. In winter, put it by the window and take advantage of the temperature difference between inside and outside the house (don't freeze); the red color will stay longer.  Light “no more, no less is just right. Let succulent sunshine 4-6 hours a day, summer noon, do not get sunshine (afraid of sun bad), winter can be all day sunshine (and warm, and can make the color better). If you don't have enough sunlight, use a fill-in lamp for 6 hours a day, 30 centimeters away, not too close to avoid sunburning the leaves.  Watering “when it's dry.” During the growing period, wait until the potting soil is dry before watering. Keep the potting soil a little bit dry; a proper “little thirst” will make the succulent easier to turn red, and the leaves are also stronger. But don't stop watering all the time, or the leaves will be wrinkled like paper and the red color will lose its spirit.  Enjoy the “little color blessings” of succulents turning red  Succulents turning red is a little gift from nature, both in terms of healthy awesomeness and hints of environmental changes. By learning to read the reasons behind the red color, you can keep your succulents looking beautiful all the time. The One Bloom not only has things like succulent-specific soils, but also has a “succulent combo that turns red easily” ($25-$35), which makes it easy for novices to keep them looking nice and red. Observe with care and adjust slowly; you will find that the red color of succulents can add a lot of life to your home, and keeping succulents becomes a thing full of surprises.

When you first bring a small succulent home, you might quietly wonder: How many springs, summers, autumns, and winters will this little plant accompany me through? Some succulents only stay with us for a few months before quietly withering away, while others slowly grow into old stems, accompanying us for years or even longer. In fact, the lifespan of succulents is not predetermined; it largely depends on how we care for them. Today, we’ll delve into the mystery of succulent lifespan and teach you how to help them thrive under your care for as long as possible.  The “lifespan spectrum” of succulents: from short-lived to long-lived   The lifespan of succulents is like a broad spectrum, with different varieties having vastly different “life spans.” Some annual succulent varieties, such as certain Aizoaceae plants, complete their mission of flowering and fruiting before naturally reaching the end of their lives, typically lasting 1 to 2 years; while many members of the Sedum family can easily survive over 10 years with proper care; as for cacti, they are true “long-lived exemplars,” with decades- or even century-old specimens not uncommon in the hands of caretakers. Therefore, to keep your succulents by your side for longer, choosing the right variety is just the first step—scientific care is the key.  The 5 core factors that determine the lifespan of succulents  Root system: The “lifeline” of succulents  A healthy root system is the foundation for the survival of succulents. Once the root system is compromised, the plant's life is also threatened. Overwatering or poor soil aeration can lead to root rot due to oxygen deprivation, preventing the plant from receiving water and nutrients. Leaves will begin to yellow and soften from the bottom, and may fall off with even a light touch.  How to identify: If you notice yellowing and softening of the lower leaves, and the potting soil remains damp for an extended period, even emitting a faint musty odor, remove the plant from the pot. If the roots appear blackened and sticky, this is a clear indication of root issues.  Methods to extend lifespan: When planting succulents, choose The One Bloom's succulent-specific granular soil (70% granular content). This soil has excellent air permeability and drainage, effectively reducing the risk of root rot. Before watering, ensure the potting soil is completely dry to avoid waterlogging.  Light: The “energy supply station.”   Light is crucial for the growth of succulents. Insufficient light causes the stems to become thin and fragile, a condition known as “leggy growth,” reducing the plant's resistance and making it more susceptible to disease. Excessive light, however, can scorch the leaves, impairing photosynthesis and shortening the plant's lifespan. How to determine: Stretching is characterized by elongated stems and widely spaced leaves, appearing sparse. Leaves scorched by intense light will develop brown spots and grow more slowly. Methods to extend lifespan: Expose succulents to 3 to 6 hours of diffused light daily. Avoid midday sunlight in summer, and place them on a south-facing windowsill in winter to maximize sunlight exposure. If natural light is insufficient, use grow lights (priced between $20 and $30) to supplement lighting.  Temperature: A comfortable “growing environment.”  Succulents thrive in temperatures between 10 and 30°C. Extremes of temperature can harm them. When temperatures drop below 0°C, succulents may suffer frostbite, causing their leaves to become translucent and waterlogged. When temperatures exceed 35°C, succulents may enter dormancy, and severe cases can lead to death. Additionally, sudden temperature changes can cause stress in succulents, affecting their health and shortening their lifespan.  How to identify: In cold environments, succulent leaves may become translucent and watery; in high temperatures, leaves may wrinkle, wither, and cease growth.   Methods to extend lifespan: In winter, move succulents to a warm indoor location away from direct cold drafts; in summer, place them in a well-ventilated, cool area, avoiding direct exposure to air conditioning, and maintain a stable environmental temperature.  Pests and diseases: The invisible “killers” Pests such as scale insects and red spiders feed on the sap of succulent leaves and can spread various diseases. If not addressed promptly, they can weaken the succulent and eventually lead to its death.  How to identify: If you notice yellow spots on the leaves, curled leaves, insect droppings, or white fluffy substances, and the plant's growth rate has significantly slowed down, these are signs of pest and disease infestation.  Methods to extend lifespan: Regularly inspect the undersides of succulent leaves, as this is where pests tend to congregate. If a small number of pests are found, use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to gently wipe the leaves; if there are many pests, use a succulent insecticide (priced between $10 and $15) for spraying. Additionally, maintaining good ventilation in the environment can effectively reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.  Pruning: Lightening the Load for Succulents  Succulents that are not pruned for an extended period may develop overly dense foliage, impairing ventilation, and light penetration, which can lead to bacterial growth. Additionally, excessive foliage consumes a significant amount of nutrients, affecting the plant's healthy growth and shortening its lifespan.  How to determine: If you notice that the succulent's branches and leaves are disorganized, with lower leaves piling up and middle leaves turning yellow and rotting, it is time to prune.   Methods to extend lifespan: During the spring and autumn seasons each year, promptly remove withered or aged leaves and thin out overly dense branches to improve ventilation and light penetration. For flowering succulents, promptly remove flower stems after blooming to reduce nutrient consumption. Note that some succulents, such as Ziziphus jujuba, may die after flowering. In such cases, remove flower stems in advance to extend their lifespan.  The “longevity guide” for succulents at different growth stages  Seedling Stage: Laying a Solid Foundation During the seedling stage, succulents have fragile root systems and weak resistance. In the first 6 months after planting, use loose peat soil (mixed with 30% coarse particles). Avoid fertilizing during this period, place the plant in an area with diffused light, and keep the soil slightly dry to allow the root system to develop healthily, laying a solid foundation for longevity. Mature Stage: Balanced Care  Mature succulents require balanced light, watering, and fertilization. During the growing season, apply The One Bloom slow-release fertilizer once a month and repot annually to prevent root crowding and maintain a compact plant shape, ensuring healthy growth and extended longevity. Old stem stage: Reduce intervention Old stem succulents have developed strong adaptability, but grow slowly. Reduce watering frequency during care, watering only after the potting soil has completely dried out; avoid frequent movement to prevent branch breakage; repot annually without excessive fertilization, allowing natural growth.  4 Practical Tips for Extending the Lifespan of Succulents  Regular Repotting: Give the Root System a “Refresh.” The root system of succulents continues to grow, so they need to be repotted into a larger pot every 1 to 2 years, along with fresh soil to replenish nutrients and prevent soil compaction. During repotting, trim off old roots to promote new root growth and revitalize the succulent. Simulate the Natural Environment: Survival of the Fittest Understanding the natural growing environment of succulents is crucial. For example, desert-type succulents require less watering and more sunlight, while epiphytic succulents need better ventilation and higher air humidity. Caring for them according to their natural environment helps them adapt better and live longer.  Avoid over-care: “Lazy care” leads to a longer life Many people worry that succulents lack water or nutrients, leading to frequent watering and fertilization. However, this can actually harm the plants. Succulents naturally tolerate poor soil and drought. Following the principle of “better dry than wet, better less than more,” reducing human intervention and allowing them to grow naturally, often results in longer-lived plants.  Propagation and backup: extending life For succulents that die after flowering, propagation through cuttings or division should be done before flowering to preserve their “offspring.” Other succulent varieties can also be propagated regularly, which not only increases their numbers but also preserves the variety in case the parent plant encounters issues, allowing their life to continue in another form.  Tips for Keeping Succulents Company for the Long Haul   The lifespan of a succulent is like a long journey—it's not about how fast you start, but whether you can keep going steadily. The One Bloom not only provides the soil, pots, fertilizers, and other supplies needed for succulent care but also a variety of detailed care manuals to support you on the path to extending the lifespan of your succulents. Caring for succulents is also a process of growing together with them. Watching them grow from tiny seedlings into sturdy old stems brings a joy and sense of accomplishment that is unparalleled. Start now by caring for your succulents with the right methods, and let them bloom with lasting beauty on your windowsill!  

Early in the morning to succulent watering, you suddenly found that the edges of the leaves with a faint yellow, A closer look, several leaves had lost the fullness of the previous day's luster -- this in the end what was going on? Obviously, every day, careful care, succulent but still turned yellow, really makes people anxious. In fact, succulent leaves turn yellow because they are “passing signals”, behind which hides the maintenance of small problems. Today, crack these signals one by one to help you find out the reasons why succulents turn yellow so that they rejuvenate.  Common causes and solutions for succulents turning yellow  Too much watering, root system “drowning” What succulents are most afraid of is waterlogged potting soil, the root system can't breathe when it's soaked in water for a long time, and then it will rot and can't absorb the nutrients and water, and the leaves will start to turn yellow from the bottom, soften, and come off easily when touched with your hand.Judgment: The potting soil is sticky and wet, with a slight musty smell, and the yellowed leaves are concentrated at the bottom and feel soft and rotten. Solution: Immediately stop watering, take the succulent out of the pot, cut off the rotted roots, soak it in carbendazim solution for 10 minutes to sterilize it, and then replace it with The One Bloom's succulent-specific granular soil (70% granular, highly breathable), repot it, put it in a ventilated place, and do not water it for a week.  Improper lighting, either sunburn or lack of light  Too much light: Strong light in the middle of the day in summer can burn succulent leaves, causing them to develop yellow-brown spots or turn yellow at the edges. Judgment: The yellowed leaves are mostly on the side facing the sun, with obvious scorching marks. Solution: Move the succulent to a place with plenty of diffused light, such as an east-facing windowsill, avoiding direct midday sunlight. Slightly sunburned leaves can be retained, while severely burned ones should be cut off. Insufficient light: Succulents that have been placed in the shade for a long period of time will have leaves that are thin, yellow, and dull in color, which is caused by insufficient photosynthesis. Judgment: The leaves are yellowish overall, and the stalks are slender and growing at an angle toward the direction of light. Solution: Allow the succulent to receive 3-4 hours of diffused light per day, or use a plant filler light ($20-30), about 30 centimeters away from the plant, for 5 hours per day.  Improper fertilization: either burns the roots or lacks fertilizer.  Too much fertilizer: High concentrations of fertilizer can burn the root system, causing the tips of the leaves to turn yellow or even scorch black, often starting with the new leaves. Judgment: If you have recently applied fertilizer, the new leaves will turn yellow first, and the leaves will have scorched spots. Solution: Rinse the potting soil with water, dilute the concentration of fertilizer, and change the soil if it is serious. After that, you should follow the principle of “thin fertilizer and diligent application” in applying fertilizer, and choose The One Bloom's succulent-specific slow-release fertilizer, which can be applied once a month. Lack of fertilizer: long-term, without fertilizer, the potting soil will not have enough nutrients, succulent leaves will turn yellow, slow growth, and a light color. Judgment method: leaves uniformly yellow, no scorched spots, the plant is overall weak. Solution: Apply diluted liquid fertilizer once a month during the growing period to replenish nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium elements, so that the leaves can regain their full color.  Soil sloughing, root system “lack of oxygen” Potting soil is not replaced for a long time, it will become hard, with poor permeability, the root system can not stretch, can not absorb enough oxygen and nutrients, and the leaves will slowly turn yellow.Judgment method: water penetration is very slow when watering, the surface of the potting soil is dry and cracked, and the yellowed leaves are more evenly distributed. Solution: Change the pot in time, use The One Bloom's special nutrient soil for succulents (containing peat, perlite, and vermiculite, loose and breathable), and gently break up the old soil around the roots when changing pots, so that the new soil is closely combined with the roots.  Pests and diseases attack, leaves are “nibbled”  Pests such as mesquite and red spider will suck the sap from succulent leaves, causing yellow spots on the leaves, and in severe cases, the whole leaf turns yellow and wilts; fungal diseases will also cause yellow spots to appear on the leaves, which will gradually expand.Judgment method: There are tiny insect bodies or white flocculent material on the leaves, and the yellow spots are irregular in shape and will gradually spread. Solutions: For a small number of pests, wipe the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol; for a larger number of pests, use The One Bloom's Succulent Specialty Insecticide ($10-$15) and spray according to the directions; for diseases, cut off the diseased leaves in a timely manner and spray with a carbendazim solution to control the disease. Special Precautions for Different Types of Succulents Turning Yellow  Seedling Succulents Seedling succulents have a fragile root system and are prone to rotting and turning yellow with a little bit of watering, so you need to control the watering strictly, keep the potting soil slightly dry, and once you find the yellowing, check the root system immediately and change the soil in time.  Old pile succulents Old pile bottom leaves occasionally turn yellow is normal metabolism, belongs to natural aging, as long as the top leaves are healthy, do not have to deal with it; but if the top leaves suddenly turn yellow, mostly light or watering problems, adjust in time.  Succulents with powdered leaves The white powder on the leaves of this type of succulent can protect the leaves, when watering, if you directly rinse the leaves, the white powder will be washed away, the loss of protection of the leaves is easy to be sunburned and turn yellow, watering should be poured along the edge of the pot to avoid touching off the white powder.  3 Practical Tips to Prevent Succulents from Turning Yellow  Regular Inspection, Early Detection, and Early Treatment Spend a few minutes each week to observe the state of succulent leaves, focusing on the bottom of the leaves to see if there are signs of yellowing and softening. Once found abnormal, a timely investigation of the causes to avoid the expansion of the problem.  Reasonable matching of potting soil and pots pots choose breathable red ceramic pots or plastic pots with side holes, soil with granular soil and nutrient soil mix (the ratio is adjusted according to the variety, dry-loving varieties of particles accounted for a high proportion of the species, wet-loving varieties a little lower), from the root of the reduction of yellowing problems caused by excessive watering and soil crusting.  Follow the principle of “rather dry than wet, rather less than more.” Watering and fertilizing should be restrained, succulent drought intolerant, waterlogging intolerant, barren intolerant, not tolerant of fertilizers, would rather less watering, less application, but also do not over-care, which is the key to preventing succulent yellowing.  Make yellowing succulents beautiful again  Seeing succulents slowly recover from yellowing to bright green, that sense of accomplishment is self-evident. The One Bloom not only has succulent-specific soil and fertilizer, but also has professional care manuals, which can help you solve all kinds of succulent care problems. In fact, the process of raising succulents is a process of constant observation and adjustment. As long as you treat it with care, you can easily cope with the situation even if the leaves turn yellow. Go check your succulents now, follow the above methods to find out the cause, and make them come back to life!

The window sill with the best light in the house is already full of greenery, and the rest of the corner is mostly shady. You are holding a pot of newly purchased succulents and worrying: can succulents grow in the shade? If you put it in a place with insufficient light, will it grow and wither? In fact, succulents are not all inseparable from the bright light; some varieties can grow in the shade, but grow more vigorously. Today, we will talk about succulents and shade environment “fitness” so that you can raise a lot of succulents in a space with limited light.  Succulents and light “degree of intimacy”  Succulents on a need for light, like people's preference for sunlight -- some people love the blazing sun in the sky, some people prefer the coolness of the shade. The native environment determines their “light preference.”  Succulents growing in deserts and the Gobi (such as most species of the Sedum family) have long been accustomed to intense sunlight, and will become thin and futile with insufficient light;  While succulents growing in diffused light environments, such as forest edges and rock crevices, are naturally adapted to shade and are even afraid of strong direct light. Therefore, the answer to the question “Can succulents grow in the shade?” is not absolute, but it depends on the species. Not suitable for succulents growing in the shade: lack of light “sick”  sun-loving succulent “light bottom line”  Like Echeveria Peach Pride, Sedum Clavatum succulents need at least 4-6 hours of direct light every day. If placed in the shade for a long time:  The stalks will elongate wildly and become slender and weak, i.e., “futile”;  The color of the leaves fades, for example, Fire Offering will change from red back to green and lose its ornamental value.  Insufficient photosynthesis and reduced resistance make them susceptible to diseases and root rot.  These types of succulents can only survive for a maximum of 1-2 months if they are forced to be placed in the shade, after which they will show obvious growth abnormalities.  “Survival Wisdom” for Shade-Tolerant Succulents  The following succulents can grow healthily even in a cool place (e.g., a north-facing windowsill, indoor corners) that receives less than 3 hours of light per day: Haworthia: Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia truncata, etc., native to South Africa, grow satisfactorily under bushes with diffused light, and have compact, full leaves;  Epiphytic succulents: air bromeliads, certain dendrobium orchids, which don't need soil and rely on the air to absorb nutrients, and a cool, airy place is their ideal home;  The One Bloom's “Shade Tolerant Succulent Combo” contains these varieties, which are great for light-deprived homes; they're easy to care for, even for novices. Key Tips for Keeping Succulents in the Shade Controlled Watering: Better Dry than Wet Water evaporation is slow in the shade, so watering frequency should be halved compared to a well-lit environment. Use the “chopstick test” to determine wetness and dryness: insert 3 cm into the soil and water after it is completely dry, water thoroughly, but don't let the tray become waterlogged. Succulents such as Jade Truffle are in the shade. If they are overwatered, the leaves will become cloudy and opaque.  Ensure ventilation: avoid smothering the root system  Shady places tend to be poorly ventilated, which is the “invisible killer” of succulent root rot. You can open the window for 2 hours a day or put a small fan ($15-20) next to it to speed up air flow and reduce the humidity of the potting soil.  Choose the right soil: breathability is central  When keeping succulents in the shade, the breathability of the soil is more important than a well-lit environment. We recommend The One Bloom's succulent-specific granular soil (70% granules), mixed with a small amount of peat, to retain water without stagnating and reduce the risk of root rot.  Occasional “supplemental light”: preventing growth  Even shade-tolerant succulents can grow in vain if they are left completely without light for a long period of time. You can keep the leaves compact by moving them to a window with diffused (non-direct) light for 1-2 days a week, or by using a plant filler light (at a distance of 30 cm for 4 hours a day).  Care adjustments for different shade environments  North-facing window sill (with diffused light): This is a good place for shade-tolerant succulents such as Wanxiang, which receive soft diffused light every day, and can grow for a long time as long as watering and ventilation are controlled. You can apply diluted liquid fertilizer (1:2000 ratio) once a month to supplement the reduced nutrient synthesis caused by insufficient light. Indoor corners (extremely low light): Only air bromeliads, certain dendrobium orchids, and should be regularly (1 time per week) to get a place with diffused light “replenishment”. Air bromeliads can even be sprayed instead of watered to avoid waterlogging and rotting in the shade. Shade / Balcony Corner (Semi-Shade): This environment is moderately light and suitable for succulents such as Buddha's Bead, Lover's Tear, etc. The vines can grow naturally in a downward direction, creating a unique landscape. Avoid strong direct light in the middle of the day in summer, and accept weak light in the morning and evening in other seasons.  Common problems and solutions for succulents in the shade  Leaf blades become soft and drooping: Mostly caused by overwatering, stop watering immediately, move to a ventilated place, pad the bottom of the pot to accelerate drainage, and in serious cases, take off the pot and replace it with dry soil. Stalks are slender and leaves are sparse (futile): caused by insufficient light, cut off the futile stalks, keep the bottom leaves, put them in a place with diffused light, let them sprout new branches again, the new branches will be more compact. Leaves yellowing and falling off may be too poor ventilation, the root system lack of oxygen. Improve ventilation in time, reduce watering. If the root system has rotted, you need to cut off the rotten roots and replant.  You can create a succulent world in the shade  As long as you choose the right varieties and master the skills, the question of whether succulents can grow in the shade can be answered in the affirmative. The One Bloom not only has a wide range of shade-tolerant succulent varieties, but also has matching shallow pots, granular soils to help you solve all kinds of difficulties in maintaining in the shade. 

You pick up and put down the colorful fertilizers on the shelves -- will fertilizing succulents be like pumping high-calorie beverages into skinny people, but instead harm them? The last time your neighbor's succulent rotted its roots because of fertilizer, it made you worry about “fertilizer”. In fact, fertilizer is not a beast to succulents; the key lies in “what to apply, how to apply”. Today, to unveil the fertilizer and succulent “love-hate relationship”, so that you can master the trick of safe fertilization, so that the succulent grows fat, strong, and solid!  The “balanced way” between fertilizer and succulents Succulents are naturally tolerant of barrenness, and they survive in their native environment on the meager nutrients brought in by occasional rainfall, which makes many people think that “succulents don't need fertilizer.” However, in reality, in an artificial growing environment, the nutrients in the potting soil are limited, and prolonged lack of fertilizer can lead to slow growth and shriveled leaves for succulents. Just like people need a balanced diet, succulents also need the right amount of “nutritional supplementation”, but over-fertilizing is like overeating, which can burden the root system and cause problems such as root burning and rotting. Therefore, whether the fertilizer is harmful to succulents all depends on the “amount” and “timing” of application.  In these situations, fertilizer will become a “succulent killer.”  Fertilizing too much: the root system is “burned”  The succulent's root system is fragile and very sensitive to the concentration of fertilizer. If too much fertilizer is applied at one time, or if the fertilizer is too close to the root system, the concentration of nutrients in the soil will be too high, resulting in the loss of water in the root cells, just like the water being precipitated when pickles are pickled, and the leaves will appear to be yellowed, soft, and shed, and in severe cases, the whole plant will rot. The novice is most likely to make this mistake, always thinking “more fertilization to grow faster”; the results are counterproductive.  Dormant fertilization aggravates the metabolic burden  Succulents will enter a dormant state in the summer heat or winter low temperatures, when their growth is almost stagnant, and the demand for nutrients is reduced to a minimum. If fertilizer is applied at this time, the succulent can not be absorbed, the fertilizer will accumulate in the soil, destroying the soil structure, and wait until the growth period instead of affecting the root absorption capacity. Just like people do not need to eat a lot of food while sleeping, force-feeding will only cause gastrointestinal discomfort.  Use the wrong type of fertilizer: nutrient imbalance  succulent needs is low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, too much nitrogen fertilizer will lead to plant growth, stalks weak, thin leaves; and used unrotted organic fertilizer (such as fresh fish guts, kitchen waste), in the process of fermentation will produce high temperatures, direct scorching of the root system, but also breeding bacteria and pests.  Fertilizing in this way is “all good and no harm” for succulents.  Choosing the right fertilizer: succulents' “exclusive nutritious meal”  Slow-release fertilizer: suitable for newbies, like The One Bloom's succulent-specific slow-release fertilizers ($10-15), which are granular and buried on the surface of the potting soil, and with watering It releases nutrients slowly with watering and is good for 3-6 months, so you don't have to worry about burning your roots.  Liquid Fertilizer: Use during the growing season, dilute the fertilizer according to the instructions (usually 1:1000), for example, mix 1ml of fertilizer with 1 liter of water and water it once a month to make the leaves fuller.  Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are the mainstay: applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (e.g., bone meal, potassium dihydrogen phosphate) before flowering can promote flowering and root strength, and make succulents more resistant to frost and sun.  Timing: Fertilize only during the “growing season.”  Spring and autumn are the peak growing seasons for succulents, when fertilizers are most effective and can be quickly absorbed and utilized. When the temperature exceeds 30℃ in summer and falls below 10℃ in winter, you should stop fertilizing and let the succulents rest in peace. Freshly potted succulent, the first 3 months do not fertilize, such that the root system to adapt to the new environment, and then begin to “add food”.  Fertilizing method: “thin fertilizer” is the key  Burying fertilizer: bury slow-release fertilizer particles along the edge of the pot 2 cm into the soil, away from the root system, to avoid direct contact. Irrigation: Dilute the liquid fertilizer and pour it in slowly along the edge of the pot. Do not pour it on the leaves, especially the heart of the leaves, to prevent the fertilizer residue from causing burns. Frequency: 1 time per month during the growing period, no more than 2 times at most, rather less than more.  Fertilizing Points for Different Types of Succulents  Young Seedling Succulents: “Light Diet” Freshly cuttings or sown seedlings have fragile root systems, which are easily injured by fertilizer. They do not need to be fertilized at all for the first 6 months, and can grow by relying on the basic nutrients in the potting soil.  Old pile succulent: “a small amount of tonic”  Growing for many years of old pile succulents, low demand for nutrients, spring and fall each year, once a slow-release fertilizer can be applied, excessive fertilization will lead to pile rot.  Flowering succulent: “precise supplement energy”  Like Buddha beads, jade dew, and other succulents that will bloom, before the buds appear, once a month to apply diluted phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, can make the flowers fuller, longer flowering period, and after the flowers to supplement the fertilizer once in a timely manner, to make up for the nutrients consumed by the blossoming. “First Aid Measures” for Improper Fertilizing  Overfertilizing: Immediate “Detoxification” If you find that the succulent leaves have suddenly become soft and yellow, and you have recently applied fertilizer, you should immediately take off the pots, rinse the roots and the potting soil with water to wash off the fertilizer adhering to the roots, and then replace it with new Dry potting soil, placed in a ventilated place to dry, do not water for a week.  Fertilizer splashed on leaves: clean it up in time  If you accidentally get fertilizer on the leaves, rinse it off immediately with water and absorb the water with paper towels, put it in a ventilated place, and avoid direct sunlight to prevent the leaves from being burned.  Start the “Healthy Fertilizer” Journey for Succulents  Whether fertilizer is a ‘nutrient’ or “poison” for succulents is under your control. The One Bloom not only has a variety of fertilizers for succulents, but also matching fertilizers for succulents. The One Bloom not only has all kinds of fertilizers for succulents, but also matching fertilizer tools, which make it easy for newbies to get started. From today onwards, say goodbye to the “fear of fertilizer”, according to the principle of “a little, at the right time, at the right place”, your succulents will surely reward you with fuller leaves, brighter colors, and even amazing flowers. This weekend, give your succulents a “safe meal” bar!

Late at night, working overtime, I glimpsed the windowsill with a pot of succulent leaves, leaves wrinkled like rubbed paper -- most likely watering problems. Raise succulent people understand, watering is a “mystery”: someone three days to water once, meat watering; someone a week to water once, but rotten roots and leaves. The secret of watering succulents is not in the “frequency”, but in the “tricks”. Mastering these few tips hidden in the details, even a novice, can make the succulent fat and bright, so they no longer need to worry about the dried leaves!  When to water succulents? The timing of watering succulents depends on the dry and wet state of the soil, the season, the climate, and the growth stage of the plant. Here are some practical ways to determine the timing of watering: Observe the state of the soil: Succulents prefer the principle of “water well when dry”. Check the moisture level 1-2 centimeters below the soil surface. If it is completely dry, you can water it. You can judge this by inserting a chopstick or finger into the soil. Observe the appearance of the plant: If the succulent leaves begin to crumple slightly or lose their luster, it may be a sign of water shortage. However, do not wait until the leaves are severely shriveled before watering to avoid harming the plant. Consider environmental factors: succulents maintained indoors evaporate more slowly than outdoor succulents and should be watered less frequently accordingly. A well-ventilated environment can speed up soil drying. Suggestion: Avoid watering at fixed times, such as “once a week”. Adjust flexibly according to the specific environment and plant needs. How much watering do I give my succulent? The amount of watering needed is determined by the size of the pot, the type of soil, and the environment. The following are specific recommendations: The principle of “water well when dry”: When watering, make sure that the water flows out of the bottom of the pot, indicating that the soil is completely moist. However, do not allow water to accumulate at the bottom of the pot for a long period of time to avoid root rot. Small pots vs. large pots: Small pots (less than 10 cm in diameter) usually require small amounts of watering, while large pots can be watered all at once.  Soil ratios: Succulent soil is usually a mixture of granular soil (e.g., perlite, volcanic rock) and peat soil. Soil with a high proportion of granules drains quickly and requires slightly more water; soil with a high proportion of peat retains water well and requires less water. Suggestion: Use pots with drainage holes to ensure excess water can drain away. Pour off any standing water in the tray after watering. How can I tell if I am overwatering? Overwatering is a common problem in succulent care and can lead to root rot or plant growth. Here are signs of overwatering and how to deal with it: Signs: Leaves become soft, transparent, or yellowish, and fall off easily when touched. Stems turn black or rot, and the soil is wet for a long time. Growth of the plant as a whole (elongated stems and widely spaced leaves). Countermeasures: Stop watering immediately and move to a well-ventilated place to dry the soil. Check the root system. If there is any rotted part, prune and replant. Adjust the watering frequency and make sure the soil is completely dry before watering. Suggestions for prevention: Use a well-aerated soil (e.g., 50%-70% granular soil) and make sure the pot has good drainage. Frequency of Watering Succulents  The frequency of watering varies depending on the environment and season. Here are some general recommendations: Spring (March-May): Succulents are entering the growing season, check the soil every 7-10 days and water well when dry. Summer (June-August): High temperatures may cause dormancy. Reduce the frequency of watering to every 10-15 days, or only water sparingly when the soil is completely dry. Avoid watering during midday heat. Fall (September-November): Similar to spring, this is the prime growth period for succulents; water every 7-10 days. Winter (December-February): Cold temperatures may cause dormancy; water less frequently than every 15-30 days, or only sparingly when leaves are slightly crinkled. Environmental effects: Southern humid areas: extend watering intervals and pay attention to ventilation. Northern dry areas: Watering frequency can be increased, but the principle of “water well when dry” should still be followed. How to water in different seasons? Succulents are sensitive to seasonal changes, and watering strategies need to be adjusted accordingly: Spring: Increase watering moderately to promote growth. Water in the morning or evening, and avoid direct sunlight. Summer: Reduce watering and avoid watering when it is hot and humid. Choose early morning or evening watering and keep the soil slightly dry. Fall: Return to normal watering frequency and watch the soil for dryness. Winter: Keep the soil dry and water sparingly to prevent the roots from drying out. Avoid watering when the temperature is below 10°C to avoid frostbite. Tip: Use a hygrometer or check soil moisture regularly to avoid blind watering. Other useful watering tips Choose the right watering tool: use a fine spout watering can or dropper to precisely control the amount of water and avoid overwatering. Water quality: Prefer using rainwater or filtered water to avoid chlorides in tap water that can harm succulents. Misting vs. watering: Misting is suitable for seedlings or when the air is dry to increase humidity, but it should not replace watering. Over-misting may lead to waterlogged leaves and cause mold. Observe the weather: Reduce watering on cloudy and rainy days, and water moderately on sunny days according to soil conditions. The best succulent varieties for “lazy watering” If you're always worried about forgetting to water, choose one of these “shape-resistant” succulents: Jade Tree: leaves as thick as coins, a month without watering is fine; on the contrary, watering too much can cause easy to drop leaves.  Haworthia:  leaves are crystal clear, drought-resistant, and shade-tolerant, suitable for the desk, occasional watering on the line.  Lithops： grows like a stone, the rainy season will be “peeling”, this time to completely cut off water, but it can grow more circumscribed.  The One Bloom includes all of these, and with a free granular soil, you can't go wrong with a newbie's eyes closed. First Aid Guide for Improper Watering Watered and softened leaves: Stop watering immediately, remove the watered leaves, and place them in a ventilated area for 3 days, then water sparingly when the soil dries out.  Waterlogged and smelly potting soil: Take off the pot immediately, cut off the rotted root system, soak it in carbendazim for 10 minutes, replant it with new dry soil, and do not water it for a week.  Wrinkled and dull leaves: Rehydrate the plant by soaking it in a pot, then put it in a diffused light for 2 days, and the leaves will slowly regain their fullness.  Start your “Precision Watering” journey now Watering succulents is not a “task” but a process of observation and interaction. The One Bloom not only has succulents, but also watering pots, granular soil, and care manuals. Starting today, throw away the rigid watering calendar and follow these tips, and your succulents will surely tell you with their chubby leaves, “This is the way to water, just right!”

Afternoon sunlight shines obliquely into the balcony, you are spraying water to humidify the green, while staring at the side of the succulent worry: the same is a plant, the green away from the humidifier on the wilting, that succulent is not also have to follow the “drink full of water vapor”? This question is like asking, “Do people like spicy food?” - the answer is never black or white. Today we will unveil the secrets of succulent and “humidity”, so that you can understand the “temperament” of your meat, and raise a full and bright state!  Is it true that succulents are afraid of humidity? Don't be deceived by the “desert origin”  When it comes to succulents, many people will immediately think of the desert, thinking that they must hate humidity. But in fact, the native environment of succulents is far more complex than imagined: some grow in the arid Gobi, some are rooted in rock crevices, and some are attached to the trunks of tropical rainforests. For example, Haworthia truncata this kind of Haworthia, the native environment is a semi-shaded valley in southern Africa, where the air is humid, small temperature difference, but instead away from a certain degree of humidity; and like Lithops, such as the “desert faction”, it is particularly sensitive to moisture, high humidity in the environment is very easy to rot the roots. Therefore, to determine whether the succulent likes moisture, you have to look at its “home” in which.  Succulents are divided into two categories: “moisture-loving faction” and “fear of moisture faction” Moisture-loving succulent: away from the moisture on the “no spirit”  This type of succulent leaves is usually thinner, permeable, or surface. There is no thick waxy layer, and a certain amount of air humidity is needed to keep it in shape:  Haworthia truncata: crystal clear leaves, which will become gray and burnt at the edges when the air is dry. It is suitable to be placed in a well-ventilated bathroom (with occasional diffused light), or spray water around it once a day with a spray bottle to keep the air humidity at 50% - 60%.  Haworthia heidelbergensis: The leaves are short, fat, and veined, and the veins become lighter or even curl up under dry conditions. You can put a small bowl of water next to the pot and let the water evaporate naturally to increase the humidity. Do not spray water directly on the leaves to avoid rotting the heart of the leaves.  Fear of humidity school succulents: a humid environment is the “invisible killer”  These succulent leaves have a thick, waxy layer or are fluffy, with their own “water storage buff”; high humidity will make them “breathless” :  Lithops： stone-like shape, “peeling” during the rainy season, and susceptible to mold when the air is humid. Ensure a dry environment when caring for them, and be sure to open a window and ventilate the soil after watering to dry it out quickly.  Cotyledon Tomentosa： The leaves are fuzzy and hard to dry after getting wet, making it easy for the leaves to rot. Water along the sides of the pot with a spouted pot, avoiding the leaves, and reduce the frequency of watering when the air is humid.  3 Practical Tips for Controlling Humidity Tip 1: Use a “hygrometer” to accurately monitor ($10 - $15) Don't judge humidity by feel; a small hygrometer can help you make a scientific decision: humidity-loving succulents are suitable for humidity levels of 50% - 70%, and humidity-fearing succulents are suitable for 30% - 50%. In winter, the humidity in the room with the heater on is often lower than 30%, so you can put a transparent plastic bag over the humidity-loving succulents (leaving air holes); during the rainy season when the humidity is more than 80%, you can move the humidity-loving succulents to the window, and use an electric fan to blow away the humidity.  Tip 2: Adjust the watering method with humidity  When the air is dry (humidity <40%), watering frequency can be slightly increased (e.g., watering once every 10 days, change it to 7 days), and watering is normal for humidity-phobic succulents, but ventilation should be strengthened after each watering.  When the air is humid (humidity>70%): reduce watering and spray water to increase humidity; prolong the watering interval (e.g., watering once in 7 days, change it to 15 days), and only water halfway through the watering each time, so that the soil dries out quickly.  Tip 3: Soils with “moisture control” have to pay attention to  moisture-loving succulents with slightly better water retention of soil: 40% of rotting leaf soil + perlite 30% + coconut husk 30%; fear of moisture succulents with a high percentage of particles of soil: volcanic rock 50% + peat soil 30% + coarse sand 20%, so that the water is quickly lost. The “first aid program” for improper humidity  Humidity-loving succulents dry and wrinkled: immediately move to a cool place, use a spray bottle to spray water around the leaves (don't spray the center of the leaves), the leaves will slowly stretch after 2 hours, and then spray water once a day for 3 days.  Fear of humidity send succulent rotten leaves and mold: cut off the rotten leaves, take off the pot to check the root system, cut off the rotten roots and soak them in carbendazim for 10 minutes, replace them with dry new soil, put them in a ventilated place, and don't water them for 1 week.  Find your “humidity balance”  Keeping succulents is like getting along with people; you need to understand their temperament to live in harmony. The One Bloom's succulent packages are labeled with the humidity preferences of each species, making it easy for novices to get started. Don't be obsessed with “whether succulents like humidity or not”, observe its state: full leaves, clear lines, that is, the right humidity; wrinkled, rotten leaves, then quickly adjust. Treat every meat with heart, they will reward you with the most beautiful posture -- this is probably the fun of raising succulents!

Early morning sunshine into the windowsill, you carefully removed the succulent from the old pot, watching those entangled roots stretch out, and replaced it with new soil, a sense of accomplishment! But then a question pops up: Should you water after turning the pot over or not? Some say to immediately water, some say to wait a few days, simply making people tangled to the point of no return. Don't panic, today is for you to unveil the mystery of succulent watering after turning pots, so that your succulent in the pot after the smooth “home”, rubbing long non-stop!  Why is watering after turning pots so critical? Turning pots for succulents is like a “move”; the root system may be subject to different degrees of damage, especially those aging, rotting roots are pruned, the wound needs time to heal. At this time, if you do not water properly, it is like pouring sewage on a freshly injured wound, which can easily trigger infection and lead to root rot. However, it is not good to completely disregard watering; the right amount of water can help the new soil and root system closely together, providing a boost to the succulent's recovery. Therefore, watering after potting is a key step in determining whether succulents can be successfully potted. Should I water my succulent after repotting? It depends on the situation. Situation 1: Healthy root system, no damage If the succulent's root system is intact, and there is no root pruning, just because the potting soil is stagnant or the plant has grown up and needs to be changed to a bigger pot, then you can water it once right after turning the pot over. Water should be poured slowly along the edge of the pot until the water runs out from the bottom of the pot, which will allow the new soil to fully fit the root system, reduce the soil gap, and help the succulent quickly adapt to the new environment. However, it should be noted that after watering, put the succulent in a well-ventilated place with diffused light and avoid direct sunlight. Situation 2: Trimmed the root system, and there is a wound  When the succulent root system appears to be aging, rotting, or winding seriously, we will prune it, and then the root system will have a wound. In this case, you must not water immediately after turning the pot; you need to let the succulent “dry roots” 3 - 5 days, so that the wound can heal. Wait for the wound to dry, and then plant the succulent into the new soil, at this time do not rush to water, after another 1 - 2 days, see the surface of the potting soil is dry, a small amount of water along the edge of the pot, so that the soil can be slightly moist, the purpose is to stimulate the root system to resume growth.  Situation 3: Succulents are in a special period Dormant period: If the succulent is in a dormant state when you turn over the pot, such as some succulent varieties during the summer heat, it is recommended that you do not water for the time being after turning over the pot, and then water a small amount when the succulent awakens from dormancy and begins to show signs of growth.  Seedling: Seedling succulent root system is fragile, even if the root system is intact after turning pots, do not water a lot, you can use spraying to make the soil slightly moist, to avoid the root system being impacted by the impact of water.    The correct way to water after turning over the pot, and the precautions Watering time has to be careful In either case, watering after turning over the pot should be avoided in the strong midday sunlight. Choosing the morning or evening, when the temperature is suitable, can reduce the water evaporation is too fast or too slow on the succulent. Watering after turning the pot in winter should be selected at noon on a sunny day, and to ensure that the water temperature is similar to the room temperature, to prevent cold water from stimulating the root system.  Watering methods should be precise Root fixing water: For succulents with undamaged root systems, use a thin spouted watering can to water thoroughly along the sides of the pot, letting the water slowly seep into the soil, and do not directly wash over the plant's leaves, especially at the center of the leaves, to prevent stagnant water from rotting.  Watering in small amounts: For succulents that have had their roots pruned and wounds healed, the first watering should be small, only letting the surface of the soil 2 - 3 cm wet, and then gradually increasing the amount of watering according to the dryness of the soil. The choice of soil is fundamental  The choice of soil when turning over pots has a big impact on the effectiveness of watering, and the right soil will reduce the risk of root rot after watering. We recommend The One Bloom's Succulent Turning Soil, which is a mixture of 50% granular soil (volcanic rock, vermiculite), 30% peat soil, and 20% coco coir. It is very breathable and drains well, and even if you water a little too much, it drains away quickly, providing a good environment for your succulent's roots to grow.   Maintaining Succulents after Watering Light Management Succulents that have just been watered should not be placed in direct sunlight, but should be placed in a location with diffused light, such as a north window sill or a bright place indoors, to avoid the strong light that causes the leaves to lose water and shrivel up. After the succulent has been potted (about 1 - 2 weeks), gradually increase the light.  Ventilation Good ventilation speeds up the evaporation of soil moisture and reduces the possibility of root rot. You can put the succulent in a well-ventilated place, such as near a window or a fan, to let the air circulate and help the soil maintain the right humidity. Observe the growth status After turning over the pot and watering, closely observe the succulent's growth status. If the leaves are full and shiny, it means the potting is going well; if the leaves are wrinkled and soft, it may be due to lack of water or the root system has not yet recovered, so don't be in a hurry to water, check the soil dryness and moisture and the root system before making a decision. Common Problems and Solutions What should I do if I water after turning over the pot, and the leaves melt? This is most likely due to overwatering or poor ventilation. Immediately stop watering, remove the succulent from the pot, and check the root system for rot. If the root system is rotted, cut off the rotted part, sterilize it, and repot it in dry soil and put it in a ventilated place to dry out. I haven't been watering since I turned the pot over and my succulent leaves are badly wrinkled? When the succulent leaves are badly wrinkled, it means that it has been dehydrated. You can use a spray bottle to spray water on the soil surface and around the plant to increase the air humidity, and then water a little bit in small quantities to make the soil slightly moist after the leaves have recovered a little.   Start the journey of revitalizing your succulent after repotting Repotting is a great opportunity to revitalize your succulent, and mastering the watering techniques after repotting can make this “new life” go more smoothly. The One Bloom not only provides high quality succulent-specific repotting soil, but also a wide range of pots that are suitable for different varieties of succulents, so your succulent has a comfortable “new home”. From pot turning to watering, treat every step with care, and you will find that the succulents will reward you with full leaves and vigorous growth. Take action now and give your succulent a complete “new look”!

Imagine being woken up by the smell of coffee in the morning, and turning your head to see the round and full succulents on the window sill, shimmering in the sunlight; or late at night when you are working late at night, raising your eyes and catch a glimpse of the naive “succulent ball” on the desk, which instantly disperses your body of fatigue. This is the healing magic of indoor planting succulents! However, many people in maintenance are stuck on the same problem: succulent. In the end, how much water do we need to water? How often should I water? How do you know if you're watering too much? Don't worry, today we will take you to unlock this key knowledge so that you can succulent goodbye to “water anxiety” and grow wild indoors!  Why has watering become the “number one problem” in succulent care?  Originating from arid desert lands, succulents have evolved a superb ability to store water, with their plump leaves and rhizomes acting like a “small reservoir”. However, this has also made them extraordinarily “waterlogged,” and improper watering is the number one cause of succulent death in-home care. The “behind-the-scenes pushers” that affect the amount and frequency of watering  Seasons: a guide to the “rhythm of watering” for succulents  Spring carnival season: the temperature warms up, the sun is abundant, and succulents open a “crazy growth mode,” the amount of water needed increases dramatically. Generally, water once a week, but if you encounter continuous rainy days, air humidity, soil drying slowly, extend to about 10 days of watering; happen to be sunny, water evaporation fast, shorten to 5 - 6 days of watering is also no problem. Summer dormant period: high temperatures let many succulents into the “lying flat” state, growth stagnation, and water demand is sharply reduced. Dormant succulents, 10 - 15 days along the pot side of a small amount of watering once, do not pour through; not dormant varieties, choose early morning or evening, cool normal watering, avoid midday “barbecue mode”.  Fall Golden Period: Similar to spring, it is the peak growing season for succulents, so watering once a week is a good idea. As the weather turns cooler, slowly reduce the frequency to prepare for the cold winter.  Winter “health bureau”: low temperatures, slow growth of succulents, half a month or even once a month watering can be, see the leaves slightly wrinkled, and then water is not too late. If you put it in a heated room, it can grow normally, 7 - 10 days after watering once, but pay attention to the water temperature and room temperature is similar, and choose to water at noon to prevent frostbite.  Environment: the “watering code” hidden in the details  Light and temperature: sufficient light, high temperature, water evaporation, such as facing the south, west of the window sill, strong light, 3 - 4 days to water; weak light, low-temperature corners, watering once a week or even longer. But always remember, don't water the succulent under the big sun, or the leaves will be “scalded” in minutes.  Ventilation conditions: well-ventilated places, water dispersed quickly, watering can be a little more diligent; poor ventilation, moisture to rely on the soil does not go, it is necessary to lengthen the watering interval, or smothering the roots will rot.  Indoor humidity: high humidity environment, such as always open humidifier, or southern rainy season, originally 3 days to water once, have to change to 5 - 7 days; dry environment, like the northern heated room, in addition to normal watering, but also the plant around the water spray to increase humidity, but don't spray to the leaves, to prevent the accumulation of water rotting leaves.  Own conditions: the “individual needs” of succulent  Variety differences: thick leaves have “water storage big”, such as peach eggs, drought tolerance, 10 - 15 days watering once; thin leaves are "consumptive players ", like Sedum Clavatum, 7 - 10 days to water once.  Plant size: large succulent root system developed, water storage, watering volume and frequency have to be increased; a small succulent root system is weak, a small amount of multiple watering, don't stagnate water.  Pots and soil: red ceramic pots, breathable tile pots, water evaporation fast, 2 - 3 days watering; ceramic pots, plastic pots have strong water retention, 5 - 7 days watering. The same goes for the soil: granular soil is breathable and can be watered regularly; garden soil retains water and needs to be watered less.  3 steps to quickly determine: your succulent is not “drink support”?  Step1: look at the leaves “face.”  When watering too much, the leaves will send out a “distress signal”: become transparent, watered down, like being boiled, yellowish in color, soft to the touch, and fall off at the slightest touch. Like succulents in the genus Staphylococcus, the center leaf will also lighten. If the leaves are soft but not transparent, watering can be restored; it is a water shortage, so don't get confused.  Step 2: Measure the “wetness” of the soil  Insert your finger or a small wooden stick into the soil 2 - 3 centimeters, if it feels wet, or even can be squeezed out of the water, and just a few days after watering, the probability is that you have over-watered. Under normal circumstances, the soil will slowly dry out after watering. If it stays wet, stop! Then look at the bottom hole of the pot; there is always water seeping out, which is also a sign of watering too much. Step 3: Check the root “health”  When a succulent is in poor condition and you suspect that you have overwatered it, carefully get it out of the pot. Healthy roots are white and resilient; if they are rotten, they are black and soft and have a strange odor. When you find rotten roots, immediately cut off the rotten part, sterilize it, and replant it in dry soil.  The “right way to water” succulents  Keep in mind the principle of “watering through dryness.”  Wait until the soil is completely dry, and then water until the water runs out of the bottom of the pot. This allows the root system to drink enough water and does not keep the soil half-dry and half-wet, reducing the risk of rotting roots. But don't water for too long, or the soil will be too wet and hard to dry, easy for black rot. Freshly potted succulent, do not rush to water, wait a week, and then, according to the soil's dry and wet situation, decide.  Choose the right tool, and half the effort  A fine spout watering can or syringe is a “watering artifact” that can accurately control the flow of water, along the edge of the pot, slowly water, and does not pour water into the leaves. If the water droplets are accidentally left in the middle of the leaves, quickly blow dry with your mouth or take a paper towel to dry; otherwise the sunlight, the sunlight will be “disfigured”.  Flexible adjustment, raise the “exclusive rhythm”  More observation, more summarization, combined with the season, the environment, and plant conditions, to find the most suitable for their own succulent watering routine. The One Bloom has prepared a super-practical succulent maintenance kit, that not only has good succulent varieties, but also professional granular soil and watering cans, to help you easily! The One Bloom has prepared a super practical succulent care kit for you!

Imagina el viento frío aullando fuera de tu ventana y la cálida luz amarilla dentro; tus suculentas siguen hermosas y exuberantes, con hojas brillantes que les dan un toque de vida invernal. ¡Pero no dejes que un riego inadecuado las arruine esta temporada! Mucha gente se pregunta en invierno: ¿con qué frecuencia regar? Regar más las raíces podridas, regar menos las secas. ¡No te asustes! Hoy te enseñaremos la regla de oro del riego invernal para que estas suculentas, como los duendes del desierto, también crezcan sanas durante la temporada de frío. ¿Por qué es crucial el riego invernal para las suculentas? Las bajas temperaturas y el aire seco del invierno pueden provocar que las suculentas crezcan lentamente o incluso entren en letargo. En esta época, su necesidad de agua se reduce drásticamente. Si se riegan con la frecuencia habitual, es como verter agua helada en un frío día de invierno, lo que no solo provocará congelación en las raíces, sino que también encharcará el suelo, lo que puede causar problemas graves como raíces podridas y podredumbre negra. Sin embargo, no corte el riego por completo; la cantidad adecuada de agua puede mantener sus actividades vitales, permitiendo que las plantas sobrevivan el invierno sin problemas. La regla de oro para regar las suculentas en invierno Frecuencia de riego: Menos es más, el riego lento es clave Al regar suculentas en invierno, es fundamental recordar que "menos es más". Generalmente, en un entorno donde la temperatura interior se mantiene entre 15 y 27 °C (60 y 80 °F): Variedades inactivas: para suculentas inactivas en invierno, como Aeonium aureum y Lithops , basta con regar cada uno o dos meses. Algunas variedades incluso pueden regarse una o dos veces durante el invierno. Variedades no inactivas, como Echeveria Peach Pride y Echeveria Silk Veil , así como otras suculentas de invierno de crecimiento lento, requieren riego una vez cada 3 o 4 semanas, es suficiente. Supongamos que la temperatura interior es inferior a 10 °C (50 °F). En ese caso, se recomienda reducir la frecuencia de riego o incluso suspenderlo, ya que la humedad del suelo se evapora más lentamente a temperaturas más bajas y las suculentas son menos propensas a deshidratarse. Riego​ Métodos : Riego preciso para evitar " mojarse " Para regar en invierno, use una regadera de pico fino (de 3 a 8 dólares para empezar) y riegue lentamente por el borde de la maceta, permitiendo que el agua penetre en la tierra y evitando mojar las hojas. Si el agua se acumula en la superficie de las hojas, puede congelarse fácilmente con el frío. La cantidad de agua que riegue debe ser suficiente para que el agua salga del fondo de la maceta. Después de regar, recuerde vaciar rápidamente el agua de la bandeja para evitar que las raíces se empapen. Cómo juzgar el suelo húmedo y seco: tres consejos 1. Prueba del dedo: Introduce el dedo en la tierra de 2 a 3 centímetros. Si la notas seca, puedes regar; si aún está húmeda, espera un poco más. 2. Prueba del palillo: Inserte un palillo profundamente en la tierra, sáquelo y observe si hay humedad. Si está seco, es hora de regar. 3. Método del peso de la maceta: Sienta el peso de la maceta antes y después de regar. Una maceta más ligera significa que es hora de reponer agua. Circunstancias excepcionales: la respuesta de la habitación climatizada y de la habitación climatizada Si su casa tiene calefacción en invierno, el aire interior se volverá particularmente seco. En este caso, aunque no es necesario aumentar drásticamente la frecuencia de riego, colocar las suculentas cerca de una pequeña bandeja con agua y piedrecitas puede ayudar a mejorar la humedad ambiental. Sin embargo, tenga cuidado de que el agua no salpique la tierra. Si la coloca en una habitación con aire acondicionado, evite colocar las suculentas directamente en el aire acondicionado y ajuste la frecuencia de riego según corresponda. Consejos creativos para el cuidado de suculentas en invierno Calidez y decoración a la vez Usa suéteres viejos y lana para tejer una bonita funda para maceta que le dará un toque cálido y creativo a la suculenta "abrigo de invierno". También puedes colocar piñas y ramas secas alrededor de las macetas para crear un ambiente invernal. Arreglo temático festivo A medida que se acerca la Navidad, considere agregar mini adornos para el árbol de Navidad, pequeñas campanas o envolver pequeñas luces de colores alrededor de las macetas suculentas para crear un centro de mesa único en la mesa festiva. El riego de las suculentas en invierno es un problema común y existen soluciones. Hoja suave y arrugada Razón: Puede deberse a una escasez de agua causada por un riego insuficiente, o la temperatura puede ser demasiado baja después del riego, lo que permite que el sistema de raíces se congele. Solución: Si le falta agua, repóngala con moderación. Si está congelada, corte la parte congelada, trasládela a un lugar cálido, suspenda el riego y repóngala en pequeñas cantidades cuando se recupere. Podredumbre de la raíz Causa: Riego excesivo, el suelo permanecerá húmedo durante mucho tiempo. Solución: retire inmediatamente la maceta, limpie el sistema de raíces podrido, desinféctela sumergiéndola en solución de carbendazim, luego séquela y vuelva a plantarla en tierra seca. Manchas negras en las hojas Causa: Congelación en las hojas después de recibir agua a bajas temperaturas. Solución: Cortar las hojas con manchas negras, mantener la planta seca para evitar que se vuelva a mojar y esperar a que crezcan nuevos brotes. ¡Actúe ahora para mantener sus suculentas calientes durante el invierno!   Con estos consejos de riego invernal, ¡tus suculentas podrán olvidarse de las raíces podridas y mantenerse radiantes durante la temporada de frío! The One Bloom ha preparado un paquete económico para los amantes del cuidado de suculentas invernales, que incluye variedades resistentes al frío, sustratos especiales para invierno y una guía detallada de cuidados. ¡Pídelo ahora y disfruta de un servicio de entrega rápido! A partir de ahora, cuida bien de tus suculentas y espera a la primavera para cosechar un vibrante "bosque de suculentas".

Imagina esta escena: la luz de la mañana se filtra a través de las cortinas transparentes, proyectando un brillo arcoíris sobre las hojas de las suculentas en el alféizar de la ventana. A altas horas de la noche, mientras trabajas horas extra, el " Lithops " de tu escritorio brilla como una piedra luminosa, disipando al instante la fatiga: esta es la magia curativa de las suculentas de interior. No dejes que la idea anticuada de que "las suculentas solo se pueden cultivar en exteriores" te detenga. Hoy te guiaremos a través de la guía completa para traer hadas del desierto a tu hogar, transformando tu sala de estar y dormitorio en espacios vibrantes, naturales y curativos. ¿Por qué las suculentas son las compañeras ideales para la jardinería de interior? Las suculentas son las plantas de bajo mantenimiento por excelencia: sus tallos y hojas carnosos pueden almacenar grandes cantidades de agua, y su tolerancia a la sequía permite evitar regarlas una o dos veces sin problema, lo que las hace perfectas para el ajetreado estilo de vida urbano. Aún más cautivadora es su estética vegetal: las formas de las hojas varían desde redondas, como garras de oso, hasta angulares, como cristales; los colores incluyen rosa gelatina, morado degradado y verde intenso, y las texturas se asemejan a rayas de cebra o patrones de estrellas. Cada maceta es una obra de arte viviente que infunde vitalidad natural a tu hogar. Reglas de oro para el éxito de las suculentas de interior: Gestión de la luz: Recrear las condiciones de la luz solar en el desierto Preferencia de luz natural: Los alféizares de las ventanas orientados al sur o al oeste son ideales, con 4 a 6 horas de luz solar directa al día, para mantener una forma compacta de la planta y colores vibrantes. Solución de iluminación artificial: Las luces LED de cultivo (entre 15 y 50 dólares) son esenciales para apartamentos o para usar en invierno. Cuélguelas a 15-30 cm por encima de las plantas y hágalas funcionar de 10 a 12 horas diarias para simular largas horas de luz. Filosofía del riego: La sabiduría de que menos es más Método de evaluación de humedad/sequedad: Introduzca el dedo 2 cm en la tierra; riegue solo cuando la sienta seca. Después de regar hasta que el agua drene por el fondo de la maceta, retire rápidamente el agua estancada de la bandeja para evitar la pudrición de las raíces. Herramientas y técnicas: Use una regadera de pico fino (3-8 dólares) para controlar el riego con precisión, evitando así mojar las hojas. Las macetas de cerámica requieren una capa de grava o bolitas de arcilla en el fondo para mejorar el drenaje. Ajustes estacionales: Riegue cada 1 o 2 semanas durante las temporadas de crecimiento de primavera y verano, y cada 3 o 4 semanas durante los períodos de inactividad de otoño e invierno. Configure un recordatorio en su teléfono para revisar la tierra regularmente. Fórmula del suelo: crea una "villa vegetal" que respire Recomendación de mezcla profesional: 50% de tierra granular (roca volcánica/piedra pómez/arena gruesa) + 30% de turba + 20% de perlita, equilibrando el drenaje y la retención de agua. Consejos de cuidado avanzado: Los cultivadores californianos añaden cáscaras de huevo trituradas para complementar el calcio. La mezcla de tierra se puede hornear a 93 °C (200 °F) durante 30 minutos para esterilizarla y eliminar las plagas. La elección del jardinero perezoso: la tierra específica para suculentas One Bloom , formulada para climas estadounidenses, está lista para usar para mayor comodidad. Manejo de temperatura y humedad: crear un microambiente de crecimiento confortable Rango de temperatura ideal: 15-27 °C (60-80 °F) es la temperatura óptima para el crecimiento. Manténgala alejada de las rejillas de ventilación y radiadores para evitar cambios bruscos de temperatura. Plan de ajuste de humedad: Las suculentas prefieren ambientes con baja humedad. En regiones secas, coloque guijarros en una bandeja con agua para aumentar la humedad local mediante evaporación (evite rociar directamente). Guía de solución de problemas comunes: 3 pasos para resolver problemas de atención Estiramiento y desvanecimiento Trasládelas inmediatamente a una zona bien iluminada o enciende las luces de cultivo. Recorta las ramas estiradas para la propagación; las nuevas plantas serán más compactas después de dos semanas. Las hojas se están volviendo acuosas y suaves. Deje de regar y asegúrese de que haya una ventilación adecuada. Retire la planta para inspeccionar las raíces. Si las raíces están podridas, córtelas y sumérjalas en un fungicida. Luego, déjelas secar durante dos días antes de trasplantarlas a tierra fresca y seca. Infestación de cochinillas Limpie las hojas con un hisopo de algodón humedecido en alcohol al 75 %. Aísle las plantas infectadas para evitar su propagación. Espolvoree polvo blanco sobre la superficie de la maceta para evitar la reaparición. El crecimiento sano debería reanudarse en una semana. ¡Comienza hoy tu plan de oasis interior! Desde la planta de jade que despierta con la luz de la mañana hasta los Lithops que te acompañan en la noche, las suculentas alivian el cansancio de la vida urbana con su silenciosa vitalidad. ¿Por qué no empezar con 3-5 variedades básicas y probar arreglos creativos, como minipaisajes en cajas de madera o botellas colgantes de vidrio? Experimenta la satisfacción de verlas crecer desde pequeñas plántulas hasta plantas exuberantes y desbordantes. The One Bloom selecciona una selección de variedades de suculentas, desde la Cotyledon Tomentosa hasta la Graptopetalum amethystinum (Rose) Walther , que cambia de color. Con un solo clic, puedes enviar elfos del desierto directamente a tu ventana. ¡Este fin de semana, usa suculentas para plantar un oasis de vida!