Succulent Care Guide

When watering your succulent, you notice that the roots have started to emerge from the drainage holes, and the potting soil has become as hard as a rock — it’s time to give it a new home. But looking at the delicate leaves and tangled roots, you hesitate: Will transplanting it cause any harm? In fact, transplanting is a “necessary step” in the growth process of succulents, just like how humans need to outgrow their clothes as they grow. Once the roots of a succulent have filled the pot, repotting is the only way for it to continue growing healthily. Today, we'll walk you through the process of transplanting succulents, from determining the right timing to post-repotting care, with each step clearly explained so even beginners can follow along easily.  Why transplant succulents? These signs will tell you the answer. Succulents do not necessarily need to be transplanted every year, but when the following situations occur, they must be repotted in a timely manner: Root system is overgrown: Roots are poking out of the drainage holes, or after removing the plant from the pot, you find that the roots are tangled together (“root ball”), and the soil is squeezed by the roots with no gaps.  Compacted soil: Water penetrates slowly after watering, the soil is hard and loses its porosity, and such soil cannot provide sufficient oxygen to the roots. Stunted growth: The succulent does not grow for a long time, and the leaves turn yellow and soft. After ruling out pests and diseases, it is likely that the soil nutrients have been depleted, and repotting is needed to replenish the soil.  Newly purchased succulents: Succulents purchased online or at flower markets are often grown in temporary nutrient-rich soil. It is best to transplant them into soil suitable for long-term growth upon arrival to avoid issues later on.  Preparation before transplanting: Prepare all necessary tools and materials.  Essential tools Pots: Choose pots based on the size of the succulent, with a diameter 1-2 cm larger than the original pot (too large a pot may cause waterlogging). Prioritize red clay or purple sand pots (for good air permeability), and ensure the bottom has drainage holes. The One Bloom's “Succulent-Specific Pot Set” (diameter 8-15 cm) is suitable for transplanting succulents of various sizes. Soil: Use loose, well-draining succulent-specific soil. Beginners can purchase The One Bloom's succulent transplanting soil (60% particles, containing peat moss, perlite, and volcanic rock) or mix their own (3 parts particles + 2 parts peat moss).  Tools: Gardening trowel (for filling soil), tweezers (for arranging roots), scissors (for trimming rotten roots), fungicide (for disinfecting roots), gloves (for hand protection, especially when transplanting prickly or toxic succulents). Transplanting timing: Choose the right season for high success rates The best time for transplanting is spring or autumn (the growing season for succulents), when the temperature is suitable (15-25°C), the root system of succulents is highly active, and recovery after transplanting is fast. Transplanting in summer can easily cause root rot due to high temperatures, while transplanting in winter results in slow growth and a long recovery period. In emergency situations (such as root rot), transplanting should be done immediately, regardless of the season, but care must be taken to control the environmental temperature. Detailed transplanting steps: Complete in 6 easy steps Step 1: Remove from pot — Gently remove the succulent  Stop watering 1–2 days in advance to allow the potting soil to dry slightly, making it easier to remove the plant from the pot.  Gently tap the sides of the pot with your hands, or insert a trowel along the edge to loosen the soil. Hold the base of the succulent and gently pull the plant out along with the soil clump. If the soil is severely compacted, you can break the pot (for disposable plastic pots) to avoid damaging the roots by pulling. Step 2: Clean the roots and old soil  Gently shake off the old soil from the roots to expose healthy white roots (leave a small amount of soil around the base; do not clean it completely).  Inspect the roots: Trim off any rotten, blackened, or withered roots (use disinfected scissors, disinfecting them after each cut), retain healthy roots, and trim excessively long roots by one-third (to promote new root growth).  Step 3: Disinfection — Preventing bacterial infection  Soak the trimmed roots in a solution of multi-fungicide (concentration 1:1000) for 10–15 minutes, then remove and place in a well-ventilated area to dry until the root surface is dry and wrinkled (typically 1–2 days, or up to 3 days for larger succulents).  Drying is crucial for successful transplantation. Roots that are not fully dried may rot after potting, so patience is essential. Step 4: Potting — Giving the Succulent a New Home Place a layer of clay pellets or gravel (1–2 cm thick) at the bottom of the pot to improve drainage, then add a small amount of soil and form a small mound in the center.  Place the dried succulent on the mound, adjust its position to center the plant, then use tweezers to fill soil around the roots, gently compacting it (do not press too hard to avoid damaging the roots). The soil level should just cover the base of the roots (do not bury the base of the leaves in soil, as this can cause rot). Step 5: Acclimatization — Allow the succulent to adapt to the new environment  Do not water immediately after transplanting. Place the pot in a well-ventilated area with indirect light (such as a north-facing windowsill) to avoid direct sunlight.  After 3–5 days (depending on the condition of the succulent), water sparingly along the edge of the pot (“root-settling water”) to slightly moisten the soil; do not overwater.  During the acclimatization period (approximately 1–2 weeks), the succulent may experience minor leaf drop or softening, which is normal. As long as the root system is not rotting, it will gradually recover after acclimatization. Step 6: Regular Care — Post-Transplant Management  After acclimatization (when the leaves become plump and glossy), move the succulent to a normal light exposure location (adjust light exposure time according to the variety).  Do not fertilize within the first month after transplanting, as the root system is weak and fertilization may cause fertilizer damage; after one month, if the succulent is growing stably, you may apply a small amount of slow-release fertilizer. Transplanting Techniques for Different Types of Succulents Succulents in the seedling stage: Handle with care to protect the root system  Characteristics: The root system is delicate, and the leaves are tender, making them prone to damage during transplantation.  Techniques: When removing from the pot, carefully dig out the plant with a small spoon, retaining as much of the root ball as possible; use seedling soil with a 30% particle ratio (The One Bloom's succulent seedling soil); after repotting, do not compact the soil—gently smooth it out instead; extend the acclimatization period to 2–3 weeks and avoid excessive sunlight. Old-stemmed succulents: Focus on protecting the stem  Characteristics: The stem is woody, and the root system is robust. When transplanting, take care to prevent the stem from breaking.  Tips: When removing from the pot, lift from the bottom; do not grasp the stem and pull forcefully. When pruning the root system, only remove rotten roots; retain healthy old roots as much as possible. When repotting, add a small amount of granular material around the stem to stabilize the plant and prevent it from toppling over. During the acclimatization period, avoid exposure to wind to prevent stem movement from damaging new roots.  Spiny succulents (cacti, cactus balls): Take proper precautions.  Features: Spines can easily cause injuries, so extra care is needed during transplantation.  Tips: Use thick gloves or paper towels to handle the plant, avoiding direct contact with the spines; increase the proportion of soil particles to 70% to prevent root rot; do not water after potting; wait 5–7 days before watering lightly to help the roots establish. Clumping succulents: Take the opportunity to divide the plants. Characteristics: Multiple plants grow in clumps with intertwined root systems; during transplantation, they can be separated into individual plants to increase the number.  Tips: After removing from the pot, gently separate the clustered plants (try not to break the roots), use scissors to cut where they are connected, and retain part of the root system for each plant; disinfect and dry the separated plants, then repot them individually, managing them in the same way as regular transplantation.  Common Problems and Solutions for Transplanting After transplanting, the succulent leaves become watery and rot. Cause: The roots were not dried before potting, or too much water was given after potting, causing the roots to rot. Solution: Immediately remove the plant from the pot, cut off the rotten roots and leaves, disinfect and dry them again, replace the soil, and repot. During the acclimatization period, strictly withhold water until new roots grow.  Succulents wilting and dropping leaves after transplanting  Cause: The acclimatization environment has too much direct sunlight, or the root system is severely damaged and is recovering slowly.  Solution: Move to a more shaded area with diffused light (such as an indoor corner) to reduce water evaporation; avoid frequent watering, keep the soil slightly dry, and patiently wait for the root system to recover (which may take 3–4 weeks).  The plant tips over after potting  Cause: The soil is too loose or the plant is unstable, especially common in tall succulents.  Solution: Insert a small stick around the plant and gently secure the stem with string (do not tie too tightly); remove after the roots have stabilized. Alternatively, add more particles around the roots to increase stability. 3 Practical Tips to Improve Transplant Success Rates Soil Moisture: “Better Dry Than Wet” During transplantation, the soil should not be too wet (it should be moist enough to form a ball but crumble apart when released). Water sparingly when establishing roots, and keep the soil slightly dry during the acclimatization period. This environment promotes rapid root growth and reduces the risk of root rot. Avoid “Over-Pruning” Beginners often fall into the trap of “pruning obsession,” cutting off healthy roots. In reality, as long as the roots are not rotten, it is best to retain as many as possible. Healthy roots help succulents adapt to their new environment more quickly. Do not move the plant after transplanting Avoid moving the pot frequently during the acclimatization period. A stable environment allows the succulent to focus on developing new roots. Frequent changes in light and temperature conditions keep the succulent in a “stress state,” prolonging the recovery period.  Make repotting a “boost” for succulent growth.  Repotting is not simply “changing pots,” but rather giving succulents a chance to “rejuvenate.” The One Bloom's horticultural experts recommend repotting most succulents once a year, which not only replenishes nutrients in the soil but also allows you to check the health of the root system. Watching the repotted succulents slowly grow new leaves and develop a robust root system is a sense of accomplishment that can only be truly appreciated through personal experience. Check your succulents now to see if they need transplanting, and give them a new home using the correct method, allowing them to thrive in their new environment! 

At noon, the sunlight streams through the window, casting glaring spots on the succulent leaves. You suddenly find yourself torn: should you move it to a shady spot, or let it soak up the sun? A few days ago, your neighbor's succulent wilted after being exposed to the sun all day, but your own plant, placed on the balcony under direct sunlight, seems to be thriving. Actually, succulents' preference for direct sunlight is like people's tolerance for spicy food—some can't get enough of it, while others can't handle even a little. Today, we'll break down the “light preferences” of different succulents, so you'll know exactly which ones need sun and which ones need shade, and you'll never have to worry about sun exposure again.  Succulents and direct sunlight: not a “black and white” relationship  Sunlight is the energy source for succulents to carry out photosynthesis, but the intensity and duration of direct sunlight directly affect their growth. For some succulents, a few hours of direct sunlight every day is a “nutritious feast”; for others, direct sunlight can be a “scorching flame.” The key lies in their native environmental light conditions — succulents from deserts have long adapted to intense sunlight, while those from forest edges prefer dappled, diffused light. Desert-type succulents: Direct sunlight is an “essential requirement.”   Representative species: Cacti, cactus balls, Lunar Moon, Winter Beauty, etc., which are native to desert and Gobi environments with intense sunlight, require 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.  Light response: Adequate direct sunlight makes their stems thicker, leaves more compact, and colors more vibrant (e.g., Lunar Moon develops pink edges when exposed to sunlight); insufficient light causes them to grow tall and spindly, with thin stems and sparse leaves.  Care Recommendations: Place them on a south-facing balcony, rooftop, or open-air courtyard where they can receive direct sunlight year-round (short-term shade during midday in summer to avoid extreme heat). The One Bloom's “Desert Succulent Collection” includes such varieties, paired with breathable red clay pots, making them ideal for outdoor cultivation. Succulents with powdery/waxy leaves: More “sun-resistant” under direct sunlight  Representative varieties: Guanghan Palace, Echeveria laui, Blue Stone Lotus, etc., with a layer of white powder or wax on the leaf surface that reflects some strong light, suitable for 4-6 hours of direct sunlight daily.   Light response: Direct sunlight thickens the powder layer, protecting leaves from sunburn, while also making leaves more upright and compact; insufficient light thins the powder layer, causing leaves to spread out.  Care tips: Place on an east- or west-facing windowsill to receive morning or afternoon direct sunlight, avoiding midday intense light (though the powder layer can withstand sun exposure, extreme heat may still cause burns). These succulents “fear direct sunlight”; diffused light is more suitable.   Haworthia: Direct sunlight can “burn” them.   Representative varieties: Jade Dew, Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia truncata, etc., native to the shrublands of Africa, accustomed to diffused light environments, requiring only 3-4 hours of sunlight daily, and must not be exposed to strong direct sunlight.  Light response: Direct sunlight causes leaves to lose transparency (the “window-like” surface becomes cloudy) and edges to scorch; under diffused light, leaves remain plump, translucent, and vibrantly green.  Care recommendations: Place on a north-facing windowsill or in a bright indoor location; use sheer curtains to filter strong light. If placed on a south-facing windowsill, keep 1-2 meters away from the window to avoid direct sunlight on the leaves.  Epiphytic succulents: Direct sunlight can cause “dehydration.” Representative species: Air plants, certain orchids, native to tropical rainforest tree trunks, where light is primarily diffused through leaves; require 3-5 hours of gentle light daily.  Light response: Direct sunlight causes leaves to dehydrate, wrinkle, and even wither; under diffused light, leaves remain flat and vibrant in color.  Care tips: Place in a bright indoor location or on an east-facing windowsill (only receiving morning weak light), avoiding direct sunlight. Pair with The One Bloom's hanging planter and hang it near a window where diffused light is available.  Warning signs of improper lighting and solutions Signs of sunburn: scorched spots appear on the leaves. Symptoms: Brown or white spots or patches appear on the leaves, with scorched edges and a rough texture when touched. In severe cases, the entire leaf may wither.  Solution: Immediately move the succulent to a location with diffused light, and trim off severely sunburned leaves. Avoid direct sunlight afterward, reduce watering until the wounds heal, and allow the plant to recover gradually.  Signs of insufficient light: Leggy growth, fading color Symptoms: Rapid elongation of the stem, increased internode spacing (greater distance between leaves), lighter leaf color (e.g., Purple Pearl turning from purple back to green), and overall leaning toward the light source.  Solution: Gradually increase light exposure (add 1 hour per day, avoiding sudden intense sunlight), and place in a brighter location; for severe stretching, trim the top to promote branching and create a more compact plant shape. Lighting Adjustment Techniques for Different Seasons Spring (Growing Season): Gradually Increase Light Exposure After the weak light environment of winter, succulents have reduced tolerance to strong light. In spring, gradually increase light exposure time from 2 hours per day to 6 hours, avoiding sudden exposure to intense sunlight that could cause burns. Summer (high-temperature period): Differentiate treatment. Sun-loving succulents: Provide brief shade (using shade cloth) during midday (12–3 PM) to avoid extreme temperatures above 35°C; Sun-sensitive succulents: Keep them in diffused light throughout summer, away from direct sunlight, while enhancing ventilation and cooling. Autumn (color development period): Seize the “golden light” Autumn offers mild and prolonged sunlight, making it an ideal time for succulents to thrive. Whether sun-loving or shade-loving, succulents can benefit from increased light exposure (shade-loving varieties can receive an additional 1–2 hours of indirect light) to enhance leaf color. Winter (low-temperature period): Maximize light exposure  With short daylight hours and weak light intensity, all succulents should be placed in the brightest location (south-facing windowsill). Sun-loving succulents can receive direct sunlight all day, while sun-sensitive succulents can be placed near the window to receive more indirect light, helping them withstand the cold. Lighting Solutions for Insufficient Natural Light If your home has poor lighting conditions (e.g., north-facing rooms, high-rise apartments), you can use plant grow lights to compensate:   Type: LED succulent grow lights (US$20–30), with a spectrum suitable for succulent growth and low energy consumption.  Usage instructions: Place the light 30-50 cm away from the succulents, illuminate for 8-10 hours daily to simulate natural sunlight; place sun-loving succulents closer (30 cm) and sun-sensitive ones farther away (50 cm).  Notes: Supplemental lighting cannot completely replace natural sunlight, but it can maintain basic succulent growth and prevent excessive elongation.  3 Common Misconceptions About Light Care for Beginners Misconception 1: All succulents need “plenty of sunlight.” Wrong! Succulents such as Haworthia and epiphytic types are sensitive to direct sunlight. Blindly exposing them to sunlight will only cause sunburn. Adjust the amount of light according to the characteristics of the species. Misconception 2: The light on an indoor windowsill is “sufficient.” Not necessarily! The light intensity on a north-facing windowsill may be only one-third of that on a south-facing one, which is far insufficient for sun-loving succulents. Supplemental lighting is required. Misconception 3: Water droplets on leaves “do not affect light exposure” Wrong! Water droplets on leaves can act as convex lenses under sunlight, focusing light and causing leaf burns. After watering, avoid direct sunlight and wait until the droplets have dried before exposing the plant to sunlight. The Ultimate Advice for Ensuring Succulents “Enjoy Appropriate Light Exposure” The key to providing adequate light for succulents is to “match their native environment”—first determine where the species originates from, then provide similar light conditions. Each succulent label at The One Bloom specifies light requirements (e.g., “full sun,” “partial sun”), which beginners can use as a reference for placement. In fact, succulents are more resilient than we think; occasional improper lighting won't kill them immediately. As long as you adjust promptly, they can gradually recover. By carefully observing their reactions, you'll eventually find the optimal lighting method for your succulents, allowing them to grow healthily under sunlight (or diffused light).  

Early morning sunshine into the windowsill, you carefully removed the succulent from the old pot, watching those entangled roots stretch out, and replaced it with new soil, a sense of accomplishment! But then a question pops up: Should you water after turning the pot over or not? Some say to immediately water, some say to wait a few days, simply making people tangled to the point of no return. Don't panic, today is for you to unveil the mystery of succulent watering after turning pots, so that your succulent in the pot after the smooth “home”, rubbing long non-stop!  Why is watering after turning pots so critical? Turning pots for succulents is like a “move”; the root system may be subject to different degrees of damage, especially those aging, rotting roots are pruned, the wound needs time to heal. At this time, if you do not water properly, it is like pouring sewage on a freshly injured wound, which can easily trigger infection and lead to root rot. However, it is not good to completely disregard watering; the right amount of water can help the new soil and root system closely together, providing a boost to the succulent's recovery. Therefore, watering after potting is a key step in determining whether succulents can be successfully potted. Should I water my succulent after repotting? It depends on the situation. Situation 1: Healthy root system, no damage If the succulent's root system is intact, and there is no root pruning, just because the potting soil is stagnant or the plant has grown up and needs to be changed to a bigger pot, then you can water it once right after turning the pot over. Water should be poured slowly along the edge of the pot until the water runs out from the bottom of the pot, which will allow the new soil to fully fit the root system, reduce the soil gap, and help the succulent quickly adapt to the new environment. However, it should be noted that after watering, put the succulent in a well-ventilated place with diffused light and avoid direct sunlight. Situation 2: Trimmed the root system, and there is a wound  When the succulent root system appears to be aging, rotting, or winding seriously, we will prune it, and then the root system will have a wound. In this case, you must not water immediately after turning the pot; you need to let the succulent “dry roots” 3 - 5 days, so that the wound can heal. Wait for the wound to dry, and then plant the succulent into the new soil, at this time do not rush to water, after another 1 - 2 days, see the surface of the potting soil is dry, a small amount of water along the edge of the pot, so that the soil can be slightly moist, the purpose is to stimulate the root system to resume growth.  Situation 3: Succulents are in a special period Dormant period: If the succulent is in a dormant state when you turn over the pot, such as some succulent varieties during the summer heat, it is recommended that you do not water for the time being after turning over the pot, and then water a small amount when the succulent awakens from dormancy and begins to show signs of growth.  Seedling: Seedling succulent root system is fragile, even if the root system is intact after turning pots, do not water a lot, you can use spraying to make the soil slightly moist, to avoid the root system being impacted by the impact of water.    The correct way to water after turning over the pot, and the precautions Watering time has to be careful In either case, watering after turning over the pot should be avoided in the strong midday sunlight. Choosing the morning or evening, when the temperature is suitable, can reduce the water evaporation is too fast or too slow on the succulent. Watering after turning the pot in winter should be selected at noon on a sunny day, and to ensure that the water temperature is similar to the room temperature, to prevent cold water from stimulating the root system.  Watering methods should be precise Root fixing water: For succulents with undamaged root systems, use a thin spouted watering can to water thoroughly along the sides of the pot, letting the water slowly seep into the soil, and do not directly wash over the plant's leaves, especially at the center of the leaves, to prevent stagnant water from rotting.  Watering in small amounts: For succulents that have had their roots pruned and wounds healed, the first watering should be small, only letting the surface of the soil 2 - 3 cm wet, and then gradually increasing the amount of watering according to the dryness of the soil. The choice of soil is fundamental  The choice of soil when turning over pots has a big impact on the effectiveness of watering, and the right soil will reduce the risk of root rot after watering. We recommend The One Bloom's Succulent Turning Soil, which is a mixture of 50% granular soil (volcanic rock, vermiculite), 30% peat soil, and 20% coco coir. It is very breathable and drains well, and even if you water a little too much, it drains away quickly, providing a good environment for your succulent's roots to grow.   Maintaining Succulents after Watering Light Management Succulents that have just been watered should not be placed in direct sunlight, but should be placed in a location with diffused light, such as a north window sill or a bright place indoors, to avoid the strong light that causes the leaves to lose water and shrivel up. After the succulent has been potted (about 1 - 2 weeks), gradually increase the light.  Ventilation Good ventilation speeds up the evaporation of soil moisture and reduces the possibility of root rot. You can put the succulent in a well-ventilated place, such as near a window or a fan, to let the air circulate and help the soil maintain the right humidity. Observe the growth status After turning over the pot and watering, closely observe the succulent's growth status. If the leaves are full and shiny, it means the potting is going well; if the leaves are wrinkled and soft, it may be due to lack of water or the root system has not yet recovered, so don't be in a hurry to water, check the soil dryness and moisture and the root system before making a decision. Common Problems and Solutions What should I do if I water after turning over the pot, and the leaves melt? This is most likely due to overwatering or poor ventilation. Immediately stop watering, remove the succulent from the pot, and check the root system for rot. If the root system is rotted, cut off the rotted part, sterilize it, and repot it in dry soil and put it in a ventilated place to dry out. I haven't been watering since I turned the pot over and my succulent leaves are badly wrinkled? When the succulent leaves are badly wrinkled, it means that it has been dehydrated. You can use a spray bottle to spray water on the soil surface and around the plant to increase the air humidity, and then water a little bit in small quantities to make the soil slightly moist after the leaves have recovered a little.   Start the journey of revitalizing your succulent after repotting Repotting is a great opportunity to revitalize your succulent, and mastering the watering techniques after repotting can make this “new life” go more smoothly. The One Bloom not only provides high quality succulent-specific repotting soil, but also a wide range of pots that are suitable for different varieties of succulents, so your succulent has a comfortable “new home”. From pot turning to watering, treat every step with care, and you will find that the succulents will reward you with full leaves and vigorous growth. Take action now and give your succulent a complete “new look”!