Succulent Care Guide

While cleaning a vase, you suddenly wondered: if water-cultivated pothos can survive, can succulents grow in water? Previously, when you soaked fallen succulent leaves in water, they actually grew roots, but when you submerged the entire succulent in water, it rotted — the relationship between succulents and water is truly enigmatic. In fact, just as some plants are naturally suited to aquatic environments while others can only thrive in soil, whether succulents can grow in water depends on the variety and method. Today, we’ll uncover the secrets of succulent hydroponics, revealing which succulents can survive in water and how to perform hydroponics properly.  Succulents and Hydroponics: Survival Attempts in Special Environments Hydroponics is an “unconventional” growth method for succulents. Soil provides support and aeration for root systems, while in hydroponics, roots are completely submerged or in contact with water, requiring higher oxygen levels. Some succulents can adapt to aquatic environments by adjusting their root structures (growing aerial roots), while others cannot adapt and may develop root rot due to oxygen deficiency. Therefore, whether succulents can grow in water depends on whether their root systems can be induced to adapt to hydroponic conditions. These succulents “can grow in water” and can also survive in hydroponics.    Succulents that are easy to grow in hydroponics: strong root adaptability.   Representative varieties: Crassula, Winter Beauty, Purple Pearl, Jade Tree, and other Crassulaceae succulents, as well as Pothos (though not a succulent, it is often mistaken for one). The roots of these succulents can quickly develop aerial roots in water to absorb oxygen and moisture.   Hydroponic performance: After hydroponic cultivation, new white roots will grow within 1-2 weeks, and the leaves remain plump. Although growth is slower than in soil cultivation, they can survive long-term; under adequate light, the leaf color also remains vibrant.  Hydroponic recommendations: Use a transparent glass bottle or The One Bloom's specialized hydroponic container (with a stand at the bottom so the root system is not fully submerged), allowing half of the root system to be in contact with water and half exposed to air (to increase oxygen absorption); place in diffused light and avoid direct sunlight, which can cause water temperature to rise.   Leaf Cutting Hydroponics: An Attempt from Leaf to Mature Plant  Representative varieties: The leaves of Lun Yu and Dong Meiren have a high success rate for hydroponic leaf cuttings. Method: Place a healthy leaf on the water surface (without touching the water) or allow the base of the leaf to touch the water surface lightly. Place it in a well-ventilated area with diffused light. After 2–3 weeks, roots will form at the base. Once the roots extend into the water, the leaf will gradually sprout new buds.  Notes: After the leaf roots form, maintain a stable water level with half of the roots submerged; once the new shoots grow larger, they can continue in hydroponics or be transplanted into soil. These succulents are “not suitable for hydroponics”; soil cultivation is safer.  Haworthia: Roots rot easily in water.  Representative varieties: Jade Dew, Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia truncata, etc. Their root systems are fragile and cannot obtain sufficient oxygen in water, making them prone to rot.  Hydroponic risks: Within 3–5 days of hydroponic cultivation, leaves become soft, roots turn black, and even reducing water levels cannot reverse the damage, ultimately leading to the entire plant wilting.  Recommendations: Only soil cultivation is suitable, with a high proportion of coarse soil particles (over 60%) to prevent waterlogging in the pot. Succulents with fuzzy or thick leaves: Prone to rot in hydroponic cultivation  Representative varieties: Bear Cub, Graptopetalum amethystinum (Rose)Walther, Echeveria Laui with fuzzy or thick leaves. If leaves come into contact with water during hydroponic cultivation, they are prone to rot; the root system also struggles to adapt to the aquatic environment.  Hydroponic risks: Leaves mold when wet, roots rot due to oxygen deprivation, and survival rates are extremely low.  Recommendations: Strictly use soil cultivation, avoid wetting leaves when watering, and keep the soil slightly. Detailed Steps for Hydroponic Cultivation of Succulents: From Preparation to Maintenance Step 1: Prepare Hydroponic Containers and Tools Containers: Transparent glass bottles (for easy observation of root systems) and hydroponic pots (with planting baskets). Containers should be washed with clean water in advance to avoid contamination of water quality by residual impurities.  Water Quality: Use tap water that has been left to stand for 1-2 days (to remove chlorine), or purified water, or cooled boiled water. Avoid using tap water directly.  Tools: Scissors (for trimming roots), fungicide (for disinfection), planting basket (to secure the plant, optional).  Step 2: Prepare the Plant and Induce Hydroponic Roots  Selecting plants: Choose healthy, pest-free succulents. After removing them from the pot, gently shake off the soil and rinse the roots with clean water (do not scrub vigorously).   Pruning and disinfecting roots: Trim off rotten or aged roots, retaining healthy white roots. Soak the roots in a multi-fungicide solution for 10 minutes, then remove and air-dry for 1-2 days (to allow wounds to heal).  Step 3: Secure the plant and control the water level  Secure: Place the succulent in a container and secure it with a planting basket or foam board (to prevent the plant from tipping over). Ensure that half of the root system is submerged in water and half is exposed to air (a critical step determining the success of hydroponic cultivation).  Initial care: Place in a well-ventilated area with diffused light. Do not change the water for the first 3 days to allow the roots to acclimate to the environment. After 3 days, if the water remains clear, it can be retained; if it becomes cloudy, replace with fresh water.  Step 4: Post-hydroponic care  Water change frequency: Change water once a week in summer, and every 2-3 weeks in winter. Rinse the inner walls of the container during water changes to prevent algae growth; retain 1/3 of the old water each time to help the roots adapt to the water quality.  Light management: Place on an east- or west-facing windowsill to receive 2-3 hours of diffused light daily, avoiding direct sunlight (excessively high water temperatures can cause root oxygen deprivation).  Fertilization: Nutrient levels in hydroponic systems are limited. Apply 1-2 drops of The One Bloom hydroponic-specific nutrient solution (diluted) monthly to prevent water quality deterioration from over-fertilization. Common Issues and Solutions for Hydroponic Succulents  Blackened or Rotten Roots  Cause: Roots are completely submerged in water (oxygen deprivation) or water quality deteriorates due to infrequent water changes.  Solution: Immediately remove the plant, trim off the rotten roots, disinfect with fungicide, let dry for 1 day, replace with fresh water, and adjust the water level (roots should be half-submerged in water); thoroughly clean and disinfect the container. Yellowing and Wilting Leaves  Cause: Insufficient light (preventing photosynthesis) or water temperature below 10°C.  Solution: Move to a location with more diffused light (e.g., near a window); maintain water temperature above 15°C in winter (place indoors in a warm area, avoiding proximity to cold water sources).  Cloudy water and algae growth  Causes: Direct sunlight causes algae proliferation, or excessive fertilization.  Solution: Move to a shaded area, replace the water, and clean the container; reduce fertilization to avoid nutrient solution residue Hydroponics vs. Soil Cultivation: Which is Better for Succulents? Advantages and Disadvantages of Hydroponics Advantages: Clean and tidy, allows observation of root growth, suitable for indoor decoration; easy watering, no need to worry about soil compaction.  Disadvantages: Slow growth rate, roots prone to oxygen deficiency and rot, high requirements for plant varieties, and prolonged hydroponics may weaken the plant.  Advantages and Disadvantages of Soil Cultivation  Advantages: Roots receive ample oxygen, fast growth rate, are suitable for most succulents, are easy to manage, and high survival rate.  Disadvantages: May have soil dust, and improper watering can cause root rot (but easier to control than hydroponics).  Recommendations  Beginners should prioritize soil cultivation and use The One Bloom's succulent-specific soil for higher survival rates. If you want to try hydroponics, start with easy-to-cultivate varieties such as Lun Yu and Dong Mei Ren, and then try other varieties after gaining experience.  Try hydroponics to experience a different kind of care and fun  Hydroponic succulents are an interesting experiment. Watching the roots spread out in water and the leaves come alive under the sun is a unique experience. The One Bloom's “Hydroponic Succulent Kit” (including easy-to-grow hydroponic varieties, containers, and nutrient solution) is perfect for beginners, priced at 20-25 USD. However, remember that most succulents are better suited for soil cultivation. Hydroponics is merely an aesthetic method and not the optimal choice for long-term growth. Whether cultivated in soil or water, understanding the needs of succulents will ensure their healthy growth. Choose a Lunar Moon today and begin your hydroponic journey!  

At noon, the sunlight streams through the window, casting glaring spots on the succulent leaves. You suddenly find yourself torn: should you move it to a shady spot, or let it soak up the sun? A few days ago, your neighbor's succulent wilted after being exposed to the sun all day, but your own plant, placed on the balcony under direct sunlight, seems to be thriving. Actually, succulents' preference for direct sunlight is like people's tolerance for spicy food—some can't get enough of it, while others can't handle even a little. Today, we'll break down the “light preferences” of different succulents, so you'll know exactly which ones need sun and which ones need shade, and you'll never have to worry about sun exposure again.  Succulents and direct sunlight: not a “black and white” relationship  Sunlight is the energy source for succulents to carry out photosynthesis, but the intensity and duration of direct sunlight directly affect their growth. For some succulents, a few hours of direct sunlight every day is a “nutritious feast”; for others, direct sunlight can be a “scorching flame.” The key lies in their native environmental light conditions — succulents from deserts have long adapted to intense sunlight, while those from forest edges prefer dappled, diffused light. Desert-type succulents: Direct sunlight is an “essential requirement.”   Representative species: Cacti, cactus balls, Lunar Moon, Winter Beauty, etc., which are native to desert and Gobi environments with intense sunlight, require 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.  Light response: Adequate direct sunlight makes their stems thicker, leaves more compact, and colors more vibrant (e.g., Lunar Moon develops pink edges when exposed to sunlight); insufficient light causes them to grow tall and spindly, with thin stems and sparse leaves.  Care Recommendations: Place them on a south-facing balcony, rooftop, or open-air courtyard where they can receive direct sunlight year-round (short-term shade during midday in summer to avoid extreme heat). The One Bloom's “Desert Succulent Collection” includes such varieties, paired with breathable red clay pots, making them ideal for outdoor cultivation. Succulents with powdery/waxy leaves: More “sun-resistant” under direct sunlight  Representative varieties: Guanghan Palace, Echeveria laui, Blue Stone Lotus, etc., with a layer of white powder or wax on the leaf surface that reflects some strong light, suitable for 4-6 hours of direct sunlight daily.   Light response: Direct sunlight thickens the powder layer, protecting leaves from sunburn, while also making leaves more upright and compact; insufficient light thins the powder layer, causing leaves to spread out.  Care tips: Place on an east- or west-facing windowsill to receive morning or afternoon direct sunlight, avoiding midday intense light (though the powder layer can withstand sun exposure, extreme heat may still cause burns). These succulents “fear direct sunlight”; diffused light is more suitable.   Haworthia: Direct sunlight can “burn” them.   Representative varieties: Jade Dew, Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia truncata, etc., native to the shrublands of Africa, accustomed to diffused light environments, requiring only 3-4 hours of sunlight daily, and must not be exposed to strong direct sunlight.  Light response: Direct sunlight causes leaves to lose transparency (the “window-like” surface becomes cloudy) and edges to scorch; under diffused light, leaves remain plump, translucent, and vibrantly green.  Care recommendations: Place on a north-facing windowsill or in a bright indoor location; use sheer curtains to filter strong light. If placed on a south-facing windowsill, keep 1-2 meters away from the window to avoid direct sunlight on the leaves.  Epiphytic succulents: Direct sunlight can cause “dehydration.” Representative species: Air plants, certain orchids, native to tropical rainforest tree trunks, where light is primarily diffused through leaves; require 3-5 hours of gentle light daily.  Light response: Direct sunlight causes leaves to dehydrate, wrinkle, and even wither; under diffused light, leaves remain flat and vibrant in color.  Care tips: Place in a bright indoor location or on an east-facing windowsill (only receiving morning weak light), avoiding direct sunlight. Pair with The One Bloom's hanging planter and hang it near a window where diffused light is available.  Warning signs of improper lighting and solutions Signs of sunburn: scorched spots appear on the leaves. Symptoms: Brown or white spots or patches appear on the leaves, with scorched edges and a rough texture when touched. In severe cases, the entire leaf may wither.  Solution: Immediately move the succulent to a location with diffused light, and trim off severely sunburned leaves. Avoid direct sunlight afterward, reduce watering until the wounds heal, and allow the plant to recover gradually.  Signs of insufficient light: Leggy growth, fading color Symptoms: Rapid elongation of the stem, increased internode spacing (greater distance between leaves), lighter leaf color (e.g., Purple Pearl turning from purple back to green), and overall leaning toward the light source.  Solution: Gradually increase light exposure (add 1 hour per day, avoiding sudden intense sunlight), and place in a brighter location; for severe stretching, trim the top to promote branching and create a more compact plant shape. Lighting Adjustment Techniques for Different Seasons Spring (Growing Season): Gradually Increase Light Exposure After the weak light environment of winter, succulents have reduced tolerance to strong light. In spring, gradually increase light exposure time from 2 hours per day to 6 hours, avoiding sudden exposure to intense sunlight that could cause burns. Summer (high-temperature period): Differentiate treatment. Sun-loving succulents: Provide brief shade (using shade cloth) during midday (12–3 PM) to avoid extreme temperatures above 35°C; Sun-sensitive succulents: Keep them in diffused light throughout summer, away from direct sunlight, while enhancing ventilation and cooling. Autumn (color development period): Seize the “golden light” Autumn offers mild and prolonged sunlight, making it an ideal time for succulents to thrive. Whether sun-loving or shade-loving, succulents can benefit from increased light exposure (shade-loving varieties can receive an additional 1–2 hours of indirect light) to enhance leaf color. Winter (low-temperature period): Maximize light exposure  With short daylight hours and weak light intensity, all succulents should be placed in the brightest location (south-facing windowsill). Sun-loving succulents can receive direct sunlight all day, while sun-sensitive succulents can be placed near the window to receive more indirect light, helping them withstand the cold. Lighting Solutions for Insufficient Natural Light If your home has poor lighting conditions (e.g., north-facing rooms, high-rise apartments), you can use plant grow lights to compensate:   Type: LED succulent grow lights (US$20–30), with a spectrum suitable for succulent growth and low energy consumption.  Usage instructions: Place the light 30-50 cm away from the succulents, illuminate for 8-10 hours daily to simulate natural sunlight; place sun-loving succulents closer (30 cm) and sun-sensitive ones farther away (50 cm).  Notes: Supplemental lighting cannot completely replace natural sunlight, but it can maintain basic succulent growth and prevent excessive elongation.  3 Common Misconceptions About Light Care for Beginners Misconception 1: All succulents need “plenty of sunlight.” Wrong! Succulents such as Haworthia and epiphytic types are sensitive to direct sunlight. Blindly exposing them to sunlight will only cause sunburn. Adjust the amount of light according to the characteristics of the species. Misconception 2: The light on an indoor windowsill is “sufficient.” Not necessarily! The light intensity on a north-facing windowsill may be only one-third of that on a south-facing one, which is far insufficient for sun-loving succulents. Supplemental lighting is required. Misconception 3: Water droplets on leaves “do not affect light exposure” Wrong! Water droplets on leaves can act as convex lenses under sunlight, focusing light and causing leaf burns. After watering, avoid direct sunlight and wait until the droplets have dried before exposing the plant to sunlight. The Ultimate Advice for Ensuring Succulents “Enjoy Appropriate Light Exposure” The key to providing adequate light for succulents is to “match their native environment”—first determine where the species originates from, then provide similar light conditions. Each succulent label at The One Bloom specifies light requirements (e.g., “full sun,” “partial sun”), which beginners can use as a reference for placement. In fact, succulents are more resilient than we think; occasional improper lighting won't kill them immediately. As long as you adjust promptly, they can gradually recover. By carefully observing their reactions, you'll eventually find the optimal lighting method for your succulents, allowing them to grow healthily under sunlight (or diffused light).  

Early morning sunshine into the windowsill, you carefully removed the succulent from the old pot, watching those entangled roots stretch out, and replaced it with new soil, a sense of accomplishment! But then a question pops up: Should you water after turning the pot over or not? Some say to immediately water, some say to wait a few days, simply making people tangled to the point of no return. Don't panic, today is for you to unveil the mystery of succulent watering after turning pots, so that your succulent in the pot after the smooth “home”, rubbing long non-stop!  Why is watering after turning pots so critical? Turning pots for succulents is like a “move”; the root system may be subject to different degrees of damage, especially those aging, rotting roots are pruned, the wound needs time to heal. At this time, if you do not water properly, it is like pouring sewage on a freshly injured wound, which can easily trigger infection and lead to root rot. However, it is not good to completely disregard watering; the right amount of water can help the new soil and root system closely together, providing a boost to the succulent's recovery. Therefore, watering after potting is a key step in determining whether succulents can be successfully potted. Should I water my succulent after repotting? It depends on the situation. Situation 1: Healthy root system, no damage If the succulent's root system is intact, and there is no root pruning, just because the potting soil is stagnant or the plant has grown up and needs to be changed to a bigger pot, then you can water it once right after turning the pot over. Water should be poured slowly along the edge of the pot until the water runs out from the bottom of the pot, which will allow the new soil to fully fit the root system, reduce the soil gap, and help the succulent quickly adapt to the new environment. However, it should be noted that after watering, put the succulent in a well-ventilated place with diffused light and avoid direct sunlight. Situation 2: Trimmed the root system, and there is a wound  When the succulent root system appears to be aging, rotting, or winding seriously, we will prune it, and then the root system will have a wound. In this case, you must not water immediately after turning the pot; you need to let the succulent “dry roots” 3 - 5 days, so that the wound can heal. Wait for the wound to dry, and then plant the succulent into the new soil, at this time do not rush to water, after another 1 - 2 days, see the surface of the potting soil is dry, a small amount of water along the edge of the pot, so that the soil can be slightly moist, the purpose is to stimulate the root system to resume growth.  Situation 3: Succulents are in a special period Dormant period: If the succulent is in a dormant state when you turn over the pot, such as some succulent varieties during the summer heat, it is recommended that you do not water for the time being after turning over the pot, and then water a small amount when the succulent awakens from dormancy and begins to show signs of growth.  Seedling: Seedling succulent root system is fragile, even if the root system is intact after turning pots, do not water a lot, you can use spraying to make the soil slightly moist, to avoid the root system being impacted by the impact of water.    The correct way to water after turning over the pot, and the precautions Watering time has to be careful In either case, watering after turning over the pot should be avoided in the strong midday sunlight. Choosing the morning or evening, when the temperature is suitable, can reduce the water evaporation is too fast or too slow on the succulent. Watering after turning the pot in winter should be selected at noon on a sunny day, and to ensure that the water temperature is similar to the room temperature, to prevent cold water from stimulating the root system.  Watering methods should be precise Root fixing water: For succulents with undamaged root systems, use a thin spouted watering can to water thoroughly along the sides of the pot, letting the water slowly seep into the soil, and do not directly wash over the plant's leaves, especially at the center of the leaves, to prevent stagnant water from rotting.  Watering in small amounts: For succulents that have had their roots pruned and wounds healed, the first watering should be small, only letting the surface of the soil 2 - 3 cm wet, and then gradually increasing the amount of watering according to the dryness of the soil. The choice of soil is fundamental  The choice of soil when turning over pots has a big impact on the effectiveness of watering, and the right soil will reduce the risk of root rot after watering. We recommend The One Bloom's Succulent Turning Soil, which is a mixture of 50% granular soil (volcanic rock, vermiculite), 30% peat soil, and 20% coco coir. It is very breathable and drains well, and even if you water a little too much, it drains away quickly, providing a good environment for your succulent's roots to grow.   Maintaining Succulents after Watering Light Management Succulents that have just been watered should not be placed in direct sunlight, but should be placed in a location with diffused light, such as a north window sill or a bright place indoors, to avoid the strong light that causes the leaves to lose water and shrivel up. After the succulent has been potted (about 1 - 2 weeks), gradually increase the light.  Ventilation Good ventilation speeds up the evaporation of soil moisture and reduces the possibility of root rot. You can put the succulent in a well-ventilated place, such as near a window or a fan, to let the air circulate and help the soil maintain the right humidity. Observe the growth status After turning over the pot and watering, closely observe the succulent's growth status. If the leaves are full and shiny, it means the potting is going well; if the leaves are wrinkled and soft, it may be due to lack of water or the root system has not yet recovered, so don't be in a hurry to water, check the soil dryness and moisture and the root system before making a decision. Common Problems and Solutions What should I do if I water after turning over the pot, and the leaves melt? This is most likely due to overwatering or poor ventilation. Immediately stop watering, remove the succulent from the pot, and check the root system for rot. If the root system is rotted, cut off the rotted part, sterilize it, and repot it in dry soil and put it in a ventilated place to dry out. I haven't been watering since I turned the pot over and my succulent leaves are badly wrinkled? When the succulent leaves are badly wrinkled, it means that it has been dehydrated. You can use a spray bottle to spray water on the soil surface and around the plant to increase the air humidity, and then water a little bit in small quantities to make the soil slightly moist after the leaves have recovered a little.   Start the journey of revitalizing your succulent after repotting Repotting is a great opportunity to revitalize your succulent, and mastering the watering techniques after repotting can make this “new life” go more smoothly. The One Bloom not only provides high quality succulent-specific repotting soil, but also a wide range of pots that are suitable for different varieties of succulents, so your succulent has a comfortable “new home”. From pot turning to watering, treat every step with care, and you will find that the succulents will reward you with full leaves and vigorous growth. Take action now and give your succulent a complete “new look”!

Imagina que acabas de seleccionar cuidadosamente unas adorables suculentas en el centro de jardinería y estás emocionado por llevártelas a casa. Después de colocarlas en hermosas macetas, te surge una pregunta crucial: ¿Necesitan agujeros de drenaje? ¡La respuesta es un sí rotundo! Analicemos por qué los agujeros de drenaje son esenciales para el crecimiento saludable de las suculentas. Agujeros de drenaje: el "salvavidas" de las suculentas Las suculentas son fáciles de cuidar porque sus hojas y tallos pueden almacenar grandes cantidades de agua, lo que les permite prosperar en ambientes secos. Sin embargo, esto no significa que les guste estar "empapadas en agua". Si la maceta no tiene agujeros de drenaje, el exceso de agua de cada riego no puede escapar y se acumula en el fondo. Con el tiempo, la tierra permanece constantemente húmeda, impidiendo que las raíces respiren adecuadamente y provocando la pudrición radicular. Una vez que se produce la pudrición radicular, el crecimiento de la planta suculenta se detiene, las hojas se vuelven blandas y flácidas, y en casos graves, la planta entera puede marchitarse y morir. A muchas personas les gusta colocar suculentas en balcones y alféizares, o usarlas como decoración de interiores. Ya sea en la soleada California o en la diversa Nueva York, instalar agujeros de drenaje es crucial para el cuidado de las suculentas. Los agujeros de drenaje aseguran que el exceso de agua se drene rápidamente, manteniendo la tierra bien aireada y creando un entorno de crecimiento saludable para el sistema radicular de la planta. ¿Qué pasa si no hay agujeros de drenaje? Si ya has comprado una maceta sin agujeros de drenaje pero aún así quieres usarla para suculentas, hay algunos métodos que puedes probar: Perforación de agujeros: Use un taladro eléctrico o herramientas especiales para cerámica para perforar con cuidado varios agujeros pequeños en el fondo de la maceta. Asegúrese de usar gafas de seguridad y guantes para evitar que los residuos salgan despedidos. Añade una capa separadora de agua: Coloca una capa de bolitas de arcilla, grava o corteza de pino en el fondo de la maceta. Estos materiales crean un espacio de drenaje, permitiendo que el exceso de agua se acumule debajo y se separe de las raíces. Sin embargo, este método es solo una solución temporal y no puede sustituir por completo la función de los agujeros de drenaje. Método de anidación: Plante la suculenta en una maceta pequeña con agujeros de drenaje y luego coloque esta maceta dentro de una maceta decorativa sin agujeros de drenaje. Después de regar, drene rápidamente el agua acumulada en la maceta exterior para evitar el encharcamiento. Consejos de cuidado Además de asegurarse de que la maceta tenga orificios de drenaje, algunos detalles de cuidado pueden ayudar a que su suculenta prospere: Elige la tierra adecuada: Usa tierra especializada para suculentas, que suele ser una mezcla de turba, perlita y vermiculita, que ofrece un excelente drenaje y aireación. También puedes prepararla tú mismo mezclando tierra de grano grueso y turba en proporciones específicas. Controle el riego: Siga el principio de "regar abundantemente cuando esté seco". Espere a que la tierra esté seca antes de regar y riegue hasta que el agua salga por los agujeros de drenaje. Puede determinar si necesita riego observando el estado de las hojas. Si las hojas se marchitan y se ablandan, es señal de deficiencia de agua. Proporcionar suficiente luz solar : La mayoría de las suculentas prosperan con la luz solar, requiriendo al menos de 4 a 6 horas de luz al día. Sin embargo, durante el intenso sol del mediodía en verano, es recomendable proporcionar algo de sombra para evitar que las hojas se quemen. En resumen, los agujeros de drenaje sirven como una "puerta de entrada a la vida" para las suculentas, previniendo eficazmente el encharcamiento y la pudrición de las raíces, manteniéndolas sanas y vibrantes. La próxima vez que plantes suculentas, ¡no olvides dejar un agujero de drenaje en la maceta! Si tienes otros consejos para el cuidado de las suculentas, compártelos en la sección de comentarios para que todos podamos cultivar estas adorables plantitas regordetas y vibrantes.